I'm collecting my first Ducati this weekend - 748. Its not been used in the last year so I'll be doing some quick preventative maintainance jobs before tacking it out. It comes with a new MOT which meant having new pads, battery and front wheel bearings fitted. Planned Jobs, New belts - Current ones a 2 years old now, but only 400miles. Flywheel nut - Cheap to do, just takes a few hours. Valve clearances - I'll check them and then decide what to do. Its its only slightly out I'll do them over the winter. Last checked 3000miles ago. How much are Newman followers? Tyres - check the prod date, but I'll probably change them ready for next summer. Anything else I should be planning? I've read many threads and learnt a lot so far.
If the clearances were good 3,000 miles ago then they shouldn't have moved by now, they won't move over time only with use but it's worth checking for rocker flaking - you need to remove the cams to do this properly but if the oil is clean (no glitter) then maybe leave that until the winter. If you have rocker problems then get Newman to do at least all the openers, IIRC they charge around £35 - £40 to reface and is IMO well worth it as you remove the problem once and for all. Personally I'd be checking the TPS, throttle balance & CO to make sure it's running at it's best, especially if previous service history is sketchy and of course change the oil & filter plus fuel filter & air filters.
if its been stood still all fluids and fuel filter potentially. check strainer for chrome flakes whats the mileage and year and congrats on the purchase by the way
The bike is coming with an oil change, so I can't check for flaky chrome in the old oil. Is it possible to check the rockers with a small keyhole camera, or do you need to remove the cam? Good call on all fluids. I think I'll run it until the winter and then change them all. By then I'll get to know the bike and find out what else needs doing. Is the fuel filter in the tank? How do you check the TPS? Is it worth just changing it to be sure or does that required it to be initialised? I don't mind spending money on it now, and get the benefit over the life of my ownership. Bike is a 99T in Yellow, 22k miles. Most history is there, but doesn't show things like when tyres were fitted. Just the service intivals and MOT checks.
cams to be removed unfortunately! check the wiring and connections around the battery box esp the relays and the starter solenoid... blitz with some contact cleanser if required... the female connector on the back of the starter solenoid easily comes off
Bike collected and back home now. I'm pleased with the bike, but it needs a little work. It past its mot this morning but the battery is dead. They didn't have a replacement that fitted so they took a nice chunk off the price. Where is the best place to get a battery? Either an oe battery because its going back to standard (ish), or a lightweight Lipo battery. I don't like the gold bungs in the frame by the foot rest, what should be in there? Forks are low in the yokes, last owner is short. Screen bolts are yuk! What should it have ?
Motobat work well on these, the gold bungs are aftermarket normally there is nothing there, screen bolts aftermarket also. Steve
CT moto do some decent screen screws, they look original and the quality is good. Fork height seems ok and the frame bungs might look better if you took the gold off and just had them silver. Congrats on the bike.
Thanks all. The frame bungs wobble but don't come out easily. I guess they just pull out. I'll look at CT moto for bolts. Moto-rapide have 1 on their eBay site for £6 each plus postage. The alternative is silver bolts on eBay for £7set. I also have naff gold bar ends. What was original?
Originally black plastic pushed in. Only a few quid from Ducati. Try Moto Rapido Winchester. My frame plugs were just pushed in, give em a wiggle.
Always got my batteries from here Replacement UPS, TomTom, Duracell & Laptop Batteries from MDS Battery good service and decent prices.
Yep got my new yuasa yt12b bs from mds. They sell directly and through Amazon and ebay I think. I had no idea that the trellis frame left factory with the plugs. Cheers Mr creamy
No, frame does not come with plugs. Bar ends are small black plastic affairs available for a few quid from Moto Rapido.
I stripped the bike down to change the belts, and I too have flakey rockers. Without removing the cams I can only see the lifters, and it looks like 5 have worn followers. I factored this in with the price of the bike so I still think I've a good deal. Checking the vertical head exhaust lifters isn't easy, the dampers getting in the way. I'm thinking of taking this head off to view it better, help shimming and help cleaning it. Are the gaskets expensive and do I need any special tools? I have an oil leak somewhere around the back of the engine, which is why I'm also thinking of pulling the head.
Let's hope no cam lobe damage from the worn rockers. 5 x rockers itself is expensive if buying new. You might be better sending the lot off for refacing as mentioned. Good luck
A full gasket set costs (or did some years ago) well over £100, if you're only doing one head it'll be less but the full set is cheaper than buying everything individually. You will need some special tools, for torqueing the heads, piston ring compressor etc. but nothing too complicated/expensive. Changing opening rockers in situ is not difficult (although rear cylinder exhaust valves are tricky to get at), closers are more tricky as hooking the springs back in is a bit awkward and you need to be careful not to drop the valves into the cylinder (bring piston up as a stop). Unless you need/want the heads off then I'd persevere without, if you really can't access the rear exhausts because of the frame then you could always drop the engine out - no more work than removing the heads and cheaper as you won't need the gaskets...
Removing the engine is an option I didn't think of. Can it come out with the swinging arm in place (Obviously bolt out), or will it all collapse? It would allow everything to be cleaned better.
