Then start a new thread. ANYONE KNOW HOW TO GET A COLLET FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY ENGINE. Only joking. Steve
Thanks Derek , and I don't doubt you could suggest a few things as have many people , from the realistic to the quite fancy full , unfort I have very limited skills when it comes to electricity and now have no time as working away , what I now need is some one competent ( and you have been recomended ) to take a knowledgeable look at it , the details of that was what I wanted to discuss this morn on my way home ( for all of one day ) ,, thanks , i will txt you and we can make some arrangements , I will have to transport the bike to you as it is unreliable but fort I am not that far away in Peterhead , ta Rod .
it reminds me of a similar problem a friend had on his 749. It would just cut out at random with the fuel stopping. I told him to change the relay which he did but then he kept on having the same trouble. So I had a look at it and could find nothing wrong but it still kept cutting out randomly. He took it to Ducati Glasgow who changed the wiring loom and fitted a new pump. It still kept cutting out. Eventually it turned out that the daft bugger had refitted the original relay which was the cause of the on-going intermittent problems all along. Both Ducati Glasgow and myself had assumed it was a new relay. It just goes to show you. Any, looking at his problem. I don't think it is an immobiliser issue as if it is immobilised I'm pretty sure the starter won't crank and there should be some kind of warning on the dash but I wouldn't rule it out. The antenna round the ignition key barrel can get corrosion in the connector pins so that immobiliser can't communicate with the key. So it's worth checking that. The relay has definitely been replaced I believe. It is possible although unlikely that the replacement is also faulty. The ECU earth is the next place to check. It is a separate fly lead with a ring terminal to one of the ECU fixing screws. Make sure that it is clean with no corrosion and is tight. Here is a diagram showing the fuel pump wiring. Not much to it really. You will see that the relay is supplied by the brown wire, direct from the battery through a 20A fuse and goes to 2 of the relay terminals, one is to the switch contact and the other the energising coil. At switch on the ECU provides an earth for a couple of seconds and the pump "primes". It turns on again when the engine is turning either on the starter or under it's own power. Best to use a test lamp, a 12V 21W bulb with 2 wire attached. Fit a croc clip to one wire so that you can attach it to a battery terminal leave a bare end on the other wire for probing with. Clip the croc clip to the battery -ve and use the other to probe the relay base contacts. The lamp should light up if you probe either of the 2 terminals with brown wires. If not check the 20A fuse for integrity and corrosion of the blades. It is definitely worth checking the condition of the relay base terminals. A lot of shit get thrown at them with their location down low at the front of the bike and the terminals could be corroded which could led to intermittent operation. The output of the relay is brown/white wire supplying power to the fuel pump, the coils and the injectors. As Finm has suggested, bridging the brown and brown/white wires at the relay base should turn the pump on. If it doesn't the problem lies with the pump itself, the connecter at the tank, or the wiring in between. With the test lamp you can check for power at the pump connector pin 1 which is the brown/white wire. Again there should be power for 2/3 sec at switch on, if not the relay is faulty or there is a bad connection in between. You can check that the relay is being switched by unplugging the fuel tank connector and listening for the relay clicking at switch on. If you get power consistently to the tank connector then the fault is with the pump or the wiring between it and the tank connector. I have known of bad connections occurring inside the potted gland in the pump flange at the bottom of the tank. This seems to rare but not unknown on the Mk1 MTS models and as the 749/999 are of a similar age it could be happening to them too. It seems that wires corrode at the soldered joint inside the potted gland joint. If the pump or the tank wiring is suspected the pump is going to have to come out to check the pump function and the integrity of the wires through the tank flange gland. if the wiring is faulty it will require a new tank flange or it is possible to dig out the potting compound, repair the affected wire(s) and reseal the gland with JB Weld. Hopefully it won't come to that.
Thank you for that comprehensive assessment , although I do understand what you are on about and could possibly follow the instruction tbh I would be happier haveing someone like yourself to look at it , ( apart from anything else I have no time just now ) , thanks for your ph no and I will be in touch soon , ta Rod . Ps , I have had both ( yes I have a spare one of them ) the relays checked by an auto spark who says that they are both working .
OK. I have a job on for this week but should be available after that. Give me a call towards the end of the week.
