Thanks final edition but I am 99.9% confident wiring and connections ok. Hmmm finm, wasn't my finest moment.
Thanks, got it, fitted it, set the gap..............same. Now trying to figure out ecu connector disassembly so I can inspect sockets closely.. Got lock off it, got cover off, inner seal plate released, yellow slide lock out....hmmm now need an extractor tool I think. Will feret around my tool box at work tomorrow.
I wouldn't take the ECU connectors apart. I would check the pin continuity with a meter and with reference to the wiring diagram
you would think if the fuel pump was priming during cranking it would be getting the crank signal. the workshop was a noisy place on friday with customers coming jn when chatting to you. i have had these connectors apart and i have had issues as i mentioned but doesn't really explain the spark you get when passing the spanner over the t.d.c sensor. the phonic wheel isn't detached or damaged . your bumping bike in first with the spark plugs removed only one spark. mate replace the fuse for e.c.u. just amuse me, i had a vehicle in last year,been of the road for over a month and done the rounds every thing done even down to replacing the timing chain as it was suggested it was out faze. same symptoms. just out luck the first thing i checked was the voltage at the coils disconnected battery voltage found. checked the fuse for the coils it looked ok checked it for continuity fine. i dropped it refitting it, put a new one in it and hay presto. found it on the floor and checked it wasnt braking down under load which it was. are you checking for voltage at coils when connected? if not do so. the perfect result for me, fixed in seconds and fresh ammo to slag off my nephew a very competent mechanic and owner of said vehicle.
All wiring to ecu previously continuity checked.All sensors too. I will certainly try a new fuse and at the same time inspect all connections in fuse area. Stranger things do happen. There is 11.7 volts at the stick coil connectors including whilst cranking. I agree, the fact it sparks when puting the spanner in/out of prox to the timing sensor does shows that cct all ok. This is going to end up being something so simple. Or I will end up being so simple, one or the other.
i used to get this when i worked on fiats, you would get two hours to diagnose then you could contact tesseo (fiat technical) they would give you a few pointers if you got no joy you could request a dealer visit (never got that when i was working on other makes) so within two or three days you would have the cream of the crop up from slough to sort out your failed attempt to diagnose a fault. the thought of having some major league diagnosing dude drive 400mls to replace a fuse was stressful to say the least.(thankfully never happend) compounded by the fact the lad that would drive up was a mate i used to work/drink with and the competition was strong between us. so if your reading this J.mac i still think i was better with the nuts and bolts. i am very interested to hear the solution to this fault.
i am very interested to hear the solution to this fault. Arent we all, i keep looking and hoping . Good luck. Steve
Having a quiet day at work has given me time to stare (sometimes blankly) at the wiring diagram again. So, in addition to the fuse I have a cunning plan; .1) re the sidestand switch (previously eliminated), check no stray earth on body 38 line as this is the eng kill signal if you put the stand down eng running. 2) Compare voltage at Body 27 (ign + kill sw on) with body 17 (ign sw on) and Body 4. Should all be around 12V and importantly, all similar to eliminate any high resistance here. 3) Re check all earth points incl engine earth etc. 4) Perform pin pull off check on ecu connectors 5)Disconnect fuel pump and check for spark in case draggin volts down on coil /injector line 6)Check tach indication again whilst cranking 7)Light match, throw and walk away Whilst I am not near the bike there is always optimism.
Re item (1), it needs the earth on body 38 to run, so to clarify, it will be an open cct on this line I will look for. However, I have already done a resistance check Body pin 38 to ground satisfactory before so unless it's intermittent, this wont be the cause. (shorted the sidestand switch too to double check). Optimism fading, step (7) approaching. Will have another look Tuesday morning.
Couldn't wait to morning, the suspense was killing me....still not running!!! 1) It's not the body 38 earth via sidestand switch. Jury wired it to be double sure. 2)ECU power supplies at body 27, 17 and 4 all good and comparable. 3) It's not engine earth, ecu earth or battery earth. 4) It's not a faulty fuel pump 5) It's not a faulty fuse (tried new one in each place finm!) It's left me a couple of things to do tomorrow. Re-check other earths, Physical check behind fuse box. Pin pull-off check if I can find some pins.Insulation check all ecu wiring pin to pin and pin to ground.I have done resistance checks from the ecu connectors via the throttle sensor, air temp sensor and water temp sensor and although I dont know the correct values they all seemed reasonable. I assume that these sensors would not inhibit starting, will play around with them again tomorrow.After that the big step (7) is approaching. Luckily it's now approaching beer o'clock.
if theirs only one thing i'v learned in the last 20 years is never say never. if your unsure about impact of the last three sensors on ignition, just disconnect one at a time and recheck for spark. one of the strangest things i have seen happening on fiats was the can system shutting down due to wrong spark plugs being fitted. (at another garage) clear the errors listed then it would restart, run for a wee while then just cut out dead. took me a bit of time to sus that one out.
Had another fruitless few hours today. Can anyone confirm the following sensor resistances, they seem about right, ie items 1,2,3 and 5 below. And can anyone confirm item 7 below. 1) Rechecked Throttle sensor resistance, seems ok, eng 20 to 30 520 ohms (main coil), with eng 3 to 20 at 60 ohms idle, 600 full throttle progressive, no dead spots. 2) Air temp sensor eng 14 to 29 at 3280 ohms 3) air pressure sensor eng 22 to 13 at 3.2/5.8 Meg ohms. eng 13 to 29 at 3.2/5.8 Megohms. Eng 22 to 29 at 164 K ohms. 4) Coil sticks from ecu 1.7 ohms each one 5) Injectors from ecu 14.8 ohms each one 6) voltage checked correct at sensors, 4.98V at water temp sensor connector, 4.98V at air temp sensor connector, 4.98V at air press sensor connector, and 5v at throttle position sensor. 7) Air press sensor output 4.5V (eng 13) 8) tried each coil stick and each plug one at a time in each cylinder ie all combinations, confirmed both cylinders fire using any combo coil/plug. 9) Tried supplying a seperate 12v power supply to the coil/injectors from the fuel pump relay output to the ecu body, same result. 10) confirmed (again earths incl engine and ecu and battery ok)....exhausted that one. 11) tried disconnecting immobiliser 12) tried equalising immobiliser key sense/key lock outputs 13) Pin push back and pin pull off check of eng and body connectors ok. Only thing left to try is the insulation checks, they are ok with a fluke (multimeter) but yet to do it with insulation tester. Other than that am suspecting my "racing" ecu is not working correct but it is giving same as another ecu I have borrowed. Dont know if any diagnostic software will help, anyone know?
Found a ' scope at work but cant take bike to where scope is and can't get scope here. However, have ordered diagnostic test leads and got software so that should sort me out.....hopefully. Short of time next few days but will still megger loom (after disconnecting EVERYTHING of course!).
Have run your problem past a contact of mine who tunes Ducatis. What is the cranking speed of the engine like? If it is too slow it could cause your problems. What gap have you got for the CPS? He suggests trying 0.3mm. Are you able to connect the bike to JPDiag and read any fault codes?
