1200 DVT Brakes

Don’t sound right there mine could stop the world ! They’re not seized up are they ? What pads are in there ? This setup has to be one of the best I’ve used ...

 

Something major wrong there BA
The front brakes on these things are brilliant, do they improve if you pump the lever ?
And secondly I can't believe you have a back brake that works

 

IMHO, the Multi suffers from excessive front dive under braking. Which is why I’m taking mine to Reactive Suspension for a set up session.

From experience, the brakes respond well to bleeding but I think they are more powerful than they feel, because of that front dive.

 

Also worth checking that your pads aren’t glazed.

 

https://www.quora.com/Why-do-brake-pads-glaze

 

Bleed your front brake. Better still, change the fluid and then bleed them. If you are not confident, let your local motorbike shop do the job - no need to be a Ducati dealer for that.

 

DVT 1200 and 1260 brakes are awesome, so you clearly have an issue somewhere.

Things to check -

Colour of the fluid in the brake reservoir - if it's dark then change it.

Level of fluid in the brake reservoir - if it's low then top it up, however that's also an indication that your pads are worn.

Pads - if you've only got a few millimetres on the pads they're due for a change, but check for even wear on both pads on each side. Anything uneven will indicate that a piston is sticking which will have an effect brake power.

Surface of your disks - any scoring or anything other than a perfectly flat and smooth surface will affect performance and will need replacing.

Disk and pad contamination - have a look at your fork stations for any oily residue which could indicate a leaking fork seal. In extreme cases, if the bike is left on the side stand with a leaking seal then the fork oil could find it's way onto your brake disks. Have a think about how you might have used products like ACF-50 or any silicone sprays. It's not unknown for even a light coating of silicon accidentally finding it's way onto a brake disk to create such irreversible contamination that the only way to remediate it is new pads and disks. Silicone contamination is the scourge of many a production line in a controlled environment.

Have you had to recall done on your brakes yet?

 

Nothing wrong with the brakes on my enduro. Sure occasionally its worth pumping the front-brake before setting off to get a nice tight feel on the front. But they've shouldn't feel spongy or not upto the job for the speed the bikes can do.

 

Just wind the lever out further. Further out, harder initial bite.

 

I also thought my front brake was just average. The lever comes far back but pumping the lever improves the bite. Snells kindly bled the brakes for me while i waited but there was no real improvement. Could it be that the basic DVT Brembos which are a lesser model that on the DVT S are less powerful. I have learned to live with it as they are no worse than my old GSX1250

 

Just wind it out further and try that.

When I take mine on track or very fast road rides, I wind out as far as I can to still reach the lever. It makes initial bite a lot firmer and won’t come to the bar. For regular riding, I like more feel and comfort so wind into bar and it gives a solfter lever that, under emergency braking, will come to the bar.

 

No it is not standard, it's a serious defect. The brakes are outstandingly good, or they should be. Posts in this thread have suggested some lines of enquiry - I suggest following them urgently, until the brakes are sorted.

 

I also thought my front brake was just average. The lever comes far back but pumping the lever improves the bite. Snells kindly bled the brakes for me while i waited but there was no real improvement. Could it be that the basic DVT Brembos which are a lesser model that on the DVT S are less powerful. I have learned to live with it as they are no worse than my old GSX1250

 

My brakes are excellent too, however I’ve ridden a few other bikes (panigale, Speed Triple RS, monster R) with M50’s and other models of Brembo a and I’ve been much more impressed with them ( mainly on initial bite )

I think the multi has quite a progressive master cylinder than most bikes with huge Brembos. Maybe a bit smaller bore to make them a bit less aggressive?

Still very good brakes, get yours looked at!

 

If pumping the lever improves the brake, you have air in the system, and if after Snells have "bled" your brakes and their still the same, Snells ain't done it right.

 

I'm inclined to agree, however if they have done it right then it might indicate a duff hose. If someone returned to them with the same issue after it's been bled then they should pick up on this and suggest replacement lines.

Another thing to consider is that big callipers can take a lot of bleeding and I'm not convinced that your everyday main dealers keep up with the changes required for new tech and stick with age-old methods which, as time goes on and products evolve, loose their efficacy. Four pots need more bleeding than two pot callipers, and six pots are a bloody nightmare. In fact, with six pots a lot of race-inclined folk bleed the system off the bike as it allows you to get the calliper above the master cylinder which really helps to get trapped air to rise up and out of the system. Something to keep in mind.

 

Reading this made me remembers I need to do my clutch as it was getting a little grabby, so bled both while I was there. Only m/c end, and sure enough both had a couple of bubble of air.

If it were me, I'd:
1) bleed the top nipple
2) wind the adjuster all the way out
3) try that

BTW if its a DVT have you have the brembo recall done?

 

it is difficult with the guard in place. I use long nose pliers, and you need to push the lever out as far as it goes against the stop as that makes it easier to adjust with the primers. Fiddly tho