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996 Ducati 996 Battery

Discussion in '748 / 916 / 996 / 998' started by yev, Apr 1, 2015.

  1. hi guys , just pulled out battery from my 996 , here it is on the pix. it is 150x130x70

    trying to find replacement, but looks like nearest replacement is YB12B-4 , is it correct?
    or would any battery 12 v same dims work? i am confused... IMG_0185.JPG
     
  2. Unsurprisingly it looks like your battery has been changed at some time, I think the originals are by Yuasa. Their web site states YT12B-BS
    Yuasa Batteries - Vehicle Type Search

    Different manufacturers use slightly different designations. Look for 12volt (v) 10 amp hour (ah) and the highest cold crank amps (CCA) you can.
     
  3. The ST4S workshop manual says: Standard supplied battery FIAMM Type F12-12B. But the Yuasa will certainly do the job and is probably better.
    Not heard of Numax, they state ST4S so it should do the job, but its your call.
    From my experience you will normally by supplied the battery dry, they will include an acid pack for you to put in and then seal the battery for life with the top plate. So if you dont want to piss about with acid your probably best buying from a local dealer and get them to do it for you.
     
  4. sorry, mine is not st4s, i have standard 996b
     
  5. I would go for Yuasa, if you want budget then go Motobatt - the really cheap batteries tend to be just that, cheap...
     
  6. Second going for Yusasa, the cheap battery route doesn't work. Avoid Dynavolt in particular as they can go flat even using an Optimate or similar, they hold the voltage but the cranking amps die off to the point where it won't turn over enough.

    Gel type batteries can go "rouge" and short out internally. I had one go on my 998 and it wouldn't stop turning over despite no starter being pressed and with the ignition off!!!, luckily I pulled the side panel off and disconnected it just as the wiring was starting to get a bit hot.

    Yuasa seem to be able to stand up to periods of just being left charged and then a quick top up on a trickle charger or battery keeper keeps them boosted, better still if you have no drains on the system like an alarm.
     
  7. Old post, I know, but...that had nothing to do with a "rogue " battery. That was simply the contacts of your starter relay sticking. Possibly caused by overheating if, for example, the starter button had stuck. Seen that before on a mate's bike - it sat there cranking with no key in the ignition. Tapping the relay can free it. The relay best be replaced afterwards though as the contacts are probably knackered. Being paranoid about such things, I wired in an LED to my starter motor, so I know it's not stuck spinning aftet the engine has fired up.
     
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