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1199 Ducati Track Fairings - Fitting Phots

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by Monners, Sep 1, 2015.

  1. Fitted these last week and thought it might be useful to peeps if I took a few photos as they do not come with any instructions.

    ~£500 for the full kit from Ducati through the nice men at Snell Performance. Seems a bargain as aftermarket kits are often more expensive and do not come with the blanking plates and electrical connectors. Belly pan can be bought seperately if you're going racing.

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    #1 Monners, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2015
  2. I forgot to take pictures of the main fairings but I can say they are all identical to the stock fairings. It might just be me imagining it but they seemed very slightly thicker.

    These are all the extra Ducati parts you get for the front. I forgot to take pictures of the rear light blanking plates.

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    LED light blanking plastics with the stock LED light below. Worth noting they dont supply any of the clips for the fairings and the two bolts you need to assemble these three parts are not removeable on the light unit so you need to get some yourself. I had a couple that fitted lying around in the tool box.
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    Electrical blanking connectors. Without them you get the engine warning light on the dash, as I found out after forgetting to fit one in the tail!
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    Mirror blanking plates are something silly like £80 plus quid on there own from Ducati so it makes the fairing pack good value getting them with it.
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    #2 Monners, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2015
  3. Fitting the main fairings is easy so I didn't bother taking pictures. Only advice for someone that hasn't done it is to remove the bottom ones first then when you do the top fairings you need to be careful to not snap fixings on the upper side. Safest way is to always remove the plastics around the ignition hole first but I usually dont bother if I'm at the track and only remove the body fairings. In that case do it by first unclipping the small finger of fairing around the electics at the top rear and then twisting the fairing slightly anti-clockwise to slide it off the hook of the black ignition plastics.

    The tail is also self explanitory. Just remove the seat cover, then the side panels remembering to take the cable out of the key barrel. There's a plug here that needs a blanking connector to prevent getting the engine warning messages on the dash (I forgot it!).

    The nose cone is not so straight forward so I took a bunch of pictures as I did it. I dont have a definate best way as I was very much trial and error but I think I know the way I will do it next time so that's what I'll go through here. Here's the stripped bike:
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    #3 Monners, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2015
  4. EDIT -
    The best order to do the front in is something like the following:

    - Remove mirrors.
    - Remove the plastics from around the ignition and the side covers that connect to this. Slid the later forward first to unclip from the side fairings and then the front.
    - Take off the top and bottom side fairings.
    - cut the cable ties fastening the wiring loom to the back of the nose fairing on the left side.
    - undo the two screws on the rear of the lights left and right, inside and just forward of the forks.
    - remove the allen bolt underneath the nose, above the mudguard.
    - pull up the nose cone where it plugs into the light unit on a rubber plug.
    - The nose fairing will now pull forward to remove


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    First remove your mirrors by taking out the two bolts and disconnecting the little electrical connectors which are a bit fiddly.
    I then removed the top screen bolts to give the nose cone a bit of flexibility. You cannot get to the bottom ones as they are under the dash screen.

    Remove the ignition surround plastics and you can then see two of the three main nose cone bolts on each side just to the right of the brake lever.

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    Clip the cable tie on the left side wiring loom.
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    #4 Monners, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2016
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  5. The other bolt is on the bottom (the forward most one) and screws into the bottom of the light unit. When you unscrew it , it helps release the plastic catches that clip into the nose cone at the front.

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    This was a real bitch to line up when re-assembling the nose. I did it last but I reckon the best move would be to do it before the upper bolts.
     
  6. Familiarise and assemble the LED light blank next. The four bolts that go into the holes I'm pointing out are not in the stock LED unit so you need to find your own. There were some similar on the side of the LED unit but I couldn't remove them. You can use the little tiny torx screws to go in the top outside part of the blank next to the bigger bolt holes.

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    The assembled unit in the nose cone to see how it goes together. When putting it together the bottom bolt goes through the plastic of the under tray and then up through the hole of the nose cone you can see here and then into the light blanking unit. The light blank needs to be fitted to the bike before the nose cone.
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    #6 Monners, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2015
  7. you need the rubber washers from the original unit and push the supplied round metal things (scientific engineering terms) into the rubbers.

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    Bolt into the headstock through the same washers. The plastic tray you can see here under the blanking unit is the part referred to earlier when the lower bolt holds everything together.
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    Dont forget the little rubber washer that goes in the bottom of the nose cone. Fit the bottom two screen bolts at this point as you cannot get to them easily later.
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    #7 Monners, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2015
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  8. The earlier pictures are from when I re-assembled anyhow so no point me re-posting the same ones.

    I need some more practice to confirm but I think the best way to finish is to slide on the nose cone and do the lower bolt first as this was a right headache to line up. Then do the two side bolts and cable tie the loom wire on the left side.

    The mirror blanking plates are a bit of a fiddle to line up the first few times. Dont forget the rubber that goes onto the headstock frame before bolting through the screen,nose cone and into the blanking plates.
     
    #8 Monners, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2015
  9. Angry Italian doesn't like helping at 0200hrs

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  10. Hi Dave, Looking good matey.

    The Receiver fits in front of the dash by replacing the panel marked in the photo below.

    The GPS receiver wire connects to the wiring loom arrowed.

    You need then to enable it in the dashboard options section.

    here is the link to the downlod for the software required to access the DDA USB data stick dda.prosa.com Royals GPS Plug.jpg Royals GPS.jpg
     
  11. Is this a ducati performance part? Might be intrested in the fairing package for trackdays.
     
  12. Thanks Dave, thats great. I've put off buying the DDA for a while so looking forward to four days playing with it in Almeria :)
     
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  13. Sexy time! Finally managed to find a rear wheel to go with the spare front that I already have :)

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    And the Ducati Data Analyser arrived from Snell Performance this morning as well.

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  14. A lad on Facebook offered to do some painting so I dropped these fairings off to him earlier. Going to pick them up again tomorrow in Ducati Red :)

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  15. Stack of sexy rubber turned up for Almeria on the 3rd as well :)

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  16. Oz piegas !! Nice rims mate I've just bought some for my other bike. They are amazing.
     
  17. Only one unfortunately as I already had a spare front wheel but yes it's beautiful :)
     
  18. I didn't get a chance to take a daytime Phot but the track fairings are looking great and for a bargain cost of materials plus a little beer money :) you can tell up close its not a pro job but otherwise they look awesome.

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  19. We dropped the bikes off with the Focused events guys this morning. Check out Jases epic Ute! Can't wait to get to Almeria :)

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