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750SS project begins

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by wonky donkey, Apr 11, 2014.

  1. Well, I think I've reached my limit on exhaust polishing for now:[​IMG]

    They're not perfect, and certainly not mirror, but they'll do me and at least they no longer look like they're stored in a pond. :upyeah: I couldn't get the collector polished up particularly well so I gave in and sprayed them with HT paint. I'll see If that lasts.
    [​IMG]

    Meanwhile, I dismantled the rear light and cleaned that out inside. The rear mudguard/undertray has a large crack next to one of the front mounting points. I've glued it up but it looks vulnerable so I'll reinforce it with glass cloth. None to hand at the minute though. Then I'll try and bring the black finish out a bit with boiled linseed oil (worked before, so...).

    Also removed the clocks from the housing and cleaned them out a bit too. I was hoping the glass would be removable, cos the needles have virtually faded away, but no banana unless I'm missing something?
    [​IMG]

    I don't suppose anyone has the plastic "collar"/nut that tightens the trip meter knob to the clock surround going spare do they?

    Oh, and I got one of those texts that makes you smile today - powdercoating's done! It's ridiculous how chuffed the prospect of picking up some newly coated parts can make you. I mean, it's not like I don't know what it'll look like,,:Shamefullyembarrased:

    MICK..
     
    • Like Like x 2
  2. How much to re anodise the forks - what do they do with the dings from stone chips?
     
  3. Dunno, mate. The deal is he'll "put them in with another batch whenever he's got enough". Might get them back this side of 2015... Not sure about chips etc. He told me to leave the bushes inside too as he'd just plug the ends up.

    I'll let you know what it sets me back when I get 'em, but don't hold your breath.

    MICK..
     
  4. Good job on the zorsts, but they will be brown within minutes of firing it up.....that's why mine are silver VHT.

    PS....I have a complete dash with approx 5000 miles on the clock...for the right offer.......
     
  5. There's not really owt wrong with these ones except for the faded needles, AL. Unless I discover later they don't work, I'll stick with them.

    Mick..
     
  6. So I got the frame, wheels, and the rest back from the powdercoaters. I'm pleased with the finish but not with the entire job. The p/c is nice and thin, smooth and even. Lovely sheen on the semi-gloss too, no runs or bubbling, and hardly any powder where there shouldn't be.
    [​IMG]

    But they have blasted just about everything in sight. Some of the bearing seats, the mating surfaces for the discs and inside the fork clamps (in the yokes) have had a very light blasting despite us having the conversation about masking prior to blasting. It really is a light blast, so pretty sure it'll be alright, but disappointing from an experienced coater. Fingers crossed now.

    Meantime I took the engine outside and steam cleaned it
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Immediately looks much better and easier to bring back to a decent finish. It's drying quietly in the corner before I soda blast it.

    A few wee jobs to do for the minute - finish off fixing the cracked rear mudguard, tidy up the front m/c and levers where they're a teeny bit scraped from an off, source all the various bearings and seals I need for the wheels, forks and frame... Feel like some progress has been made now.

    MICK..
     
    • Like Like x 3
  7. Be sure to show us before and after pics with the soda blasting - so many differing stories out there..
     
  8. OK, so had a crack at soda blasting the motor yesterday. Fuck a duck, what a mess that makes! Kinda fun though. Overall, I'd say I'm not as impressed as I'd hoped I'd be, but I think it's achieved what I needed. I'll be painting the motor, not leaving a raw metal finish or polishing so I only really need a decent surface for that. It lifted paint off really easily - should do given how thin it is - but didn't do anything for the oxidised areas of the engine. I reckon if there'd been loose surface material - genuine rust or owt - then it'd have worked on that. Where there's no imperfections, it gives a nice finish actually.

    Anyway, before:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    After:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    You can see on the belt covers the effect it had on the paint down to raw metal (not keeping those so didn't waste me soda on 'em). You can't see the difference too well in the pics actually - it's had a bit more of an effect than it appears from them. Flash doesn't help - it was getting dark by then..

    Motor's back to drying out in a corner again... Next to sand down any rough bits left over, etch prime and then paint (will take the covers off to do this as will put new gaskets in).

    MICK..
     
  9. I repaired the rear mudguard/undertray which had a massive crack across the mounting point. Glued it up first, then laid some glass cloth on it, rubbed down and tidied up. Happy with that:
    [​IMG]

    Sanded a few rough edges down, rubbed the whole thing with linseed oil, leave overnight, wipe off any excess, stick the light unit back on and:
    [​IMG]

    Then, just cos I'm still only about 12 mentally, I fitted the two tank mounting brackets and the rear mudguard to the frame purely so I can say, technically, I've started putting the bike back together...;)
    [​IMG]

    MICK..
     
  10. Any reason the cush rubbers/dampers wouldn't take kindly to being put in the freezer before drifting them into ther rear wheel? I know that's the common approach to bearings, but not done Ducati-style cushes before...

    Cheers,
    MICK..
     
  11. You sir, are a magician.
     
  12. I got my wheels back from the powdercoaters recently. Didn't freeze the cush rubbers before fitting, just smeared a bit of grease on them and drifted them in. They went in a little bit to easy for my liking. Hopefully they'll expand a little with use. Be interesting to see how yours go in wonkey donkey.
     
  13. well, let's just say they were tight, @chard. I did put them in the freezer for a few hours first but they took some thumping in all the same. Hopefully I won't need them out again 'cos I don't think they're coming without a fight..

    MICK..
     
  14. I dropped the gearing on my 750 SS by going to a 14 tooth sprocket. It didn't last long though, I found it too buzzy at speed with just the five speed gearbox and went back to standard.
    Check the tightness of the flywheel nut when you're in there. Mine went loose and I needed to replace the pick ups as a result. Very common problem.
     
  15. Well, it's been a while... My forum account went west, we had a new baby and the like but progress has occurred:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Since the pics above, the wiring is now mostly in, exhausts are being made as we speak, the bodywork is painted (not collected it yet) and the last box of odds and sods I needed has arrived (though no doubt there'll be something I forgot...). Having some trouble with brakes (leaking) and clutch (also leaking), but otherwise largely looking alright.

    MICK..
     
    • Like Like x 5
  16. great stuff mate
     
  17. Welcome back and congrats on the ikle baby :)
     
  18. Top job, wlecome back!
     
  19. looking good keep it up
     
  20. Your progress after having a baby inspires me, keep a watch for my upcoming rebuild ......if it looks half as nice as yours so far I'll be happy. I too got me engine soda blasted cost me £200 but don't think I cleaned it well enough after blasting as the paint didn't last. So gonna have to paint it again...
     
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