Replacing Rear Shock On 749 S

Abba stand.

You need a long hex head to get at the lower bolt. Go in from the chain side, under the plastic cover (on grey swing arm model).

 

Abba stands are great, makes working on the bike very secure, but not necessary if you don't have one. There are several ways to do it.
You can remove the footrests, reverse them and use axle stands to support the rear whilst removing and replacing the rear shock, in conjunction with a block and tackle, or ratchet straps suspended from garage joists makes lifting the rear easy.
It's a very straightforward job as long as you have the required long hex bit to undo the lower bolt.

 

Dammit, why didn't I remember the reverse the pegs trick when I replaced my cruddy bolts on the rocker arm?? :/

Would have made it soooo much easier...

 

Long hex bit? Do you mean a long reach socket or an allen key style hex key on 3/8 or 1/2 inch socket drive? Also what sizes please, I am about to do similar.

 

Yes, bear with.

 

I had a piece of Hexagonal bar about 4" ( 100mm) long and used a 12mm socket to turn it- from memory. I put a small radius on the sharp end of the bar to make engagement with the internal hexagon of the bolt's head easier as you are shoving it down a long dark hole!
I found a sharp cracking motion was more effective than a slow increase in torque to undo the bolt!

 

8mm hex.

 

The reason I used a piece of Hex bar was that I was concerned that the bolt might be F' tight and reasoned that the bar would be stronger than a ball end socket that could potentially snap it's head off whilst down the deep dark hole, rendering removal tricky!
As it turned out it wasn't that tight,and came out reasonably easily, I suspect I was lucky there though, as the bolt certainly has the potential to get corroded and seize.

 

I actually took it out with a normal hex key long way in with a ring spanner round the hex, so a similar thing.

Bought the long hex to torque correctly.

I expect you found it hard to tighten as the other end was spinning? It needs aligning correctly.

 

Thanks folks, just the stuff I was after, more questions. Is the torque 42Nm? My manual is for the red framed black swinging arm era bikes so I don't have the specs for my MY03 999. Also the alignment you refer to CR, is that a keyway?

 

Can't remember torque, think I just did to black SA

On the right side of the SA is a black plastic bung, that actually contains the nut the shock bolt goes into. It locates a certain way so as not to spin. You can tell by how it matches the contours of the SA.

If you undo the bolt 1/2 way out then tap it back in the black plastic bung will push out the right side.

If you need I can get a picture for you.

 

CR, I got it looks like it will only work the right way and will be obvious when it is seated the right way. No need for a photo. Thanks, little jobs are so much easier when you know what is what and the level of difficulty.
More questions, I will do the swap on an Abba stand, do you need to remove the seat, tank, seat subframe and wheel or is there enough space to do it all with just the seat and tail unit off?

 

Don't know mate. I had it in a big pile of bits at that point.

 

Denzil As far as I can remember I only removed the seat and possibly the wheel.

Relative to removing the shock from an 848/1098/1198 which requires taking the whole of the back of the bike apart, it's a doddle!

 

Chrystaljohn, thanks for that, it looked like there was plenty of space but the manual says wheel and seat/tank come off so was I curious. I also have to replace the shock and forks on my 748 in the next few weeks and wanted to make sure at least one of the 2 bikes is fit for its mot next month. Don't have much space in the garage so jobs have to be done in a day and bikes parked in their respective positions before locking up.

 

Not sure flipping the footpegs would work. I think they would be in the way of the bottom bolt. Or at least make it awkward.