848 Starting Problems

If the headlight is staying on then the ECU is either not getting a signal from the starter button (grey body connector pin28, white/blue wire should ground on pressing button) or the lock out conditions are not being met (clutch switch, stand switch, neutral switch).

 

My money still on the side stand switch....

 

• Maybe the side stand switch, as above.

• Starter button

• I once left a lead off my battery and got the same issue. It wasn't one of the main cables, but a smaller one that I had managed to get trapped in the battery box and missed.

 

doesn't it have to be sidestand down and in neutral though Paul? i.e. sidestand switch fail alone will not break the starter circuit? I could be wrong but that's how it works on my earlier/similar bike.

 

yip. check for battery voltage at the starter solenoid then starter itself. you could also quickly check battery earth to engine earth with a jump lead.

 

Nor sure, but if the thing is faulty I know it can stop the ECU allowing it to start. I think because maybe it has no reference rather than an up/down reference.

Ages since I had mine, and TBH it never let me down

 

if circuit is as I thought, then little chance of it being the culprit as neutral sensor circuit would have to fail at the same time, you are getting neutral light come on? - try moving bike back and forward just to confirm even if green neutral light is on.

 

yes, paper clip across the connection. Thats how I had mine for trackdays (stand removed)

 

have you taken the button off? May be worth some contact cleaner in there, especially if its been sat in a garage a while (maybe condensation??)

 

I understand, you are saying a value other than switch on or off would alert ECU all on it's own then?

 

Possibly. I know (didn't a multi on here have it recently?) that if it goes it can cut the engine, but that could be because its running and in gear.

 

What's the deal with the "keysense" aerial doobrie on 848, 1098 etc, does it not allow clocks to power up or fuel pump or starter, ignition etc? How do you know if it's working or not? :Bookworm:

 

Been following this with some interest.

I agree with @Derek 's analysis. I did wonder about the antenna on the keyswitch but I would very much doubt it's that as the immobilzer surely would not allow the fuel pump to run

So you are getting neutral light and the fuel pump runs, so it appears unlikely that it's a permissive
The starter button has been cleaned up and checked...................however have you continuity checked the button or tried to short the button connections on the loom side, I'd do the same for the kill switch.

I'm still thinking switch/assembly at the moment until that is positively ruled out, including the kill switch as that provides what appears to me as the pos voltage to the pilot side of the solenoid.

I'd then check to see if I was getting voltage at the solenoid when the button was pressed, to ensure the solenoid isn't the problem. I know you shorted it but that's not a positive check of the device itself

I'd also try to jump off a car battery without the car engine running, as a desperate attempt to totally rule out the battery.............although that's me clutching at straws

The point is components require to be positively ruled out one at a time

Apologies if you know all this already or have already carried out these checks

John

 

After the "headlight on" test was completed/battery ruled out, it's now a case of getting a clear ignition wiring diagram and working through each component/connector on route to starter with a meter. etc. The many Ducati Forums will get you there in the end @TheAlfa1, Ducati.ms being the most useful one.

 

Damm I forgot about that headlamp test @Chris

I suppose then that it's less than likely to be the solenoid as the lights are not going out when the starter button is pressed suggesting that the ECU is not seeing either all the permissives (as I said previously I think this is unlikely if you are getting a neutral light as that shows the gearbox switch is good & I think that's really all you need)

Have you also checked if you have pos on the Red/Black pilot wire on the solenoid with the ignition on and kill switch set to run? (that's from a 1098 diagram but I'm pretty sure it will be the same)

So as Chris stated going through the whole starter wiring and connectors, I'd still start at the starter & kill switch check that they are getting the voltage they should and short them at the loom side of the plug to test. Then work your way downstream from there to the solenoid

Good Luck and I'd be interested to know how this finally gets resolved it you would be so kind

John