Clutch Slip

That's what I thought. I was confused by the 1st post. :confuse:

 

Installing a slave with a larger bore diameter means you have reduced lever effort but that is at the expense of range of movement of the pushrod, so your drag (elusive neutral) is likely to be down to that.
Perfect bleeding could be the answer, otherwise go back to the standard bore.
Don't know why you'd get slip.
If the slipper clutch is new, maybe the slipping will disappear as the plates bed in.

 

Came with the bike or came on the bike?
If it was already fitted, then swapping the slave shouldn't have affected it, unless the pushrod is somehow not seated properly.
Adding a steel will increase the preload and make your clutch lever that much heavier again.

 

Have you checked all your steel plates as they do come in different thicknesses, you might be able to find one thin enough to change.
Steve

 

If that's the case, there's no point in adding plates.
You could try shimming the slave cylinder out a little or just go back to oem

 

Have you set the clutch pack to the correct thickness. Slipper clutches do judder and sometimes quite badly when the pack is not set correctly.

They need to be set up correctly and with the correct clutch pack thickness and also the correct offset set on the clutch hub, which is roughly about 3.5\3.6mm using a vernier caliper, if I remember correctly.

If you have a ramp and ball setup, which most are apart from the 748R stock clutch, then have you checked and greased the ramp and ball setup accordingly and used the correct molybdenum grease, which is the recommended lubricant for slipper clutches.

Does it use stainless springs? which do not always have the correct lift.

If it has an aftermarket slave cylinder fitted then you may need to check the clutch lift and adjust accordingly on the lever depending on if you use stock or aftermarket levers. Again a vernier gauge will reveal this.

A precise going through of the system and how much minimum lift you get on the installed clutch stack may need to be done. As above some of these problems have been referenced but a slipper clutch fitting is not always a 5 minute installation and often requires some effort to get it right.

Clutch hop and pulsing are part of the nature of a slipper clutch particularly when used on the road.

Final question is, do you really need a slipper clutch?, If not maybe then sell it and use the money to purchase a good road setup using a stock clutch.

I use use a stock clutch on my 748R engined 748S and it is far less trouble than using the 748R setup on the road.

 

0.5/1.0mm is very marginal between a dragging clutch and a slipping one, I wouldn't be happy with that and would prefer the bigger travel of the stock slave cylinder personally.

 

From what we can tell, CR's bike came with an STM slipper already fitted and it was working ok until he fitted an aftermarket slave.
Tend to agree about the slipper. Is it really worth all the extra hassle for road use?

 

If the slave and pushrod between them are preventing the springs and pressure plate from holding the clutch plates together, no steel plain plate is going to help.
A question: Do you have free play in the lever?? You always need s 2-3 mm of free play before pulling the lever starts to press on the pressure plate.

 

Use worn friction plates to help get the correct clutch pack thickness, but make sure they are serviceable and avoid putting them in the centre of the pack as that tends to receive more wear.

As for different thickness steel plates they are available new from Ducati.

Use a vernier caliper to size you plates and to help set the final clutch pack height.

I have done this several times on slipper clutches and stock items and this method has always worked for me.

Work patiently and methodically and you should achieve the correct result but it is unlikely the clutch will ever be as totally smooth as a stock clutch.