Tested the ktech shock today and frig me it’s good Can’t beleive how shit the standard item is by comparison MCT made it better but the proper shock is way better again Much better support and damping control is a different league. Can’t believe how much better it is at turning into right corners as the old shock was wallowing by the feel of it. Always felt the bike was dragging its arse. Will be getting it properly set up next month by 100% but for now we’ll pleased.
Very interesting reading and something I have done myself, I went with Ohlins 30 mm cartridge on the front and Ohlins TTX GP on the rear, after some time I found the rear either too hard or too soft, I changed springs from a 90,95,100 and a105 but this really didn’t help.i only use my bike on the road and just couldn’t get the TTX set up nice. I had it rebuilt but again it didn’t help. after speaking with some proper suspension people it was obvious that the TTX was too biased towards track use and really my use on road meant I struggled to make it compliant for me. The front cartridge again after some spring changes and fine tuning meant it was good. In the end I decided to sell the TTX and get a WP shock custom made for my style of riding, since fitting some 10,00 miles later I am glad I made the change, the Ohlins just did not suit my riding. Best of all is that my shock also has high and low speed damping to which the TTX does not . I certainly think Ohlins is good stuff but not necessarily the best for road riders who encounter pot holes and greasy roads. The point I would make is that you don’t necessarily have to spend thousands to get a good set up, but really speaking to people who understand what you require is the key.
If you get one, especially new, it’s important to have it built for the right purpose. So if it’s mainly road, they can valve it correctly. And it’s cheaper, and often better, to have the front standard ones rebuilt properly with a valve kit than add a cartridge kit, as for the road it’s not really need IMO
I think Andreani do a valve kit/modded shim stack and pistons. Probably not up there with a full internal job, but going to be cheaper.
If you cant get a good preload setting easily, it’s the ideal cheap first step. Don’t know how the new stuff works for oil level etc but that’s another shortcut
