Yes, I did say 99.9% confident on loom didn't I. Now, not only doubting loom but starting to doubt myself too. Cranking speed is normal. I have also tried cranking with plugs removed to increase cranking speed. I have got the JP Diag software, just waiting for adaptors to arrive, ordered them yesterday. Also ordered another new set of spark plugs (straw clutching). Have tried setting timing sensor gap down to 0.2mm. Currently back at 0.6mm.
My VAGCOM OBD KKL USB 409.1 lead arrived today. However, it has a red LED on it that illuminates when connected to the USB. I understand that this is probably a Winchiphead chipset (WCH) cable and not an ftdi cable. So.......what is the correct driver for this one????? Also, someone has mentioned that the ground link doesn't match with a WCH adaptor and you need to link 4 and 5 together....is that pin 4 on the VAGCOM lead to pin 5 on the fiat adaptor lead???
Just ran the JP Diag. The software seems to run good except when doing the fan/ign/inj/rev counter tests the software freezes after about one minute and I had to disconnect/reconnect the software to repeat or continue the tests. Is that normal? The programme showed all sensors ok (throttle 1.1 degree at idle but ok through range), all other sensors correct. When cranking, the only clue was display alternating between "engine running" and engine "stalling" displayed as it fired occasionally as before. On one occasion it was followed by display of 'power-latch activation". There was no display (blank) for the box marked Perso. It showed "gear engaged" which is not used on the monster s4. (neutral light only, not ecu). This one seems a bit odd if the ecu is seeing engaged. The plugs spark repeatedly during ignition tests. The injectors the same during injector tests. All worked ok. Except it wont start!!!! Unless someone can see something glaringly obvious from the above, I am going to revist the timing sensor for the umpteenth time and then suspect the ecu's are still being upset by the immobiliser even though 2 give the same results and are flashed for immobliser disable. Then burn it!!!!!!!
The software freezing can be solved by putting a USB hub between the KKL lead and your computer. A cheap Trust hub will do and it doesn't require powering. I thought the S4 used a non-linear TPS so has to be adjusted using a meter and not by the software (as for a linear TPS). Have you set the TPS up?
OK, thanks Chris, I thought that with the engine static the software would run ok. It isn't really an issue, more a nuisance. The TPS appears to be linear when I used the multimeter whilst operating the throttle some days ago. It did originally read 5.6 deg at idle and i did try using the programme to reset it. It is now 1.1 deg but to be quite honest, I wasn't sure if I had the choke on in the first instance (was a long day, my excuse anyway). However, even if the TPS was out it should still start because the bike will normally start with throttle shut or held partially open. What do you think about the immobiliser issue or ecu incompatibility?? Really not sure about my spare "racing" one but your one did give the same result hence been using mine. I know the original one gave no spark at all.
are you saying its sparking now? cant imagine an immobilizer allowing injector pulses but not ignition.
+1. If it was an immo issue then the bike would not turn over. Using the ECU I sent you, disconnect the wires to the immo unit and see if it still turns over. I have done this on the ST4S that uses the same immo system and the bike will start with no immo box fitted.
No. Sparks ok using diagnostic software. When cranking, as before, fires occasionally. Will use software on my original ecu tonight to compare. Interested in the clutch and gear engaged showing on the ecu currently fitted. The original ecu gave no spark at all whilst cranking so will also be interesting to see if it sparks using Diagnostics. Then suspect timing signal (again) and/or ecu/immobiliser. My 2 posts above show what I got last night with my spare ecu.
The bike does crank whilst immobilised, for example if you allow time-out from the key recognition. The line to the start solenoid going only via ign switch and sidestand switch. Have previously tried disconnecting the immobiliser but this, whilst still allowing cranking, prevents ignition/injection. Tried linking the relevant immobiliser connections (whilst immob disconnected) to power my ecu with no effect.
If you can wait a couple of days, to give me time to find it all, you can borrow a clock-set, ecu, immob, datatool alarm, loom and keys from my S4 that was running before I took it all out.
That could be very useful thanks. I will have a dabble with it tonight and a couple of hours tomorrow but really not expecting a break-through (all optimism gone!). Maybe you could PM me or scroll up for phone contact please. Cheers Finm... appears no7 is on a further delay (for the time being) but if it arrives the satisfaction will be immense.
Had similar experience on my 600M, traced it to a duff pick-up coil (ignition sensor) underneath the flywheel. The Haynes manual does give the readings, but even if you do get a reading close to those given, it won't necessarily mean that there isn't a fault with the pick-up coil! Ducati part £80 ish, Electrex World Part is better and is £25! Checked with Rich at Louigi Moto and he confirmed that he uses Electrex World pick-ups himself. You'll have to either do a neat soldering job inside the case or do what I did and run the leads supplied through the crankcase grommet and solder and crimp them to bullet connectors outside the case. Cover in waterproof self-amalgamating tape and cable tie to the frame in the same place as the original routing.
I do admire your tenacity. I do know how fixated you can get convinced the problem is 'X', and then after countless frustrating hours it turns out to be something completely different!
Tried timing sensor Samurai, (3 of them), incl reducing gap. Have considered mechanical problem higgy, especially timing gear (phonic wheel) but seems electronic/electrical problem. Not used my comp tester on it but does appear ok with plugs out and in. Will see if my tester fits tomorrow. Cam belts checked ok. Chris, tried disconnecting immob with your ecu with same effect (occasional firing) which does seem to confirm immobiliser not required with your ecu. Used diagnostic software with my original ecu tonight which confirmed that this ecu is faulty. It shows sidestand down and kill switch off even though those circuits are good. Fails to display ecu model no, software version or serial number. This would be why no ignition at all with that ecu. However, the timing sensor is good with the original ecu, confirmed using the diagnostics. With my spare "racing" racing ecu the sidestand and kill switch are recognised ok but the timing sensor signal appears to be intermittent, though I will confirm this tomorrow. With your ecu Chris the sidestand and kill cct ok but also had some intermittent timing signal input. However, both these last 2 ecu's need that confirming as battery volts started to drop lowering cranking speed. Will repeat tests tomorrow with ecu's tested in reverse order. All 3 ecu's spark and inject ok using test selection on software. Is appearing to be a timing signal fault as suspected yonks back, chris, is your ecu set up for a hall effect or simple inductive sensor do you know? Just wondering, but will confirm signal in morning. Failing that....blocked fuel line (oh please, surely not but am thinking at a tangent now) Failing that....go to the pub
noticed that word "cranking" again are you checking the ecu that appears to be good by turning rear wheel in 1st.
