Thought I would take the multi out for a spin today as not had time over the last month or 2 , a pool of oil sat in the front wheel dish :-( . What is the cost for roll in roll out fork seal replacement on the 1200s model? I am willing to remove the forks my self when I get time if its not a major chore . I now have 3 bikes unusable, an 848 evo with a nail in the rear tyre, an mv brutale out of tax because I don't have a log book due to dvla clicking the wrong button and listing my bike as permanently exported :-( ( long story ) and my leaking fork seals . It doesn't take much to be bike less these days :-(
Might be worth buying a sealmate from ebay and trying that first as might just be so road muck stuck in the seal, happens all the time in offroad bikes.
Not sure on price but id imagine it will be 1.5hrs labour plus parts so depending on your dealer i would estimate somewhere between £150-200
Had a leaking seal on my ohlins mechantronic fair old leak ...... You tube .......'fork seal buddy ' Got one off eBay £4 it has worked a treat not a hint of a leak anymore . You can top up leg aswell with oil if you think you have lost a bit of oil , it's a measurement from the top of the tube to the free surface of the oil 130 mm I think
Ok guys i guess this tool is worth a go, I will need to check the fork level oil and refill them, this is the bit I am unsure about and also need to verify the correct fluid .
My dealer told me forks had to be out to refill. This true or were they trying to get me in for the £250 seal replacement they quoted. I just used a seal mate and sorted it myself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You could buy a seal mate or you could just cut a chunk out of a fairy liquid bottle and use that. My wife made cards and had some acetate sheet. I used that. Any model shop will sell you a sheet of acetate
Removing a fork isnt hard anyway, wheel out and unclamp. Cant imagine it's much more than half hour once out for a pro
I got an extra year out of mine using home made seal mate. Changed the seals myself an easy job. There is a vid on youtube showing how to do it. I may be wrong but I believe it's not the amount of oil in the forks that matters but the air gap
When my seals failed I took the forks out myself (1 hour max) and sent them off to Kais (£120+vat). It's a simple job to do if you've basic spannering skills. Roll-in, roll-out would probably add ~£100-£150.
I Carnt prove this but I reckon in most cases with fork seals leaking it is debris trapped under the lip of the seal , when I used the fork seal buddy the debris was flys dead body and wings . It has not leaked a drop since doing it , on the ohlins mechantronic the oil level is a measured distance from the top of the tube 130 mm I think it was ,so as someone said that's the air space gap ....its with the forks extended so when it's in centre stand your already there The fork oil is 7.5 weight . You could take the fork leg out if you wanted but I will say ..... crack the top nut off first with the pin tool ..it was seriously tight , when it's clamped in the triples you have a ready made vice to hold the leg tight . Tools needed Seal buddy eBay £4 Ohlins tool eBay £22 And some 7.5 weight fork oil The pin tool for ohlins have different Center to Center measurements the one you need is 44mm . If you are pretty handy with spanners it's an easy enough job , if you are mechanically inept just take it to a bike shop and pay the dosh .
mechanico lee, may be a stupid question, but did you slacken off the top yoke bolt before attempting to undo the top nut ? You can use a feeler gauge blade to slide under the seal to clean it. Anybody put neoprene sleeves on the fork legs to stop crap getting in there in the first place, off road boys do this a lot.
He said don't slacken it because it grips the leg whilst you try to get the top off (unless I took that wrong). I have the Kriega seal protectors on mine now. Much better since and dead cheap less than £20 a pair of memory serves. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Always slacken the top one off but not the bottom one JH. Are the Kriega ones split or do you have to slide them over the fork leg ?
Oki-yokey [emoji23] The Kriega ones are split, with loops for cable ties. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You losen the top bolts round the top of the forks or the pressure from the pinch bolts makes the forks really hard to undo. Leave the bottom yoke pinch bolts tight holds the fork legs in place while undoing the top.
I see what your saying but the upper pinch bolts are positioned quite a bit down on the leg ,so I wouldn't say the clamp would be holding weight on it
