Anybody know what pressure the system runs at.........searched the manuals and Interweb but no specs found.
Doh!..............'1.1' on the label stuck on the radiator cap is the pressure (bar) and not the coolant/water ratio! 1.1bar = 16psi
Arrgh!....what to do??!!.....who do you believe?? Dealer says the radiator had a weap from around one of the lugs on the side of the radiator - rad replaced for a new one (don't ask the cost!!!!!!!!!) but when I have the removed radiator looked at to see if a repair was possible - on thorough testing no leak was found. Hmmm, could the apparent leak from the rad have been spillage? Coolant system must have been emptied/refilled at least 3 times - left engine cover replaced........leaky water pump hose diagnosed on rebuild, removed and replaced.....not the hose, now diagnosed as the seal between the steel insert and the water pump housing cover that the hose attaches to......water pump cover replaced. The testing involved submersion of the radiator in a water tank for several minutes, all inlets/outlets sealed, with air pumped into the radiator to a pressure of 20psi, some 4psi higher than the max operating pressure of the cooling system (radiator cap bypass rated at 16psi). The test having been conducted at higher pressure than the operating specification of the radiator and with the testing medium being air rather than a liquid i.e. more likely to find any 'escape' route than a liquid, the conclusion that the radiator is sound is conclusive......or is it??!! Hacked off of Weston :Arghh:
If you had to pay for the radiator Andy, I would be back to the dealer and asking them for your money back (parts and labour). It sounds like they are diagnosing by parts replacement rather than doing a proper job. Testing with air is ok, but to test it properly you should fill it with a fluid with a fleurescent dye in it.
Well by chance I spoke to one of the guys I get on with really well at the Dealers......he 'witnessed' the the technician getting the service manager to have a look at my rad, wiping drips of coolant off and it reappearing - this with engine running and up to temperature. Weird as it is that the test I had done showed no leak I have to assume that having the fairing brackets attached was maybe 'stressing' the lugs or temperature 'opening' up a tiny fracture or maybe even vibration having an effect (or any combination of these) So, apologies to the Dealer for doubting them.........and I have a new (rather expensive!) part on the bike. I'll strip the paint from around all four lugs on the old rad and then get a welding expert on the job to build up a good weld (braise?) around them......sooner or later someone rebuilding a crashed bike will be after a rad (I hope!)
