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Spraying Wheels

Discussion in 'Detailing and cleaning' started by Cream_Revenge, Aug 19, 2016.

  1. Was going to get the 999 wheels powder coated but spoke to Race Paint today and had a chat about spraying wheels. I appreciate it's not as durable but sounds an awful lot easier not removing the bearing and the cush rubbers.

    Is this a sane move?

    And moving further, could it be done with either a home spraying with compressor or even Hammerite smooth gold rattle can?
     
  2. Wet spraying wheels does not require the removal of bearings and such like because it is baked at a far lower temperature than powder coating, something like 60 instead of 180. Wet spraying is however more difficult than powder coating. The guys I'm using in Camberley explained their challenge but it was lost on me :Bag:. Andy
     
  3. Race Paint quoted about 150 the pair which is cheaper and easier than powder coating.
     
  4. I have sprayed several wheels by using the wet spray method. It's quite straightforward if you know how to spray and set up a sutable pattern on the gun with which to spray the wheels by.

    I mount mine on a spindle which is held in an ordinary paddock stand that allows the wheel to be turned whilst spraying.

    I recently lacquered a set of RD250LC wheels using this method and they are quite perfect considering I paid to have the back wheel powder coated and rubbed down by a professional at a lot more than it cost me to lacquer both wheels and to paint the front wheel in the black and expose the highlights on the alloy that RD250LC's have.

    Turn the wheel rim slowly whilst spraying and pay particular attention to the inner parts of the wheel rim and get good coeverage. Far cheaper if you have the technique that paying a professional for a wet spray.
     
  5. What about rubbing down, primers, etc?

    If I have a current chip in the paint, fo I just sand it out?

    Would a few rattle cans do it or wait till I get the compressor?
     
  6. You would need a lot of rattle cans to do a decent job.

    As for chips it depends on what the surface of the wheels is like. Early Ducati wheels had a lot of primer which disguised many flaws and rough casting methods. Depending on chip depth you can either rub it out or use fine filler and then prime and recoat.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Ok, thx, I'm so getting a compressor for birthday/Christmas this year.
     
  8. Oh shit :Bag:



    :smileys:
     
  9. I hope @Red998 is going nowhere in January.......
     
  10. Happy to give you my take on it. If you don't have a decent compressor then get the best you can afford. It will pay dividends
     
    #10 Red998, Aug 19, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2016
    • Like Like x 1
  11. and then give me a shout ive got a bunch of stuff that needs a spruce up
     
  12. Sure, I need something to practice on before working on my bikes [emoji10] .
     
  13. I rattled canned some 999 wheels with Simoniz Satin black. Worked a treat and hardly chipped

    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 3
  14. That's the stuff, 2 cans are enough.
     
  15. Both wheels?
     
  16. Yes
     
    • Like Like x 1
  17. I spray my own wheels. I have a compressor and guns but prefer to just use rattle cans. Strip off old paint with paint stripper from car paint place, etch prime, then two cans of paint for the pair. Then clear coat. The paint i use is vht engine paint, even without baking gives a really good resiliance to chips. It's all about the prep, next pair to paint will be in anodise effect on the Monster. image.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 5
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