Out today and after 3 miles opened up the SP shortly followed by an immediate loss of power and a feeling I’d just pulled the parachute cord. Clutch straight in and as luck would have it a lay-by right there. Back wheel seized, chain loose and front of the back tyre stuck against the swing arm. I’d torqued the bolts up to 35nm as per the manual. Got a lift home to get tools and had it fixed, looks like no significant damage done, and rode 3 miles home SLOWLY. All looks normal and I’m convinced I’d torqued the bolts up. Now I’m twitched though - anybody any thoughts or experienced anything like this?
when you checked pinch bolts were they tight/about right or easy to turn? is it possible you read off wrong scale on torque wrench? - only a first thought if it is of the type that has several alternative scales engraved on shaft.
Pretty sure it’s the right scale. Bolts didn’t seem loose either although difficult to tell when undoing them. I should have undone them with the torque wrench I suppose?
Wow! Can’t say I have ever heard of that on a sssa. Unless it’s a hub failure, can only be the pinch bolts that are loose??
Seen it before on a couple of occasions. Always tighten the pinch bolts down 1-2-1-2 Only other thing is to check the arm hasn’t cracked thru over tightening. The bolts would remain tight, but the hub would be loose
don't forget that both pinch bolts should have 'Grease B' applied - if threads are particularly dry/grease-free then a lower effective torque will result when tightened to the figure specified. GREASE B Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature resistant. SHELL Retinax HDX2
How ?? It'll be harder to do them up granted, but a lower effective torque ?? Once they are torqued up and the torque wrench clicks at the specified torque, then thats it surely ??
Surely if it was a hub failure the hub would remain locked in position but break down internally meaning the eccentric outer would stay in place?
I’m hoping it’s a simple as me being a moron and exactly that but will have a close inspection of everything in the next couple of days.
Not sure Ti bolts suitable. In areas like this I prefer ductile bolts. Experience of drilling out a sheared Ti bolt fills me with unhappy memories. I had to do this on my 916 swingarm after just nipping it to torque and the fecker sheared. It was a hollow Ti, so it only took me a whole weekend.
Isn’t There a difference in torque values for ti? And don’t they behave differently to certain geese that steel? @Chris
You’re totally right Paul, and rather than open this ‘can of worms’ on here, it’s better for me to just withdraw and let everyone read up on their respective sources that they trust to be true. Is a well known fact that adding lubricant to a thread will make it more likely (If specific instructions were given that no lubricant should be used) to be overtightened if someone insists on using a torquewrench as their only reference to decide how tight it should be, and same goes for vice-versa of course. Best example is the tiny fixings on the (Ducati) dry clutch spring retainers as these are renowned for getting stripped in the wrong hands ( so at the best of times) , but if they were massively lubed up with grease then people would tend to strip them even more.
I should add that I suspect the crappy old draper torque wrench I had was my main suspect. I now have a set of calibrated Norbars and the old draper is languishing somewhere in the dark gloomy pits of my garage. Never had any issues since I put my hand in my pocket for better tools. Plus I prefer ductile everywhere.
Might be obvious but are you sure the bolts are the same length as the oem ones, if longer they may have just bottomed out
