New suspension settings

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by ojobear, Mar 7, 2012.

  1. Anyone know where I can get an explanation on all these big words......like pre-load, sag, dampening, compression and generally how the suspension on an MTS 1200 works? I thought the suspension takes away the vibrations from the road and keep the wheels on the ground....but now it seems a bit more technical than that...:wink:
     
  2. Can anyone give me some figures on your suspension settings I'm 185 lbs.
     
  3. Sounds like a lot of money and trouble to get someone else to set up your suspension when Ducati have made it so easy on the S model. Since very few people use the enduro settings, why not use them to try experimental changes. If you are trying to improve the Sport settings, reset all the enduro settings to the same as Sport and then try changes like increasing front compression damping to reduce dive etc. Same if you want to improve Touring. If you like the results, copy them over to Sport/Touring (or leave them where they are and just switch to Enduro), if not you can go back to all the stock settings on the other three modes at the flick of a switch. The only real way to understand suspension, even after you have read all about it, is by making your own changes and testing by seat of the pants. The S model is ideally designed for such experimentation. Just in passing, while everybody is trying to make the bike stiffer and stiffer (and more uncomfortable), I have found that reduced damping, back and front, made a much better ride for touring while the stock Sport solo settings worked very well on track with maybe a little extra compression damping on the front. The standard performance recommendations about static sag don't work on the Multi because it has long travel suspension and soft springs. Even the heavier rear spring, which I have fitted, won't easily achieve the kind of static sag recommended for best handling. Fortunately the bike doesn't know this and gets round corners more than adequately. Whatever you do to the settings won't change the bike's essential characteristics - it still has long travel on the front - but, even on track, an appreciation of those characteristics and a smooth riding style can get you round quicker than most. On the road, what exactly was the point of buying a sit-up, comfortable bike then making the suspension as uncomfortable as a super-sports in the vain belief that it will get you round that (potentially gravel strewn) corner just a bit quicker? Want some cornering excitement - take it on track. Even there, your ability will probably be more of a limitation than the suspension settings.
     
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  4. Easy, as opposed to those pesky and fiendishly difficult clickers on the non-S model :biggrin:

    As above, without testing the changes how is one to know the improvement - but this requires correct conversion of what you interpret as feeling through the seat vs what the suspension is *actually* doing. And sometimes this can be deceiving - a little expert help never hurts.

    A proper suspension setup session should send you out several times to test during the process - anything less isn't really worth the money.
     
  5. In my country nobody charges for suspension adjustment because nobody really knows if it runs it's ok. If not there must be something wrong. I found out the pre load in the rear was set to one so I set it to five, felt stiffer but need to test more. I only kno pre load stiffens the shock should I set it back to one? The roads here are cracked cement roads with rocks n holes. No racetrack just a volcano with frequent earthquakes. So I need all the suspension knowledge I can get. Thanks viewdvb and Doodle.
     
  6. Is there anybody here around 185 lbs that had their suspension set up properly I'd like to get th figures and copy them and that will leave me with a great saving of time because all I'll have to do is test the bike and make minor adjustments instead of a long search towards the perfect settings which doesn't exist but the best settings are available. I deeply appreciate any generosity of information concerning the figures front and rear. I think this I practical for me. I'm in an island with no Ducati mechanic or dealer.
     
  7. Sorry its been a while guys but I am a Publican and I have been very busy. No excuse today though( 4 inch of snow in Pudsey). Had the suspension tweeked a few weeks ago and been out a couple of times to try out. The feedback is very positive. The sport mode has been the only setting to be altered and it does make a tremendous difference. Now, I don't understand the physics of how these things work but I am aware that sports cars for instance, go round corners quicker than family saloons and it is all to do with suspension set up and the chassis. The guy that did mine obviously concentrated on the suspension to front and rear and basically stiffened everything up. He did have problems however. The Ohlin springs are very soft and no matter what he did electronically it didn't make much differance. Both front forks got 3 full turns each ( I think they are damping and rebound but don't hold me to that) on top of the electronics nearly being stiffened up to the max. I will post the numbers for my personal settings should anyone be interested.
    I tested the bike on the road between Kilnsley and Buckden in North Yorkshire. Many of you will know it well. The journey was made twice, first in Sport then Touring. Very narrow road at times, very bumpy going in and coming out of bends and you have to have your wits about you. The interesting bit. I tried to drive the bike in touring mode exactly the same as sport and could not do it, nowhere near, nearly came a cropper a number of times. It just would not go round the bends anywhere near as fast sport mode. Before my thoughts on the 2 modes were two fold, plusher ride in touring and tougher to keep up with your pals in touring due to the slower throttle response. Not now, and that can only be down to the adjusted suspension. The braking is also improved due to less dive at the front end when giving it a good old tug. Overall very happy considering the springs are that soft that alterations can't be too radical and it cost £25.
    I will post electronic settings when I get chance, off to pull more pints now!!!!!
     
  8. Thanks Ojobear, 3 clicks to the ight or left? My settings are no all set to the middle in all modes 16/16
     
  9. Carlin Dunne told me to set all to the middle then start adjusting from there.
     
  10. How did you end up talking to Carlin Dunne.....you know him?!
     
  11. I emailed his shop. Here's a copy

    Hi Adrian, our pikes peak bike had marzocchi suspension with handmade internal valving from Race Tech. The settings on that bike would not be applicable for your bike. My suggestion for you is to take all the settings to there center points then start working from there. Every bike and rider is different and the proper settings must be achieved by trial and error. Sorry we cant be more help.

    On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 6:16 AM, <[email protected]> wrote:
    First Name: Adrian
    Last Name: Campos
    Work Phone: 09173011692
    Email Address: [email protected]
    Comments: Dear Ducati Dealer,

    I would like to request the suspension values on the front and rear of
    your winning multistrada if possible because the roads here are just like
    the Pikes Peak route. It would truly save me a lot of time and effort. I
    have a 1200s also and I know that compression and rebound would vary but
    these would be the values I'd like to start my adjustments with. Plus the
    Pre Load in the rear. I would greatly appreciate an answer. Im not a whole
    lot bigger than the Champion Carlin Dunne. I hope this request is
    appropriate. Im based in an island in the Philippines.

    [ContactUsMobile]





    --
    Carlin Dunne
    Specialist
    Ducati Of Santa Barbara
    P:(805) 884-8443
    F:(805) 884-4648
    Ducati of Santa Barbara in California offers new and used Ducati motorcycle parts, accessories & maintenance.
     
  12. Internal valving is the best but risky without experience on my part.
     
  13. Thank you so much Andy. I will ask them. I tested the bike yesterday with all settings to the middle including pre load. It was soft got to adjust it harder no shakes no chatter just running a bit wider on corners.
     
  14. Ojobear - Remember that if you like the touring mode suspension but don't like the touring engine mode, it is only a few button presses to change the engine setting in touring mode to sports without affecting the suspension settings.
     
  15. How in Gods teeth do you do that old been!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  16. Ojobear , please post your sport suspension settings numbers then the three turns ou mentioned were they clockwise or counter clockwise?
     
  17. OJOBEAR - I could be churlish and say “read the owners manual” but I’ll try to give clear instructions. All done on the left handlebar – three buttons top (up arrow), middle (reset) bottom (down arrow). All the possible changes are accessed by holding down the down button for 2 seconds (page 50). The circular display changes to a menu. On the menu use the down or up buttons to highlight SETUP and press reset (page 56). Use the same down or up buttons to select TOURING and press reset. Use the up/down buttons to select ENGINE and press reset (page 62). Highlight NEW SET and press reset. Use up/down to show 150 HIGH (the sport engine setting. 150 LOW is the touring setting and 100 is the urban setting) and press reset. Highlight MEMORY and hold reset down for 3+ seconds to store the new setting. It will display the changed setting at the top under ENGINE. Down to EXIT and select. Highlight EXIT and press reset. Highlight EXIT and press reset. Highlight EXIT and press reset. You are now back at the normal screen. I usually make changes with the engine running as all this drains the battery a bit. Not a problem if you have the means to trickle charge the battery afterwards.
     
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