I've just completed the modifications I wanted to do and those that a few of my DF forum friends suggested.. Well worth the extra time.. It's now a one way sealed system, grit comes up from the sealed tub below, through the gun and down onto an aluminimum litho plate with a large funnel below, down the funnel and back to the tub.. I was going to make the alum plate, funnel shaped, but, to be honest most goes down and away on its own and that which dosn't can be quickly brushed into the pipe by lifting the hinged grill and simply brushing it away.. Have cut out and fitted a glass panel in the lid, sticking the glass via some sticky number plate pads.. Fitted a right hand glove now too, and placed the gun in the box... " Sandblast 2 "the sequel is available from all good B&Q stores, tickets start at £20.... Sand box with extra hand and glass panel fitted.. Lid up, grille down.. Gun inside now! " This is a Clint Clarke, 45 blast gun, capable of blowing your painted wig off, ...feeling lucky punk?" Aluminium plate fitted and funnel below.. Sealed tub with grit pick up pipe and exhaust... ( sorry, not a termi) Total cost £30.. Any advice just ask.. N@@DS
I've now blasted a complete engine, can use glass beads on delicate areas or I use the very fine block paving sand from builders merchants, £10 for big bag.. Just make sure it's dry... I've also now found it runs a million times better if you plumb a copper pipe as the sand pick up pipe instead of the rubber one which comes with the gun.. With rubber pipe the sand sticks in the inside of pipe occasionally.. Metal, no sticking.. I've now replaced mine with a flexible metal water pipe, the type plumbers use under a kitchen sink.. Flexs but does not stick... Recycles sand, light weight box, which when not in use can still store items.. Stack away out of way, cheap, runs superb.. Friend paid £50 a Ellie ago to have a few parts stripped.. I've saved hundreds now! If you like a satin finish, finish up using bicarbonate soda.. £1.39 for large bottle.. Recycle that too... N@@DS
Well done, looks like a great piece of kit and so much more impressive to build your own than go out and buy one!
The photo of that engine casting shows just why it's best not to paint them...........the sand-cast finsh is almost the same as the 80's Guzzi engine castings........clean them with Gunk and a quick scrub over. After all, we surely remember what the early Jap castings were like when they lacquered them........more damage done to the ally by water getting under the lacquer than just leaving them bare.
Great buildup. I might just make one of these. I need a compressor though. Something small and practical. I know zero about them.
I could be really pedantic and dispute your statement for accuracy in terms of pure physics, but i wont. Its Monday morning.... What I meant to say is I know nothing about them in terms of products on the market and what size i should consider for my small garage.
Compressor wise.. Mine is. 2 hp which is just about ok.. But the pressure does drop off quickly so the comp has to work hard to keep up.. Next time I shall look for a bigthrobber approx 4 hp..
This is the one I got cost just over. £100 del to the door... Worth every penny too.. You would need a water trap too as water and sand are only good for sand castles ... Bought an engine stand off them too for £40 del to door.. Don't know how they do it... Below is my swingarm etc.. Everything was stripped bare and then I re painted and lacquered.. All done in my B&Q box.. Ps blast gun, bargain of the year new from machine mart £17...
To run totally effectively you would need something like a 3 hp compressor and at least a 50 litre tank. I use a 3 hp two stage two cylinder compressor for when I do the very odd bit of blasting and it starts to run down very quickly, eventually running on what is know as FAD, free air delivery, this is the maximum the compressor will run at whilst not being able to fill the tank with "spare" air, it just about copes at that point. A smaller compressor may mean you have to stop to let it catch up and produce enough pressure to start the job again. For sand you need Kiln dried sand, which is what block pavers use. This is sand that has been fully dried so that it flows freely.
Yes that's exactly how I see it.. My comps fine but slows the operation a bit as it's playing catch up...the block paving sand is what I use too.. Way cheaper than buying grit.. I find the wifes Neff Oven great for drying the sand if it's a little damp.. Spread it on a flat baking tray.. Pop it in the oven at 200 degrees for about 10 mins and there you have it , perfect, ready for the B&Q box.. Bonne petite... Just make sure all evidence is cleaned up.. I thought I had!!!! *#*##<
You can't beat the Kiln dried sand for doing a decent job, it goes off a bit after a few uses but then it becomes useful for doing finer work that doesn't want or need aggressive grit. I use my old grit for lining my Chiminea so I really do get great value out of a bag. It's also good for tumbling parts as well, I made a parts tumbler out of a spit rotisserie from a barbecue and filled it with some sand, rice! and dried pasta! Great for all those fine bits, I did a couple of sets of 748 injectors like that and they came up much better than I first hoped.
Antonye.. I will have to forgive you, for your lucky enough not to actually know me.. Your logical idea is far too muchly sensible for me... Needs must and all that!
