I had a really good ride yesterday, about 100 miles in the sunshine. Decided to make the most of the warm weather and go to work on it today. However, only got about a mile from home and smoke began billowing up from the front end. Pulled over, switched it off - no visible major oil escapes. Struck it up again and headed homeward, the smoke began again and a few sparks too, so I hit the kill switch and coasted as far as I could. The remaining push home was not too bad apart from one small incline which certainly made me sweat. Anyway, please advise what is the present up to date, go to unit to replace my 25 year old Newtronic Systems item which was fitted after the original failed at 33,000 miles?
Hi mate, I had the same happen to me about a year ago. Apparently they are seen as a ‘consumable’ part but it still made me panic when I saw the sparks! I bought this one and have had no problems at all (touch wood). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38278466...GRNhCFcRYa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Sorry to read - I hope this is only the Reg unit failing, as failure of the unit can be brought on by poor continuity in loom wires and connectors within the charge and power supply circuits. While checking everything, have a careful look at both the regulator and alternator connector plugs/terminals for corrosion/overheating/melting.
98 SPS, I am currently gathering bits to replace with Shindengen FH020AA. I have the regulator and connectors off ebay. Need some cable. If you do research the kits offer 10 gauge cable. I was going to drop down to 12 but that's my choice just need to double check that though. I need a 30A fuse also, and a crimp tool. Have a search there are posts on Ducati.MS. I sure others will reccommed other types of regulator. Just make sure you get OEM not cheap copy, but saying that I think I picked mine up for about £35. They are on different bikes I got mine from a Triumph Street Triple, or just searchc any regulators on ebay and look at the pictures. Cheers Gaz
there are many threads concerning conversion to Shindengen/Mosfet replacement on this Forum also Gaz.. will try and find for O.P. if necessary.
Yes on here as well, sorry Chris. I think I saw someone replacing with SH775 which is the Series type but think they are a bit more expensive, again be carefull of fakes. Cheers Gaz
Bought a low mileage Multistrada one for mine and some Triumph leads off ebay coupled with a home made ally plate because the mounts dont line up and fitted to my M900
I fitted one of these and it's been fine so far. The charge light in the instrument cluster works. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/31484999...4bMcivvQjLcvcpSp72Nr|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:4429486
I just replaced my 916 Reg/Rect with a shindengen. I think I have a spare, brand new Triumph R/R wiring loom on the shelf if you need one - one of these..
Hopefully this one won't take 10 years to get fully on the road ;-) TBF I must be all out of 'life events' to throw spanners in the works, and have dropped my work hours to 30/week so have a bit more time to get stuff done. Just no money
Hi Hindsight, I will defer to Pict as his project sounds more likely to commence than my repair. I reckon it will be some time in the spring when I hope to get a day for bike fettling. The endless list that currently seems to take up all my weekends rarely includes any spanner time.
Lindsay - I think I'm due up in Arbr next month, will check and drop you a DM to see if you're available.
Spanner Time has arrived. The alternator wires just look aged rather than overheated, resistance between them of 0.5ohms which is the same as the reading on my spare engine, so hopefully the alternator is not fried. Talking of spares, in my pile of 900 stuff is an Electrex RR51, which appears to be in good condition. As it is effectively free, Is there any good reason why I should not use it rather than buying the Mosfet unit recommended earlier in this thread. If it is a decent reliable unit, could someone advise what to do with the black and red wires from the bike's loom other than tape them up, as the Electrex red wire goes directly to the battery according to their website but my Haynes manual wiring diagram shows the original unit red wire joining to a black & red wire feeding to the fuse box and from there, most of the bike's electrics.
On my conversion (900ie motor into 900 carb bike) I've kept the red wire as its got the 30a fuse attached to the battery / airbox and then run a new black wire to the battery negative. I've also cut off the connector and hard wired the RR cable to the loom so there's only one connector and that at the RR itself.
