My bikes just coming up to 15K. Chain has not shown any sign of coming to the end of it's life but I have 2 trips in the Summer and I don't want it to start failing while in Europe. Conversely, I don't want to replace it if there's another 5-10K of life in it. So how many have changed their chain (due to wear, not bling!) and how many miles? + what was it's condition? Also did you get a warning of it stretching, or run out of adjustment? Cheers
I changed the Chain and both sprockets at 20K (Miles), chain looked good as did the rear sprocket but the front was definitely worn, not hooked just worn out. No signs of wear when riding and no need to do more than the usual chain adjustment - for me about every 4-5k. Best to take of the front sprocket cover, clean out the gunk and visually inspect the sprocket. That will tell you if it needs changing, I decided to have both sprockets and the chain done at the same time, maybe the rear would have lasted longer but best to change them all in one go.
Always better to change the chain and sprockets together, that way you know they're wearing evenly. If it's staying in adjustment and doesn't feel rough, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Mine exploded at 12k accelerating hard at around 120 mph and took out both chain covers and scratched swimgarm and suspension coil. No joke. Anyway, i promised myself if I ever thought it may need replacing I would do it ASAP. Anyway at the time I was commuting and I got about one or two weeks notice where it stretched Suddelndy then adjusted it and then on the fated trip i do remember a couple of clicks but nothing major. But u should be all right. Bugs
Over 15K miles now and noticed a couple of tight spots when lubing at weekend. will look for a replacement soon don't fancy the bill from a broken chain.
Thanks all. So the consensus seems to be 15-20K and I will take the advice and check and clean the front sprocket Absolutely agree about replacing as a complete set as an old sprocket would prematurely age the chain. When that time comes I may even consider another tooth on the rear sprocket.
Dunno how its going to be on a twin, but on the jap 4 cylinder bikes up to 600cc I've had its always been two chains to a set of sprockets. The second chain always lasted as well as the first, and even after two chains they were still in good shape. I avoid aluminum sprockets like the plague, as there is simply no reason for them - they cost more, don't last and are not as strong. If you really need to loose the 500g difference, put 1/2 liter less fuel in, or have slimfast for breakfast.
On a torquey twin like the MTS I'd make it a dead set given to do chain/sprockets together. Wear or no wear on the sprockets. Agreed re aluminum sprockets. Rubbish.
My chain was history at 10,000 miles. Yes I know how to adjust and lube a chain having ridden for 35 years and well over half a million miles. I also don't believe in running chains that are showing signs of wear like tight spots or seized links as the cost of a chain snapping is usually very expensive and sometimes knackered crank cases. I'd rather replace it a bit early and be safe than sorry.
Depends on your biking style. For most people 10,000 miles is plenty of life for a chain and they'll happily replace it at that milestone. But for more hardy everyday riders, well they'd want a lot more mileage out of their chain. I've no idea how long chains last; I buy secondhand bikes, and the first thing I do is replace the chain and sprockets, just for peace of mind. At most they've got about 7 or 8000 miles on them when I sell, and they're usually good as new still.
The chain and sprockets on my recently purchased MTS were replaced at the 15,000 mile service. From experience with my previous bikes, chains usually last about 14-15,000 miles when they start to get tight spots. I find that the front sprocket wears much faster and usually change it every 7,000 mies or so. I know people say you should change them all at the same time but it's obvious that if you have good chain and rear sprocket it makes sense to replace the front one if it's worn.
I came across some good advice; Look at the teeth on the rear sprocket. If they aren't hooked the sprocket is OK. Also try gripping the chain on the rear sprocket at 3 o'clock and try to pull it away from the sprocket. If it doesn't move, the chain and sprocket are fine. If you see daylight, time to change. I am still firmly in the "replace the whole set" camp.
Please, please, always change as a set on a road bike (race bikes have are different). You don't need a tool. If you can see wear on the rear sprocket then replace the chain and both cogs. The chain is biggest cost!
I replaced the chain and sprockets on my MTS1200 at 32,000km with DID chain and AFAM sprockets. I went with standard sized sprockets. I ride in all weathers and I found the standard Regina chain to be pretty poor and no matter how you maintained it and what you coated it with, the side plates rusted really easily and rapidly. I figured that what goes on on the outside (rust) goes on on the inside. For the record, I also totally agree that it is far better (no, make that vital) to replace the entire chain and sprocket set together. The reason is a bit chicken and egg but I see it this way. Normally, the chain wears in use in that the rotation of the pins and plates wears the pins and causes the chain to very gradually become longer or stretch. This stretched chain becomes a longer pitch than the sprockets and the sprocket teeth will then wear. If left alone, eventually the teeth will wear so much the chain may jump off the sprocket. If you replace the chain only, the worn sprocket teeth will damage the chain very rapidly. The other major issue is that if there is corrosion internally due to road salt, pressure washing, poor maintenance or just a poorly made chain, that the chain may start to seize up, heat up internally, wear very fast and break (as someone reported above). Either of these events is bad but worse on a 150hp bike with the taps open. I bought one of these sets 530 Superlite RS7 Steel Sprocket and Chain Kit except at the time I got an AFAM rear sprocket and did it myself. You will need a way to cut the chain to length and a chain rivet tool. I would never use a clip link on a bike like this. They are the bit that fails. I must say I am very happy with the DID 530 ZVMX series Ultra Heavy Duty X'ring chain. I have 10,000km on it now and it looks new, is quiet and I have only adjusted it once last week by a few mm. The original chain needed adjustments every month or so getting more frequent untill it started to seize up at about 30,000km. The problem with my first Regina chain was not chain stretch and sprocket wear, it was internal corrosion and this is far more dangerous. And, we don't get road salt down in the antipodes.
replace it before you go to europe, you don't want your trip blighted by the chain failing en route want you chain to last longer - fit a scotoiler
I was going to say for peace of mind especially as your going abroad to change it if your having thoughts to avoid any mishaps while away. I think my SS had the original chain and sprockets and I had to replace them all at 22,000 as the teeth had rounded off on both sprockets