Never tested it TBH, just know that you need to slip the clutch a little more to pull away and when riding if you pull the clutch (eve if not changing gear) you can feel a pulse at the lever.
You haven't put a 520 on a 530 sprocket or something have you? Mix and match or buy at once? Not sure how else you could be out of alignment
All bought at once. I know it's not ideal, but is it ok run a bike on a paddock stand at low slow speed?
People do. Not sure what that will tell you and always the risk of it falling off. Not sure if the hub like it, as the stand slides inside not sit oder the swingers. IMHO I wouldn't, other than lube the chain
If you're running engine on tick over with bike in 1st the chain/engine won't run smooth. Will judder and snatch.
I have closed the garage doors for the night, will check tomorrow Old Rider. Is it possible to get them out of alignment? I think I would have noticed if it was askew.
Don't see how if bolted on properly and same pitch etc. if it is I'd imagine you have far bigger worries!! Mine used to bounce a lot on the stand if I ran it in gear so I could live the chain
I was just wondering if you'd sighted down the chain to make sure if everything is true and straight.
I'd be very concerned if the rear was locking up as you describe and would thoroughly examine the whole drive chain system nuts, bolts, sprockets, carrier axle eccentric etc. IMO the slipper is highly unlikely to be the cause, and I don't think running it on the paddock stand will help you. There's been a few comments regarding loads, engine braking, engaging & disengaging and it might be helpful to understand the mechanics of the slipper. When the bike is travelling at a relatively high speed and you engage a low gear the rear wheel will try and rotate the engine faster, it's got no chance on a big twin the engine is dominant, a standard fixed clutch dictates that wheel must slow down and this can cause the tyre to lose traction. With a slipper clutch as the rear wheel speed tries to rotate the engine this "push" on the clutch causes the drum to rise and disengage the plates effectively allowing the bike to freewheel until engine & wheel speed are matched then the drum returns to normal and the clutch engages again.
You do have the balls on the ramp fitted correctly and the spider spring seated on the hub in the correct manner. Is the carrier correctly set up and tightened. If the bike was fine before then I can only imagine something is not seating correctly. I have a Sigma clutch in my 998 and apart from very minor hopping and pulsing as you move away it is completely faultless. Did you check the distance between the pressure plate and the hub centre when building the clutch and did you check the clutch pack height. These are all things that should be checked when fitting a new clutch. An extract from someone else with a similar problem. "The correct stack on the 'Standard" DP slipper starting from the hub is; Friction/convex plate /Friction/Steel /Friction/Steel /Friction/Steel /Friction/Steel /Friction/Steel /Friction/Steel/Steel Hope that made sense? 7 friction drive plates = 3mm each 7 Steels = 2mm 1 Convex = 1.5mm 36.5mm stack height Race version is different 9 frictions, 4 flat steels (1.5mm), 4 convex, and one thick flat plate (2mm)"
That all makes sense Red998, I was maticulous with the installing of the clutch, correct stack height etc.... I have since put back the original clutch, I am next going to check carefully the drive train and rear hub before going out to try again. The part I cant check is the gearbox which could be the cause. Thanks to all for the advice
I can't see how the gearbox is a problem, it can't work out when you turn left vs right. Misalignment may feel worse one side than the other and a loose chain running out will be noisy
I'm assuming you have the same rear wheel setup as a Diavel. I refitted my rear wheel and managed to not line up the spikes with the holes in the wheel and I could ride the bike but it behaved strange on and off throttle but wasn't as obviously as you would expect. If you've done all this work I'm guessing you've had the rear wheel off. Worth a check. Your problem does sound kind of similar to what I felt. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Did your wheel lock-up at any point? I have not had the wheel off to check yet, I need someone to sit on the bike and hold the rear brake for me to remove the nut!!
If you have Marchesini wheels then it is quite easy to misalign the rear wheel. You will notice however that the wheel will not entirely fit flush with the hub and if you don't notice it then as you screw the centre nut up you will find it does not quite seat properly and won't feel "right". If you do happen to have done this then the wheel could start to cut into the wheel and scrape out some metal. You will of course get the rocking movement you seem to describe. If you have the three spoke Brembo wheels, I think you will find that it would be more noticeable when you try to line the wheel up on the axle, and without checking, I am not even sure if you can misalign the wheel that easily. I have seen a Marchesini wheel fitted badly and it was a bit nasty with plenty of filings dug out by the pins that are used to align and hold the wheel in place. Either way a quick check should prevent you damaging the wheel significantly. Does the hub circlip line up with the holes easily in the back hub as that can also be an indicator of a misaligned wheel
I have seen wheels used on track where they have done it so many times that the holes and the groves are the same size! Easy mistake to make and ride on. And if its been done and ridden on before, less likely its noticeable when installed.
