1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

1995 900ss Renovation

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by 900ss'er, Jun 7, 2016.

  1. I bought a very tatty 900ss in September last year as a 'winter' project. Several months have passed and I've finally finished stripping the bike down. I've got boxes full of stuff, all carefully labelled, and about a million photos of each stage of the dismantling. Here's what it looks like now.
    I need to get the frame blasted and repainted (is stove enamelling best?) and I need to very painstakingly remove all of the crappy old gold paint off the engine somehow (Nitromors? Dremel and a fine brass brush? Magic?). I really don't want to strip the engine down so I think blasting of any description is out of the question. Then I'll need to repaint it, and could do with some ideas about what sort of primer and paint other folks have used.
    I'd appreciate any thoughts please
    Thanks!

    P1010282.JPG

    P1010274.JPG

    P1010292.JPG
     
    • Like Like x 1
  2. FWIW, I stripped my engine cases with Nitromors (although it's a bit weak these days), and burnished the alloy with a stainless steel-wired "toothbrush" - didn't paint it at all - gets a wipe over once a year, and its still fine.

    Sent from my P01M using Tapatalk
     
    • Like Like x 2
  3. Use etch primer on cases and side covers. On barrels and heads use high temp primer then high temp paint. Make sure surfaces are grease free! If you see my thread on my similar rebuild I got my frame done in black enamel. I also used flame proof VHT paint on the heads temp resistent to over 1000 degrees C meant for manifolds.

    Best way to clean old stuff off is aquablasting. It can be done with the engine complete, has to be well sealed though. Best to dismantle however if you are using media, otherwise strong paintstripper. It'll take you a while with a dremel or similar, good luck.
    I have gone through same process but engines been split and sand blasted in my cabinet. Cases were fine so they are factory finish.
     
    • Like Like x 3
  4. I like the gold heads!

    I had my engine stripped then got to work on the separate bits. I used paint stripper and a dremmel for most of them. I had the heads dipped in an industrial process. This was a lot of work, but I wanted different colours on different bits.

    If you are keeping the engine complete, then lots of dremmeling (buy the brushes in bulk - i went through about 15-20)

    Once you have removed the powdery bits, I used etch primer and auto paint on the cases. I used VHT paint on the barrels and heads only.

    Get the frame dipped then powder coated...

    Good luck
     
    • Like Like x 2
  5. Thanks for the useful tips.
    As far as I'm aware the engine is sound (I rode the bike 270 miles home when I picked it up), so I'm wondering what you folks would advise me to check mechanically while I have the engine out. I'm intending to do the usual service stuff including belts and valve clearances, but what else should I be looking at/checking/replacing? Thanks!
     
  6. Seeing as you're engine is the same vintage as mine, check the cylinder head studs, I've just had one let go on my front cylinder. :rage:

    Modified studs are black, and apparently have an 'o' stamped on the end. Check the oil for any debris, especially any aluminium shavings, could be a sign of the crank shaft oil galley plug backing out

    Check the belt pulley bearings run freely and are not notchy. If you've got the heads off I'd also look to replace the valve stem seals, its a fidily job but well worth doing especially if the bike has been sitting around.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. I got my motor soda blasted and have just given it a brighten up with 400 grade Wet & Dry. I powder coated frame and wheels - really happy with the results (a good powder coater is important)
    I've got another 900SS I'm just starting a strip down on, I'll powder coat this frame too but might treat the motor to paint to get it looking OEM. alternatively, ceramic coating looks brilliant, but its expensive - It would have to be a keeper to make it worthwhile ;)

    Here's the frame powdercoated silver on No.1 900SS:

    [​IMG]

    and the wheels

    [​IMG]

    Here's the true glory of the motor on No.2 900SS yet to be done:

    [​IMG]

    and
    [​IMG]
     
  8. How much are the modified studs? I ask as I've just imported a set of the upgraded Califoria Cycleworks ones for someone and was thinking of holding them as a stock item.
     
  9. Nice job. I see you're just up the road in Wiltshire - where did you get the powder coating done?
    Engine on No.2 bike looks er, challenging!
    I'm intending to replace most of my engine allen bolts with new stainless jobbies and so I've been round my engine making sure I can undo them all. A couple are stuck tight (front exhaust valve cover) and I'm on the verge of stripping the allen bolt head. Any thoughts on how to get it out? Are impact drivers any good?
     
  10. I use Steve Turner. Rich at Louigi Moto gets all his coating done there too as do many people from this forum. - TPCS Magnesium and Alloy Refurbishing
    I've always managed to get valve covers out with an allen key after lots of soaking with penetrating oil if stuck, but an impact driver should deffo do the trick.

    Whereabouts are you based?
     
  11. Thanks for that. I'm in West Wellow between Salisbury and Southampton, about 40 miles from TPCS, so I might give them a shout
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. +1 on the VHT paint, and primer. It takes an age to prep, but worth the effort. I found Acetone to be an excellent degreaser.

    100_0981.JPG

    100_0454.JPG
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Funny that - I was think of asking if you did have them and how much would a set cost.
     
  14. Not sure on a final price but I did them as a favour for a fella with no shipping cost etc. I do have a spare set too which are not advertised or priced. I'll drop you a PM.
     
  15. I've just had to buy 4 studs for the Monster engine I've been rebuilding (to put in my SL as it developed a bottom-end issue).
    Luckily the engine seller had already bought 4 to deal with the head that had a snapped stud but with the engine out and the original studs still in place in the other head I thought it sensible to do them all.
    Studs were around £12 each from Ducati.

    On advice by the dealer parts man I bought a top end kit which contained all gaskets needed for the build (bottom end of this engine is being left alone).
    Also bought new nuts for the studs plus the plugs (3 supplied - 2 small ones for the accessible ones plus got 1 larger one for the inaccessible one which we've not dealt with).
    Interestingly 1 of those little plugs was pretty easy to come out - slightly worryingly, 2 new ones installed nice and tight with threadlock.

    One PITA was the fact that most of the top end kit gaskets came in 1 big bag without individual part nos to identify, meaning that we had to spend time working out what went exactly where as with the heads already off some of the o-rings etc were not in place on this engine to easily see their correct location.
     
  16. Cheers, do you know if the studs are improved harder ones or the same as the original ones?
     
  17. Yup, the original ones in the Monster engine (a 1994 I think) are/were shiny non-magnetic material, new ones as supplied were dark brown'ish - those old ones are the ones more prone to snapping.
     
Do Not Sell My Personal Information