OK, bit of a roadblock here.... your Inventor is newer than my Inventor and AutoDesk likes our money too much to use a standard fucking code Not even my MasterCam can open it, and it's MCam 2018! Says the file is newer than R20 or "not a valid Inventor file." I hate to ask you for more, but might you be able to export or save the model as... well, any other file type? I'd imagine a simple R12/L12 DXF would be safe, though that may lose some geometry or constraints... maybe an IGES or something? I'm not driving toolpaths off it so it doesn't need to translate perfectly as long as I can pull dims. Or, if it's easier, the dimensions I need are: 1. Minor diameter of groove in section B-4 2. Location of groove in section B-4 3. Inner diameter of part at base in section B-4 4. Inner diameter of part at top in section B-5 5. Angle of taper. 6. Radius of transition between inner taper and straight section. 7. Location of said radius. And let me know how I can repay the favor! Seriously, this is super helpful.
Hi, I feel your pain with the inventor file versions ,I've ran into that issue many times before! I've double checked some of the dimensions and updated them on the files. I've converted it to an IGES and re-opened it in inventor and all of the geometry stays the same. If it's more convenient for you it's also possible to open inventor ipt files in Solidworks too, when you're looking for the file to open in Solidworks you've just gotta change the file type to ipt and it should open. I've uploaded both of the updated files here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=18Cv69IQMc0NzhE-TICFth2a-2FAsUYud
Unfortunately the transition between the taper and the inner straight section isn't a constant radius, I did try dimensioning the radii however the two sides cam out uneven (even though the part was revolved meaning it is symmetrical). Both of the start points of the curve are dimensioned so I guess you'll just have to "join the dots" when machining it. Here's a copy of the drawing in dwfx format (can be opened on any windows PC using XPS viewer): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1RX6nXsLHL3b4w_c9LkcS1jgOfQJNhw7p
Perfect! You, sir, deserve a medal. As for that inner radius... hand measured at ~38mm, part made by an American company, I'd wager it's a 1.5" rad with an odd blend.
Hey @Neeps, run into a bit of a problem. The RC-3250 filters I ordered showed up last night and I just turned up a test piece to check fitment. It doesn't. Long story short, hold off on buying your filters as the 3250's don't come close to fitting. I called up Bellissimoto and the guy on the phone didn't know the part number off the top of his head, but he said that it almost certainly was NOT 3250 and that it was a 4xxx. He had me email him via the website and when he finds the info he'll send it over, and I'll update here once that happens. I believe the 3250 may be for the non-R version of these stacks.
Ah that sucks, fortunately I haven't ordered any filters yet! What diameter was the test piece? From reading other peoples experiences with installation it seems that it's really hard to get the rubber flange over the 91mm OD, so most resort to using a heat gun or hair drier.
Alright, I was wrong. The RC-3250 is in fact the correct filter to use, and it does NEED heat and lube to install. Bellissimoto, unfortunately, was not much help here... apparently, when they bought the design/rights/whatever from TPO, they didn't get ANY information to go with it and were pretty much taking (incorrect) guesses at things. I get the impression they may have been shipping the non-R size filter with the -R versions by mistake. I also spoke with K&N, who were dumbfounded as to how any of their filters might fit over such a contraption with an inserted portion being larger than the flange diameter. "Our rubber compound simply won't allow that to work." Right. Finding Belli and K&N to be useless, I put the googler in overdrive and dug up some pics which I can no longer find now that confirm that they used to ship with the 3250's AND that they do, in fact, fit. So I went ahead and made the parts to print (exact dimensions as given). Results: Easy enough job, and I have plenty of scrap 7075 lumps laying about. Did have to make a special tool for the 1,5mm radius groove at the throttle body end though. Then gave them to our alodine guy, because why not. Smoke em if you got em, right? 10 min later they came back looking like this: Getting the filters on went much better than hoped. You can see here where the problem comes from, that rubber flange is a good 10mm thick and the bell end of the stack just dwarfs it. You can also see where some of the fins of the filter are bent near the base, which was my signal to quit the initial install attempt the other day. I left them outside in the sun, open end up, from dawn until around 1pm. Then at the time of installation I hit the opening with a heat gun and smeared it with assembly lube. The stacks popped right in with hardly any effort, in contrast to the hopeless attempt at putting the test piece in without heat or lube. I'm glad that initial attempt didn't work though, as I'm not sure I'd have been able to get it out. Bit better looking than the airbox I think. Butt-dyno tomorrow, will report back. PS thanks again Neeps!
Great thread, just a question, is there enough room for non conical filters, & if so what is availble, only K & N?
No worries man and wow, they look fantastic! I especially like the colour Also good to hear that the filters did fit after all, I just wish K&N's didn't cost a fortune in the UK otherwise I'd order a pair myself
Not so cheap here either mate, they run around $50/£38 per here. But, a quick glance at ebay.co.uk seems that sellers are listing them at £50, a common theme I've found of items having the symbol changed but not actually having value converted. You could go on ebay.com, the US version, and get them for around £38 per with free shipping. These are the ones I ordered, seller was prompt with sending them out... https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-RC-3250-Universal-Clamp-on-Air-Filter/222454067725
I suppose it would depend on the size of the filters. There's certainly no shortage of room in there with the airbox out though, and these 3250's were much larger than I had expected them to be and there's still room for bigger. K&N makes cylindrical non-tapered as well as oval shape filters... https://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm Not entirely sure what else is out there.
Just got back from a little butt-dyno, quick run up to the dealer to reset my service light. The engine spins much more freely... revs feel looser and easier, throttle response is smoother, engine breaking is weaker (more like a jap bike now than like hitting a fookin wall as it was before). That last bit isn't necessarily a good or a bad thing, it depends on your preferences, but I will say that it's a significant enough difference that my actual braking habits need to adapt accordingly. Definitely a bit more power too. It doesn't bog down as much when releasing the clutch to come out of a stop, and it's especially noticeable on the top end with more pull and useable power over 6k RPM. It was running a bit warmer than normal on the way up to the dealer, around 107°C vs it's old norm of around 101°, indicating a slightly lean (or at least leaner) condition. On the way back though it was closer to normal, maybe that the ECU was learning and compensating or it could have been that the ECU had no learning data in it on the way up (as it reset with the battery out) and was just going on it's programmed baseline... depends on how it was tuned, the preferences of the tuner and the capabilities of the ECU. I'm not familiar with these in that way, but on my rally/hillclimb car when the ECU resets it retards timing and scales back some other parameters until it actually sees and learns what the engine is doing. I'll be heading out for a proper ride tomorrow in the mountains, I'll have a better idea of any increases in operating temp after that. Overall I'd say this is an upgrade worth doing
Would you have any idea how big the gap between the bases of the filters is? It doesn't need to be an exact measurement just an eyeball as it's quite hard to tell from the pics. RamAir seem to be ignoring my emails about the custom filters now so I'm considering purchasing one of their other filters although it has a 145mm wide base vs the K&N's 127mm wide base So I'm unsure if there will be enough room. Cheers!
Not much clearance at all I'm afraid. I'd guess it to be 4-5mm or so. Was able to get a pic from below the left side fairing... Though, it's worth mentioning that the angle these sit at can be fudged a bit. They connect via the elbows that the OEM airbox sat on, so the elbows could be rotated away from each other a bit to increase the clearance between the filters. How much, I'm not sure, but the possibility is there.
Just bolting K&N's to the throttle bodies could potentially result in a loss of power vs the stock airbox (due to massively reducing the length of the intake tract). Whereas the velocity stacks + filters will make either comparable or greater power than the MWR lid.
I'm currently in the middle of doing a belt change + valve adjustment on the bike so I've ended up purchasing a set of K&N RC-3250's as I don't wanna risk wasting money/time on incorrectly fitting filters, I also had a concern about the flexibility of the flange on the RamAir filter too after inspecting the one on my car, it'd be a disaster if I were to purchase a set of filters and lube them up (thereby making them non-returnable) only to find that they don't fit on the stacks. I received the filters on Friday and like @mcantar said, in person they seem larger than you might expect! I've also purchased a set of water repellent Outerwears pre-filters too (only $55.90 for the pair including the cheapest shipping option, USPS first class), that was on the 4th (last Monday) and they're already in the UK as of 7 am GMT on the 8th, fantastic service!. The front section of my MWR HE filter was caked in dust after ~2500 miles along with a thin film of fine dirt inside of the airbox and intake pipes, fortunately there was no distinguishable individual particles so hopefully it hasn't caused any excessive engine wear. I expect he K&N + Pre-filter will do a much better job at preventing this from happening again, so here's hoping that they don't get stuck in customs!
