Luca Are these the same electrical issues you had on various Ducatisti threads or is this a different bike? Glad to hear you are OK after an off, bike can be repaired, but electrics seem to be a recurring issue for you?
Roy I had major starting issues on monster (except failed rectifier sorted by Rosso Corse) before rebuild and some time after until entire loom was changed, starter motor wires upgraded and extra earth connected to starter and few more to engine. Those were Ducatisti posts. Until those mods were done I burned 3 starter motors, 2 relays and ignition relay. Loom was checked and new dash connected about a year ago saying that if bike started it run fine during all this time. It appears that either small critters chewed on loom when bike was in bits for couple of months or routing of part of loom going to fuse box is inherently wrong as I had ignition fuse blowing issue on my 1st monster back in the day that was traced to the same area. This issue is the worst type electrical one as I run the bike for hours on stand on Saturday trying to find the fault. Could not make it blow fuse unless riding. I found A fault, broken wire, so fixed it and went out to play on Sunday well rest is history.
I think I got forks to align. Dropped bike on floor, jumped forks up and down loosening bottom yoke then top then one side each. After I was done lifted it and all was aligned as far as I could see. Reassembled the wheel and spindle did go through bottoms without major issues. Fitted bars dropped bike and put front wheel exactly straight, in that position bottom, top yoke, forks and bars look aligned. Right disc is fucked but I think I have spare. At the end had to drill out the pin holding clutch lever in place, any one got a broken 749/999 style master and could extract lever pin from it for me? Finally concentrated on loom, the usual monster suspect around head stock was checked and no sign of damage, moved my ignitech box to better location so I could move all but two wires from running on the side of battery to make sure there is no contact with tank. All in all good days work.
Luca Seriously get someone to check your bike over, it's your life at stake if the top or bottom yoke has an issue and next time the failure might not be at 10mph-20mph!! We need you on here mate, you are one of the reasons I keep reading posts, so get it checked!
Ok questions time. This little screw thing that holds the head stock and bottom yoke in place. It is flush on one side and has a recess on the other. Is there a right way up on it? View attachment 1427 Also what is this little bolt called, I know it has a name. It is the one that goes in to bottom yoke stem (stem?)? It is probably the reason why my forks twisted so much in yokes, most of the thread on that alloy screw has stripped and was left inside the bottom yoke stem. View attachment 1428
The first pic= steering stem bearing adjuster ring ?, 2nd pic= steering stem top cap nut.no you wont find/fit one to the bottom of the stem. brian.
pretty sure your headstock nut is different top/bottom - won't take long to whip it off and check though? The aluminium 'bolt' in bottom picture is partly cosmetic tbh - some might call it a 'top yoke retaining bolt'* but in truth, once you've tapped the top yoke right down, the caphead clamp screw in the top yoke does most of the work - that 'bolt' is just a back-up which you can carefully tighten to confirm there is no gap left before tightening caphead screw. EDIT - *seems 'Ebay people' call it a 'yoke nut'
I knew I used wrong names. 1st one yes sounds more like it now 2nd one I need another one as my one has no thread left at all on one side Chris I have no head stock nut at the bottom of yoke unless there is one retaining stem but I am not touching that. What I mean is steering stem bearing adjuster nut thing does it matter which side up it goes on the stem? As said one side has a grove but it makes no difference to bearings as there is a steel spacer between nut and bearings that covers the entire bearing so no dirt/water gets in (right that works ). The top yoke retaining bolt well I need that as my one has no thread left on most of it and it was fine before. I know it got damaged in this fall. The brass screw in the cap-head clamp also got damaged but it was brass (cheese) so no surprise there. Replaced it now with steel one. So ebay search names: Top yoke retaining bolt Steering stem top cap (how did predictive texting turned top cap in to "to cup")? any other names? Top yoke slides in on the forks with mostly no help, I say mostly as when it is already fully on it needs little bump with hand to slide all the way down. In other words forks and yokes align now perfectly. Issue were my 1mm thick steel braces I have to fit together with forks to bottom yoke. They got squashed a bit. Thing is I was at right state of mind when I had them made to get a spare pair done as well. Well I need a new spare pair. Repeat of previous question any one got a broken 749 master that still has the pin holding levers in place in it? I need one pin.
Bloody hell Lucasz....you must have done something real bad in a previous life.....I have a set of Monster yokes here I think.....
regarding 'headstock nut' (factory do up with 'C' spanner but we use a blunt punch?) - it was my fault for not writing with more detail :- yes, i know there is no nut at the bottom of headstock stem between bottom headstock bearing and bottom yoke - when I said 'different top/bottom' I meant the top face and the bottom face of that (top) nut that you show in your (top) picture. Can't remember exactly but if it's same as Elefant then that nut also adjusts play of headstock bearings and crudely relies on top yoke being clamped down on it to prevent it turning (and making play in headstock). I'm not sure why you need to know if it is the right way up, but put your engineer's cap on - remove nut and study like Sherlock Holmes - you will be able to work out if it matters which way up - one clue is that the burrs on the castellated-type slots (for doing it up) are most likely showing on top face more than bottom (if you see what i mean?). I think you already know that Ducati were a bit naughty with original headstock bearings and use inferior races that don't tend to last long due to wearing quicker than (lovely) taper roller type - not to mention corrosion. I've found that people tighten down the top yoke retaining bolt really hard in a frustrated attempt at taking the play out of the (original type) headstock bearings whereas in reality they are adjusted as far as they will go and they are worn. I will also have a search for that top aluminium nut thing.
Ducati Monster Top Yoke Stem / Ring Nut | eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Mo...56?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45f956c3e8 old type had tank breather tube?
The bearing adjuster has a recess in it ,look at the underside of your top yoke it might have a ring of aluminium that is the same dimensions as the recess. The Stem nut has no threads or very few as i would say some one tried to fit the top yoke and stem nut with the weight of the bike on the forks, not supported as it should with the weight off the front suspension.. just my thoughts.
yes, going along thanks. Got a few interesting things on the horizon. Hopefully things to talk about later in the year.
I think I was Hitler or Herman Goering the least with all shit that is happening around me lately. It also looks like more is coming.... Yokes are fine David all aligns ok now on it's own. I do however need a bolt that attaches foot peg I assume that is just stainless steel bolt? I also need the tip of the brake lever that toes rest on to push it as that snapped. You have those? Would you also have a spare pin for clutch master lever? Chris I noticed those and was going to ask later if m600 and m750 one's will fit? So I can assume they will yes? Can not reply to that as nut was fine prior to incident now it is not. I always try and support the bike off the ground when doing forks as it makes things easier. Now after incident I tried fitting it when putting bike back together to notice no thread and ask questions. The bearing adjuster. I did ask as if there is difference would like to know. I did also say that I do not see how it would make difference as there is the metal spacer between bearing and bearing adjuster so bearing can not sit in the grove in any way. The top yoke is flush under as well so it got me thinking if there was a spacer there or something.
cannot say 100% here (one for David) without taking both off but they look v. similar (so not much help) EDIT I've just rembered! - it wasn't for tank breather tube it was for choke cable!!! (early) Both my M900 and M600 are also flush (no gap) under top nut also.
