Hi all, I know my bike is having some electric fault, as the rpm needle goes like crazy, every now and then. I tested the reg/rec for contunuity and everything works, went on to the alternator wire and had no reading from the plug, however I am not sure I used the correct settings on my multimeter. I moved on to the battery, which was indicating 15 volts (!?!?!?) .. plugged the bike on to the battery optimizer and the next day it started normally, although it does struggle to start on a regular basis. This bike was sitting in a garage for years until this past spring, where I serviced it, changed timing belts, plugs, oil & filter, fuel filter, all fluids, new clutch, then I left it in a garage until a few weeks ago. So I cannot tell whether I made a mistake somewhere or if it was like this before as it's been so long (about 6/7 years). today I decided to take a look at the plugs, and did not really like what I found: I headed on to checking the throttle bodies, especially on the vertical cylinder (the one where the dark plug comes from) and here's what I saw: hope you can see it, on the valve to the left you will see black stains, which seem to me like oil residues (but can be mistaking) .. maybe from a worn oil seal? would this possibly be causing the plug's state? here's the horizontal cylinder for comparison, both valves are clean:
As I wanted to make sure there was no problem with the coils I went on and checked the primary winding resistance, the manual states 495 to 606 ohms at 20 degrees, I had 1,5 (200) on both coils, but again I am not sure of the settings on my multimeter (see below) as well as the secondary winding resistance, for which the specs are 6-66 to 8.14 k-ohms at 20 degrees, and my tester showed 3.25 on both coils (see below) ...what am I doing wrong? why everytime I have to use the multimeter I always have weird results? p.s.: are these wires ok?
Just looking at the mechanical side for starters, when was the last time you rode it regularly? It's possible that one of the valve stems is leaking a little more oil than ideal, but this could improve when you go for a ride - i.e. the lengthy standing period certainly won't have helped. I think it's possible that a few of the maladies that you are seeing will disappear with regular use. EDIT just seen your other thread – it would probably have been best to stick to one to avoid confusion/repetition.
looks like you have it on the wrong setting for the primary. put it up to 2k. always check you leads before you start also. touch em together. make sure getting pretty much zero.
If that's corrosion on the HT terminal inside the plug leads throw them away. You can clean them up but personally I like ht leads and coils to be pristine.
Hi Chris, I'm riding it every day, and the bike runs always a bit rough. I poured a bottle of this with two full tanks thinking it could have helped but it hasn't changed : Also when checking the sparkplugs i saw the surface of the vertical piston ... it looked like a barbeque that hasn't been cleaned for years!
Hi mate, Touched the leads, all good. If you set it on 2k you'll have a lower result, but it won't get nearer the specs.. confused
I would probably replace them myself .. I was actually about to order them yesterday night but then I thought I'd wait for you guys. Any recommendations as to where to get a new pair?
There are so many aftermarket leads that I wouldn't know where to start. Magnecor comes to mind? I think the original leads are still available the std leads were lifted straight from a Lancia Integrale if it helps you track (npi) them down but obviously they have to be the right length.
That's a shame, it now means that you need to move on to other checks. How much oil are you consuming say, over 100 miles/ does it puff from the exhaust on start up and clear and/or does it puff on idle after a hard thrash? Have you got access to a compression tester? When were rockers last checked for wear/clearance?
There's a tiniy bit of smoke on start up, never after a ride. Oil levels are still within limit. I will get a compression tester. No idea about the rockers, was going to do check them.
from your first two answers, things are looking up even 'modern technology' valve stem seals tend to dry out after a while and particularly exhaust items and if not used regularly. The bike could also benefit from a throttle body balance, air bleed/TPI check to see if you can improve plug colour on vertical cylinder although it's possible that that is purely down to valve stem seal(s).
you will deffo need top check on 2kohms if your checking a components with a higher resistance 200ohms but less than two thousand. try it on the tone setting
even with modern technology and EFI you still need all the basics, ie good strong spark, clean fuel delivery, good plugs. basics first, rule out all the obvious easy stuff first.
A single HT lead for my 998 was quoted as £60 so a new pair will be expensive. Magnecor leads are a much cheaper even when new. I use them on my 748R which has surface discharge plugs and they give a good strong spark. They come with a separate earth lead that you will need to bolt to somewhere on the head or the valve covers.
all for that, gws but nice to try and save time looking at the usual suspects plus bearing in mind that a black/rich running spark plug replaced with a new one has a 99.99% chance of doing exactly the same
Run a compression test (dry) Vertical: 42 PSI Horizontal: 115 honestly I am not 100% confident with these readings (or with the tool to be precise) as it came straight out of the box and I didnt put any teflon tape on threads (between gauge and coupler) however it does kind of make sense as the vertical cylinder is the one with dirty valves. So I'm trying to think back at when I did the timing belt replacement and I am not sure I did all the right steps, especially I had doubts on the Vertical ones.. I might have moved the camshafts. Is there a way for me to reposition them correctly? without removing the heads? maybe whilst I do a clearance check? help please ..
It doesn't sound too good now, worth checking the low cylinder a couple or three times more just to confirm. You are cranking with the throttle in the fully open position aren't you? Cranking speed can make a difference also, sometimes I even run a slave battery. Finally you could try just the vertical cylinder after a few squirts of oil and see what it bumps up to.
