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1299 2.5k To Spend On A Base 1299????

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by Nickhi1299, Mar 25, 2017.

  1. Right you fine people! I have 2.5k to spend and not sure what route to go down, maybe just end cans for now (do they really make a difference??) A TTX rear shock with a suspension set up and some more Carbon bling bling!! A few people's views would be great???
     
  2. Tyres and track time.
     
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  3. yep.

    Don't waste money on an exhaust - you'll never get past any UK circuit noise tests -even with baffles in.

    Rear shock worth doing

    Biggest bang for buvk in terms of seconds per lap - carbon fibre wheels. they've come down in price from around £3,500 5 years ago to £2000 now. Faster acceleration (more than the 5hp an exhaust will give you), better braking and faster turning
     
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  4. Definitely a rear shock and suspension set up! Don't waste money on pipes, as others have said it's just not worth it at the mo! U could probably get some OZ Lightweight wheels and an Ohlins ttx shock for that budget which would transform the bike


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  5. Suspension suspension suspension!
     
  6. I'd go for carbon wheels, best mod I've done and makes the biggest difference and then change the rear shock at a later date.

    Lighter wheels means the shock doesn't have to work as hard
     
  7. Suspension. Ttx shock, decent cartridge kit up front. Or even look at biturbo kit, bit less cost than ohlins but most who use them say they are as good :upyeah:
     
  8. suspension and wheels
     
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  9. Mupo getting some great reviews too. I have a race shicknon my triumph. A grand, so similar cash to an ohlins
     
  10. Upgraded adjustable Ohlins steering damper was my best mod on my base model.

    Essential for fast road riding.

    The standard damper was shite in my opinion.
     
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  11. Are upgrades for track or road?
    For track id get race fairings and tyre warmers. The bike is awesome as it is and standard stuff will be more than capable.

    For road you're looking at bling which is personal. Carbon bits, chain adjusters You name it it's available for panigale.
     
  12. id go suspension first as said ohlins or maxton are as good now, really does make a difference with good suspension. Wheels after will enhance the the suspension if you can afford them in the future.
     
  13. Just started down this path with a 1299, so far;

    - OZ GASS rs-a wheels
    - DP Fairings (2015 WSBK rep)
    - DP Seat
    - DP Screen
    - DP Filler Cap
    - DP Brake Guard
    - Brembo RCS Master Cylinder
    - Brembo Clutch Lever
    - Progrips
    - Ohlins TTX Rear
    - Ohlins Steering Damper
    - 520 pitch chain
    - 15 tooth front & 41 tooth rear (extra acceleration, less top end)

    To do;
    - Air Filter
    - DP Rearsets
    - Lithium Battery
    - Ohlins Front Forks
    - Triple Clamps
    - Superleggera Carbon Mudguards
    - Brembo GP Billet Monoblocks
    - Brembo Rear Caliper
    - Uprated Discs
    - Pierobon Subframe

    God knows why I'm bothering, never modified anything before and have got the bug BIG time.

    After that it'll be engine out, blueprint and go hunting for more grunt.

    Shame the exhaust options mean you can't really track them with anything other than the OEM system. Fancy a D155/D156 system with carbon cans.

    Good luck with your project - it gets addictive.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Thanks for all the feedback.
    I've got the Ohlins steering damper straight away! Got some carbon bits as well! Really want the TTX rear shock and full set up! See how the fronts perform then more then likey change them. Also pretty much changed all the nuts and bolts to Titanium thats a mission!
    Just changed the front -1 and rear sprocket. I maybe do around 4-5 track days a year!
    I hear a few people get their standard exhaust cored out anyone on here done it? Think Exhaust system will be my last thing possibly as their all silly money.
     
  15. Suspension would be the most worthwhile way to spend that money followed by lightweight wheels as thats where the corners have been cut with the base model and it's not that great. Everything else is bling and shiny ways to spend your cash.
     
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  16. Suspension, but unless you have an ohlins fetish, see what someone like ktech will do for your money.... there is a reason why so many tt bikes use their kit....
     
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  17. You seam to be on the same path as me. I'm not a shiny trinket type of guy. If it makes it faster/smoother then I'm up for it. What I've done so far
    1) de-cat. = £0.00 but about 3hrs work
    2) remove the exhaust valve & servo =£0.00 little louder but way smoother
    3) throttle spacers = £30 wow should have been done in the factory!
    4) ohilins ttx gp rear shock + ohilins fork inserts =£1200 found second hand with very little use, tell you how they work at the weekend lol (also setup by a suspension guru)
    5) next on the list are a pair of bst wheels. =£2400. Going from recommendations singularly the most performance per £ you can get.

    I don't really want to change the exhaust as I want the bike to pass sound tests at the track. And to honest it doesn't really need more power. Just me to ride smoother and faster..

    Good luck with it all. Love mine to bits to coin a phrase "it's a jizz machine" lol
     
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  18. if your going for the suspension route i can recommend nitron shocks there great value for money.
     
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  19. Martin you got any more info on the decat and exhaust valve removal?
     
  20. Its quite simple..
    I removed the silencer from the bike Then did a little googleing to find the location of the cat chamber, i then slit it open with a slitting disk on the grinder.. The cat is right in front of you, the hard bit is getting it out! I drilled the center out and collapsed it in on itself. Once its out and all cleaned, I Tig welded it all back together, purge welding it to stop any porosity. I repainted it in VHT satin black, acid cleaned the Ali parts and re fitted it all.

    As for the exhaust Valve.... The Servo is located near the cooling fan at the bottom of the motor, i just unclipped the control cable from the valve, its springs open as its default setting. then unpluged it and just put it in the box with the rest of the redundant parts.

    Its all quite simple.... If you not able to do the De-Cat i dont mind doing it for you, i'd just charge the time it takes.


    Hope that helps

    PS i'll be sticking it on the Dyno soon to smooth out the fuel curve, I'll let you know how that goes.
     
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