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Sprocket Know How

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by slinky848, Mar 13, 2017.

  1. I agree with NZDave. Use the chart. Some years ago when I had a 748SPS, I made some sprocket carriers for the rear wheel and tried 2 or 3 different size sprockets. With an extra tooth or two on the road, you notice higher engine revs on a motorway cruise and a bit more punch out of corners. For race tracks, you need to gear the bike to hit max revs in 6th at the end of the straight (or whichever gear you use to get max speed).
     
  2. to use that i need to know the rpm or speed of each gear?

    thought somone on this forum had changed one before on a similar power bike. and could say, fuck me yeh 1tooth make such a difference but my top end went down 400mph.

    or the oppasite and state how little each tooth did,
     
  3. Have you looked at the chart? If you load in your bike make, model and year it gives speed in each gear at 1000 rpm increments for stock gearing and then gives you the option to change sprockets/gearing and gives the same for the altered gearing.
     
  4. I suggest you buy a chain and a sprocket with +2 teeth on the wheel. Try it and see for yourself. It will be a big improvement unless you do a lot of motorway and A road cruising
     
  5. and to anyone who was part of the chars about the bike when i got it. maybe this 40T rear (and godknows what front) sprocket is why i had minir conplaints about 'up to 15/20mph engine revs being low and feeling chuggy'

    and that the power delivery felt calm and reduced? xD
     
  6. i was attempting to use this forum to only make one purchase.
     
  7. ok so the chart. as helpful as it is. i cant see where it shows stats for acceleration. top speed is. well. great i can see how different that is. any charts for say. 0-100 times?
     
  8. That depends on the state of tune of your engine and how good you are at launch. Just look at the start of any race to see how many variations there are. A better value would be say 40-80mph but there are variations there too. From experience .... see previous post.
     
  9. at least with best possible numbers i can COMPARE the different teeth counts.

    im not after actual time i would get, with my tyre, my weather, my skill.

    just a mere. on same day. a rider would get xmph in xtime with xaount of teeth and then a comparison of -1 and -2 teeth?
     
  10. or +1 +2 for those that will moan about me being discriminative to sprockets numbers
     
  11. Whilst increasing teeth helps with acceleration, it helps more with rideability IMO, I doubt the actual figures, 0-100 or whatever would vary much just the point at which you need to change gear.

    In practice +3 teeth on the rear is roughly equivalent to -1 on the front.

    I find the gearing commander site quite useful as a guide but what matters is how it feels to you at the speed/conditions that you ride at. For example I went from 15/36 to 15/39 on my 916 and I like it, I did briefly try 15/41 but it was too 'buzzy' and I found myself constantly looking for a 7th gear.

    Similarly on my Monster I tried 15/41 and found that even worse than the 916 due to it's lower revving/torqueier delivery and so went to the standard 15/39 which suits it nicely - but these are my opinions and others prefer more or less...
     
  12. Quite so.
    I put a 14 on the front of my SS and found it made it too buzzy. I put the 15 back on for the long legged feel it gives.
    However, a 14 is perfect for me on the 999. I don't need it to be geared for 160 plus and it makes it much more rideable at lower speeds.
     
  13. so genrally you try different fronts. then when you got your favourite you fune tune with a rear
     
  14. i actually learnt something, thanks!
     
  15. It is generally considered best practice to increase the rear rather than decrease the front for several reasons, however it is easier/cheaper/quicker to swap the front (assuming the chain and rear sprocket are not worn) as a front sprocket is cheap and 1 less tooth won't require a new chain.

    To fit a +3 rear you will need to buy a rear sprocket and a new chain so will be significantly more expensive, so probably best done when replacing the whole set anyway.

    When I first got the 916 I did fit a 14t front with the original 36t as it was quick, cheap & easy and this gave more or less the same result as a 15/39, but a smaller front puts more tension on the chain and runs a tighter radius which can cause more wear and increases the risk of a chain breakage, although unlikely with a new/good chain.

    When the whole lot needs replacing anyway then it costs no more to go larger on the rear and so is the best combination.
     
    #35 Dukedesmo, Mar 17, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
    • Agree Agree x 1
  16. Hello guys !

    Are there any spatial issues when fitting a 40T or a 41T rear in terms of chain sliders etc (Ducati 848) ? Has anyone finally tried any of these two sprocket sizes ?

    Thank you !
     
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