Porsche Friends...

Discussion in 'Lounge' started by bradders, Nov 28, 2017.

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  1. Thanks, sounds like another search needed.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  2. So, it’s comments I find when searching like this that send me to an early 996.

    “Plastic piston coatings and small single-row bearings were introduced during 2000. From everything I have read, it's hard to be certain what the engine will have once you get into 2000. Well, until perhaps late 2000 when you can be fairly sure it's plastic coatings a single-row bearing.

    In short, you want a 97, 98 or 99 build date which should mean dual-row bearing and ferrous piston coatings. Worth bearing in mind that whatever you go for, it's open deck and the bores can go oval / crack. The crank shells don't have a great rep for reliability. That said, yes there's a decent argument that says the early 3.4 996 was actually the best of the M96/7 bunch - at least of the larger engines fitted to 911s as opposed to the Cayster engines.”

    This is from a pistonheads thread and is common.
     
  3. Sorry mate, disagree, but it's your cash at the end of the day. Good luck
     
    • Crap Crap x 1
  4. Read thru that site before. This stacks up the same as my info that 98-99 are less prone


    IMS bearing failure

    One of the most serious issues on the 996 is failure of the factory-fitted IMS bearing, which can lead to catastrophic engine problems. The failure rate on models manufactured between 2000 and 2005 is around 8% (according to various published statistics), so make sure you find out whether the car you are interested in buying has had the highly-effective retrofit solution before you make an offer.”
     
  5. From that site.......

    A more relevant piece of information is that the early 3.4 engines have proved much more prone to this problem than the post-2001 3.6 units.
     
    • Face Palm Face Palm x 1
  6. Yep saw that. The big issues everyone talks about are IME, RMS and bore scoring, all of which are less likely on the early model. Plus, from a value perspective, first edition likley to hold value better I suspect
     
  7. nice colour, gulf blue I think, a special order colour. :upyeah:
     
  8. As Ive said all along, the things are a risk, a big risk. If it has to be a 996 its luck of the draw. Ive had 2 of my own 996.
    One had a new engine (98 model) with cylinder failure, the other (2000) model had a slight IMS weap for 2 years without any other problems.
    A/C condensers on both were replaced from stone damage, one on each side of the car behind the big air intakes. Theres no stone protection. That job alone is £1000 a time.
    Tread carefully, get a full inspection, get a warranty. If possible finance a 997, with A 3.6 motor.
     
  9. I think the Porsche 911 is a fabulous iconic sports car but the potential for massive bills if anything goes wrong would put me right off.

    But, buy any new car and the depreciation can be eye watering.

    So, given that a classic Porsche will probably hold it's value quite well is it really that much of a risk compared to buying a more mundane new car ? Probably not.
     
  10. Think this was te one (looked at so many) that just had 7k spent incl new radioatres
    except servicing isnt really 2k pa unless its brakes and tyres all round. Having researched it, its not too distant from owning a ducati for servicing and running costs (older one that needs big service every two years and 3 stays of tyres pa plus a set or two of pads). But all these things are a risk, and why i'd be inclined to buyer dealer with warranty over private less history was so spot on and all the riskier engine stuff has been replaced/checked. The one in Essex has an MOT history that shows its last Mot had several failures, all brake and tyre related after a year of almost no miles, and all the previous clear of failures or advisories.

    Funny enough, I should be asleep after gong to bed at 2300 but have since on my laptop working out the next 10yr plan and what funds I may be able to release ;)
     
  11. Just remember, the best laid plans never survive first contact with the enemy.
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  12. 1. Only certain models of a certain vintage. And even these 'vunerable' models- it's a very small % that went or go tits up. But because the repair bill is so high it gets screamed from every rooftop. Many of the 996 models that @bradders is looking at have passed the 300,000 miles mark with no issues at all and still going strong. Obviously you have to look after them.

    2. Not some 911's. If you can bag a 'GT' badged 911 at list you can flip it for tens of thousands. A grubby game and only the very well connected can play. But it's there, alive and kicking I'm afraid.

    3. No. If you get your dough into the right car you should be OK. I bought a 997 two years ago and said to my wife we'll enjoy it for two years then sell it to do something really boring like pay a chunk off the mortgage. But it's value has held firm, even gone up a bit despite the fact I do use it and enjoy it. So we'll keep it for now and just hope the market doesn't tank (didn't mention that bit to the wife :p)
     
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  13. Matches much of my thinking too.
     
  14. Be careful. Brakes and tyres all round (if you want decent stuff) would be more than that just to buy. Discs/pads/tyres all round on my Impreza were more than £2k just for parts (with me fitting them). Mates who have owned Porches are constantly surprised by the cost of extra little maintenance jobs (silly little water leaks that cost more then £2k to fix, and the afore mentioned a/c radiator repairs). Performance cars are much more expensive than even the top end sports bikes. People tend to kid themselves about the real cost (especially of an older car where more things are wearing out). You might be lucky, but you need to go into it with your eyes fully wide open, because they can swallow cash even if they don’t suffer any of the bigger problems. Personally, I’d budget £4K/year for insurance/servicing/little jobs. If you don’t spend that, all well and good... but you probably will.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  15. Agree with the above. For instance, you can bag a tidy RS6 for 20k. But replace tyres, discs and pads.... gulp! Because these types of cars are so powerful, it takes much more energy to haul them up and this is when your pads and discs get turned to dust. And as for ceramic composite- don't even go there...
     
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  16. I'd definitely agree with the above. I got my 911 from probably the most reputable dealer out there and I still have a £2-3k bill incoming for new tyres, discs and pads. You wouldn't need to buy such expensive parts as I need but I would still expect to spend that on something or other if you are buying unless you are very lucky. The water leak I suffered a few months ago all got replaced under warranty but if not then it would have cost over a grand regardless of what model it was. I must admit that it is all a bit sobering at the moment with less money coming in over christmas!
     
  17. A car doing 6k miles a year, with great history and a fair amount of recent consumables replaced, use for occasional road trips not track, where insurance is £350 pa needs 4k pa allocates for upkeep?! Sorry, if I were tracing it yes or if it had mega high failure and service rates (evo or scooby) maybe, but a car that has lots of high mileage examples where they are often used as an everyday transport?

    Oil change twice a year £500
    Maybe a tyre if a puncture £300
    If it’s used enough it won’t suffer the brake failure at MOT time that v hikes often have.

    I’m not stupid enough to think that it will be ‘cheap’ or that an issue won’t cost more than possibly a ford but equally know things don’t have to cost he earth, either.
     
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