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Painting Pipes

Discussion in 'Detailing and cleaning' started by Cream_Revenge, Nov 21, 2016.

  1. Evening

    Anyone have any experience or advice on painting exhaust pipes. Thinking satin black but tricky to find, most is matt.

    Obviously it needs to be VHT/stove/engine /exhaust specific.

    Any brands work well or all just fade/flake?

    I know it can coated but that's running about £200.

    TIA.
     
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  2. It works fine on M/S. I was not too fussy about prep either. Just gave them a quick going over and clean with solvent. If you are painting stainless results might be different but why would you. I'd probably have stainless blasted and ceramic coated if I was to..

    I use to paint my race exhaust every year.
    It does fade a little but not in a bad way still looks tidy and my headers would have got plenty hot as they did not have the same air flow as a bike and the motor was at 100% much much longer than any pro super bike rider would be on it...

    I think I used either Hycote or Simoniz, was just basic very hi temp exhaust paint from car shop. It's quite thin so a few coats.

    I think the factory use to just oil the pipes and let it burn off. They were very thin gauge and occasionally they would crack a weld, the manufacturers were at race meeting so they could tig them in the paddock, they were against... anything that made repairs more difficult or inspection. I.e. ceramic on exhausts or powercoat on chassis.

    I'd use ceramic on an exhaust as other teams did when looking for that last 1/10th of a second.... it helps to keep everything a bit cooler.
     
  3. Pretty much as above here too. The heat spray tends to last a year before it bugs you with the fade and ceramic coating is probably the way to go if you intend to keep the bike for quite a while.

    The other option of course is to replace as much of the system as you can with stainless replacements
     
  4. I'm fitting cheap stainless front pipe to my blade from fleabay.. an aftermarket replacement part not a race exhaust.

    It seems to weigh a tonne to me, so when I get the stock one off I will weight them both. I also want to check the pipe diameters are not smaller i.d. just incase.

    Kills several birds.. wont rust. Gets rid of the cat and 02 sensor.. so with slip on and powercommander + few other tweaks will be a bit more responsive.

    I don't plan to keep it so not buying a full system, just want rid of the lag. It needs an ecu flash (ign timing) but need to draw the line somewhere.

    It's actually ok stock the more I ride it... it's just not like a race engine which is probably a good thing.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
     
  5. Watch out for galvanic corrosion where mild meets stainless, usually bracket bolts etc on bikes
     
  6. PJ1 is great always used it on my 350 ypvs, 350lc head, barrels and exhaust, i sprayed my spare lc heads with it at xmas gave me something to do :)

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. If using gloss coat it in satin first.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. I've just had these Hyper coated,good for temps up to 700'C
    $116 nz about 50 quid.including postage.Garanteed for three years,so no more hand polishing with wet and dry paper.

    IMG_5581.JPG

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  9. We use Wurth Matt exhaust paint, really good coverage and finish.

    Their black gloss is also excellent (none heatproof though).
    wu0001_wm.jpg
     
  10. B&q barbeque paint,works a treat far cheaper than big name paints!
     
  11. Did you paint yours @Cream_Revenge? Think i may have a shot at spraying mine this weekend, is the barbecue paint serious, does it work/look good?
     
  12. I did BBQ paint on GSXR and looked OK, only done a few hundred mls though.

    On T9 I ended up getting it shot blasted then I polished. Shot blasting was NOT a good idea. Got the crap off a treat but was a bitch to polish back up............You live and learn huh.
     
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