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1199 Silencer Removal Advice

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by Bananaman, Dec 22, 2016.

  1. The heat shields on my standard 1199 silencer are seriously loose and starting to annoy me as they rattle like hell, I need to remove the silencer to sort it out. The Ducati dealership want 2 hrs labour to do the job which means they are expecting problems removing it.

    Has anyone got any advice with regards to removing the 3 bolts that connect the silencer to the main downpipes.I have sprayed them with penetrating oil etc but I get the feeling they will snap off and I'll need to drill and retap it . Before I start has anyone done this that could offer any advice?
     
  2. how old is it, and how many winters has it done?
     
  3. 4 years old, rather rusty looking allen bolts. 7000 miles.
     
  4. Save your self time and take the rear subframe off to gain better access,2 hours is a good time to do it in,i have just finished doing the same job,i undid rear header and split the system with the 3 bolt section attached to the end cans.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Thanks simmytt, I think that's what I'll have to do, remove the rear header . Once you got the silencer out did you struggle to get the 3 bolts out that secure the silencer to the main pipe?
     
  6. Mate,

    I posted a thread on here a few months ago when I removed and fitted stock cans for Termis.

    The best advice I can give you (noting that I managed to remove my bolts very carefully using a screwdriver with a hex head that allowed me to connect a socket and ratchet to the back of the screwdriver too) would be to remove the back wheel. Then you'll have space to work with and be able to get an impact driver on them.

    Will happily lend you the tools if you need them.

    Hope that helps?
     
    #6 jamie_niall, Dec 22, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2016
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. might be ok, mine looked rusty and seized, came off fine with no penetration oil. You can always get mole grips on and allen keys together.
     
  8. Buy yourself some decent long reach allen head sockets. You need to ensure you have the best fit possible into the heads of the bolts and you'll get a lot better purchase on them if you do. I would also run the engine first as heat might help dislodge them.
     
  9. My bolts were fucked,just found it easy to work on the exhaust on the bench,i had to nut and bolt it back together and thats a job that would be impossible to do on the bike,i found removing the wheel and the subframe makes accessibility so mush better,still a difficult job either way.
     
  10. Well the 3 bolts that connect the silencers to the Y piece will not budge. They were so corroded that the allen key just rounded the internal off. Even with the nut clamped in a vice grip I can't get it to turn. Looks like I'll have to try and remove the silencer with the Y piece still attached as suggested by simmytt. Or alternatively drill them out and re-tapp.
     
  11. Get a bolt extractor set it should cold off loads of penetration spray and heat!!
     
  12. Perhaps rent one of these:

     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Just done this job & had exactly the same problem so I hope I can offer some advice for a change.

    Firstly for looking like such a simple job this turned out to be 1 of the biggest PITA jobs I've ever done working on bikes.
    I've only bought my 1199 & im a bit funny about keeping it clean so I got it home & the cleaning bug bit. It's an honest bike, no chips or big marks but the last owner didn't give it much in the way of TLC & obviously rode it in all weather - I think that's the crux of most of the problems.

    Well the 3 bolts must be made of butter, the 2 at top just rung the heads even using good quality Beta tools, I left the awkward to get at one as I didn't see it being much better, this is all after a week long constant soaking in Acetone & ATF mix.
    Then the fun starts. Rear wheel to be removed & £100 later of special impact socket & Clarke electric impact gun it's off. I cut a notch in the bolts & try a socket set with a wide screwdriver bit - no chance. Then I decide the next bit of pipe up, the Y piece, needs to come off with it, quickly I realise it will need to be pulled down AND backwards to release it, I didnt think there was enough give in the system so the underseat loop needed taken off so the can & pipes can be removed by a backwards movement.

    'The heatsheild' - this needs a paragraph on its own! Whoever decided to position a retaining bolt in a well that gathers dirt, dampness & goes through heat cycles in such an awkward place with cheese bolts needs their arse kicked! So out comes the dremmel after its head rounds off, off comes the tank & up with the subframe to gain access to drill the bolt & remove it.

    After that the can did come off along with the Y piece & underseat loop. There is no way that heatsheild bolt was coming out with an Allen key as vice grips wouldn't turn what was left when I removed the loop, thankfully they are on speed nuts so just a replacement & it's good to go, I did order some High Tensile hex flange bolts to replace the Allen head ones & some high temp anti seize grease to help out. While I was there I noticed 1 leg of the bad bolt bracket on the loop needing re welded.

    That's where I am now, one of the bolts that holds the brackets on top of the cans also broke on removal, these bikes don't like water!! My cans are away getting modified & I looked at fitting a V band (as I believe is standard on the 1299) but it'd be too much work with the potential for too much to go wrong as I've 2 sets of cans.

    The cans were left to an engineers who had to use a die grinder to free the bolts holding the Y pipe on, I re threaded the 3 holes & might drill them out & just use a nut & bolt setup with that high temp grease & copper washers, I think they'll be ok if not offer tightened & regular maintenance.

    At least I took advantage of the situation & using a brass wheel in a drill the exhaust looks a lot better now plus I was able to access a good few more areas for cleaning, just need to build it all back up now.
     
    #13 750steve, Dec 30, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
    • Like Like x 3
  14. Good effort!

    Is the answer replacing the original 3 exhaust bolts with titanium ones?

    If so, has anyone done this and where can you get them from?
     
  15. Yes the 1299 is a much better set up exhaust and heat shield wise,it might be worth thinking about swapping to the 1299 heat shield.after doing this job a few times now it makes the 2 hours quoted by the dealer seem good value.
     
  16. Will the 1299 heat shield fit the 1199 setup?
     
  17. Can't see any reason why it won't the rear mounting holes are in the same place and I am pretty sure the subframes are the same, I know the 1299 runs a 70mm system as standard instead of a 65mm system so can't say if the exhaust curve is the same, I have fitted a mk2 r standard carbon head shield on my 1299 with standard headers and it works fine.
     
  18. the answer is a termi and exhaust springs instead of bolts!
     
  19. Don't know if anyone has done it & I've no idea if it would work but it can't be any worse that's for sure!
    A lot would depend on the grade of Ti i think, I'm sure it's heat properties would be ok, strength would be fine & it won't corrode, thing is i highly doubt it would flex much if it needed to in that area, i highly doubt they'd break but i deffo wouldn't want to have to drill them out if need be!
     
  20. Thanks for the write up "750steve", I think all 1199 silencer heatshields will eventually vibrate loose so it will be a good read for when others attempt this in the future. After I realised the 3 Y piece bolts wouldn't come off I decided to try and take the whole exhaust off, except I couldn't get the bolt out that holds the bracket to the top of the exhaust out (the one that you have to take the rear set off where the chain is in the way), this just rounded the allen bolt off. This is where I realised that maybe the easiest way it leave it alone and walk away.

    I've managed to stop the heat shield vibration for now by jamming some aluminium sheet between the silencer and heatshield.
     
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