Hi if you have a ST3 then you may find that you can replace the actuator on your clutch switch without having to replace the whole switch unit at a cost of £45.00. The switch is a Burgess V4NCS but the push button actuator is available separately from most electronics outlets for £4.00 (Long overtravel actuator kit from Saia-Burgess Mfr. Part No. QA4). You just unclick the broken part and click the new fitting into place. If you need to replace the whole switch then order a V4NCS and the actuator. I used RS Components for mine. Safe riding. Barry
I've been looking for a replacement headlight for my '85 750 F1. The original Ducati part numbers are Full assembly 0670.36.200 Insert only 0670.36.220 This seems to be a CEV 283 OEM part. I've also seen reference to CEV 295 but I'm not sure this is right. This seems to be equivalent to Hella 1044 - 165 x 100mm H4 Halogen Headlamp - High/Low Beam & Front Position Insert. Also available without "Front Position lamp" as Hella 1042. EDIT: Narva have a similarly suitable headlight insert as part 72066. Both the Hella and Narva units have 4 mount points in the corners whereas the headlight shell on the F1 has two screws centred vertically on each side of the headlight. I am going to fabricate a pair of brackets that bolt to the corner mount points on the insert and have a nylon are grommet in the centre to screw into. Hopefully this will allow the insert to be fitted without modification to the headlight shell.
Coolant Sensor for ST2 may fit others NEW INTERMOTOR - COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENDER UNIT - 53019 | eBay
The ST2 is water cooled? I know the ST4 is and always thought the 4 stood for 4 valve and the 2 for 2valve with the 2 valve bikes being air cooled.
Google info: for, erm...info :smileys: The Ducati ST series is a set of Italian sport touring motorcycles manufactured by Ducati between 1997 and 2007. In order of release, the series comprised five distinct models: the ST2, ST4, ST4S, ST3, and ST3S. Intended to compete with other sport-tourers such as the Honda VFR, the ST Ducatis featured a full fairing, a large dual seat and a relaxed riding position for both rider and pillion. The ST bikes had a centre-stand, and could be fitted with optional matching luggage. All five bikes in the ST series were outwardly similar, sharing the same frame, bodywork and cycle parts, but each model had a different engine, albeit that all were liquid-cooled desmodromic V-twins. The numeral after "ST" (2, 3 or 4) indicates the number of valves per cylinder. In the Ducati tradition, the frame was a tubular steel trellis item, and the conventional suspension comprised USD forks and a rear monoshock. In 2004, the ST series had a facelift, getting an updated nose, a new headlight, ABS and a weight reduction.
So the ST2 did have two valves as I thought but was also liquid cooled. Didn't know there were any liquid cooled 2 valve bikes...
The first liquid cooled 2V was the Paso 906 in 1989, shortly followed by the 907ie which was discontinued in 1992 until the advent of the ST2 in 1997. They are basically a water cooled version of the 900SS/Monster 904cc engine. This is my 907ie.
Gosh, had no idea. I always thought of the 2 valve bikes as air-cooled and 4 valve as water cooled...
Air-cooled bike in enclosed fairings while hauling luggage is never good idea hence they added water cooling. While Paso is what it is ST2 has better engine as it is 944 cc
Getting back to the original topic. The temperature sensor for the ST series mentioned above is also used on the following models:- DD16RR, 1198/1098/848, 749/999, 998, 996 & late model 748, MS4, MS4R, MS4RS, 848SF/1098SF The same sensor is used as an engine temperature sensor for :- HM1100/620, MS2R, M1000S, M900ie, M620, M695, MTS620, MTS1000, MTS1100, SS900ie, SS750ie, SS620ie, MH900e, Sport 1000s, GT1000 And probably a few more that I've missed.
I just bought the Timing / crank sensor from VDO: 324003014R and TPS sensor from Magnet Marelli Part # 40443002 for my 848. As soon as I install it and everything is working I come back here to confirm that it works.
Licence Plate Light. Hella part number: 2KA 357.014-001 This is an almost identical bolt on replacement for the original item on the 748 (and possibly others). The only differences are that the lens housing bolts onto the lamp holder via an external screw and the bulb itself is a festoon bulb. Shape and dimensions are exactly the same. I found this for my bike in South Africa so don't know how readily available they are in the UK. If anybody wants one and is having trouble finding one I'd be happy to source and bring over on my regular travels back to UK. Cost here is only about GBP2.50 equivalent.
899 PANIGALE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER OVERHAUL During a recent biking holiday in Germany, I started getting problems with my clutch, it was dragging badly in the heat ( 34c !! ) so I bought some dot 4 and bled it - no better at all! So this made me think that some of the seals may be breaking down, I didn’t think it was the slave cylinder as I was loosing no fluid, but you could hold the clutch lever in and after about 5 seconds you could feel the pressure disappear...Hmmm. With the bike engine off, but in gear, I could pull the clutch in and push the bike for about 12 feet before the engine compression would stop me ☹️ It was a bugger getting the bike back on the ferry with a dodgy clutch and not being able to slip it, you could see all the other bikers thinking “ That bloke with the Panigale’s a right nob, can’t even ride it!! ” Anyhow, I pulled the clutch master cylinder apart when I got home and discovered that the front seal had some strange scuff marks on it and under closer inspection, one of them had a tiny hole through it ( see pic below) just enough to make your clutch work for about 5 seconds before it bleeds through and you loose pressure.... Aha!!.. I knew it was a problem with the bloody master cylinder So I rang up my friendly local Ducati “stealer” to try and buy a seal kit for the clutch master cylinder, only to be told that Brembo don’t sell the seals separately, you’ll have to buy a complete master cylinder assembly... Including vat, £240!!!.......but I only need a five quid seal?? Well Mr Ducati / Brembo...you can kiss my big fat hairy Geordie arse before I pay that when all I need is one poxy seal !! So I had heard that KTM stock a few Brembo seals, but the hard part is knowing what KTM part number is the equivalent of the Ducati Brembo seal...only one way to find out,so I took myself off to Teessdale motorcycles at Thirsk armed with my trusty vernier calipers. A big thanks to Andy down there for having the patience to let me measure virtually every seal kit he had in stock, but it was worth it in the end.....WOOOHOOOO!!!! After five minutes of “fist pumping “ and high fiveing all his customers I finally calmed down enough to pay him the grand sum of £20.34......result!!! That’s a saving of about £220 on what the Ducati stealer wanted. Must remember to nip back there sometime and buy a V4 Tuono This is what you need, the long part number is the KTM reference number to order- 76013008000 Contents of the seal kit - Assembly fluid to coat the seals and cylinder bore Pack of grease for the clutch lever pushrod pin One circlip One rubber dust boot One piston assembly with both seals Old piston top, new one bottom Apart from a few drag marks, it’s only the front seal on the old piston assembly that’s knackered I think where the drilling’s for the reservoir break through into the master cylinder slightly shave the front seal and it’s a really soft shore hardness rubber and eventual it just wears through. Some tools you will need , internal circlip pliers New copper washers A 40mm length of plastic pipe with an internal bore of 15mm diameter- I’ll explain later why. And something to push the master cylinder piston back with, I’ve modified an old screwdriver and ground the end off so it’s just nice and smooth and round, also note there’s a great big blob of Blu-tack near the handle- explain this later as well So, firstly , protect your bike from any possible fluid spills, I use a few old blankets,then bleed all the fluid from the clutch circuit at the slave cylinder end, take cap off reservoir so it drains easily, then put cap back on. Using small electricians screwdriver GENTLY prise off the microswitch from the under side of the clutch lever, there are two small plastic pegs on the back of the microswitch, ffs don’t break em off!! Loosen off the hydraulic clutch line at the banjo just by half a turn, it’s easier just to crack this while the lever is still secured on the bars, then loosen the lever and hydraulic hose and take clutch lever assembly off bike. Wrap end of hydraulic hose so you don’t get any drips on your paint work. Undo the pivot nut, and unscrew the clutch pivot lever and remove clutch lever, now GENTLY prise dust seal out by inserting a small electricians screwdriver inside and levering gently at the harder edge , obviously use two hands for this, I’m holding the bloody iPhone don’t forget! Undo circlip and piston will pop out by 5mm or so, withdraw the piston assembly, the spring and the locating pin that fits in the end of the spring Now, this is where that bit of plastic pipe comes in, you need the 15mm bore to be able to load the new piston assembly into backwards so that it compresses the seals to make them easy to get back inside the master cylinder. There’s too much going on in a very small area to be able to get your fingers in there, so this loading “cassette “ will make the job so much easier . Smear the piston assembly, plastic tube and master cylinder bore with the assembly fluid And load the piston assembly backwards into the tube as below Now using some thick grease ( I have a pot where it’s gone slightly dry at the edges, that’s ideal ) put some on the end of the spring that fits inside the piston assembly and then some on the location pin and put the whole lot together as an assembly, you need to be able to hold this lot vertically without anything dropping out, you now have a Piston assembly “cassette “ as below Drop this lot vertically into the master cylinder ensuring the location pin engages correctly, Using the pushrod in your left hand, feed the assembly back into the master cylinder, don’t go nuts, you’ll just feel a couple of bumps as the seals go into the bore, You don’t need to push it too far in, just 5mm or so below the circlip groove and hold it there, note you’ll need the circlip, circlip pliers and small electricians screwdriver within easy reach of your right hand Now slide plastic pipe back up out of the way and the blu-tack will hold it back and keep it outta your way to make the next stage a bit easier Drop the circlip over the pushrod and clip it back into position Make certain it snaps into the groove by giving the ends of the circlip a bit of a push with the screwdriver, it’s important that you check it has clicked into the groove, you don’t want it dropping out when you’re halfway down the road!! Using the plunger, operate the piston gently a few times just to check it moves nice and smoothly Fill end with the Brembo grease Grease up clutch actuator pin and push dust cover back onto pin making sure it snaps back into groove on pin Offer clutch lever up at 90 degrees to master cylinder as it makes it easier to snug the seal down into its counterbore gently using a flat screwdriver, once it’s in place, rotate the lever to its correct position and screw the pivot rod back through it and fasten nut at back Pop it back on the bike, put some new copper washers on the hydraulic hose nip it all up and bleed it. I bled it from the slave cylinder first and then the master cylinder, I’m not sure if this is the correct sequence or not, but it seemed to work fine. One more thing, there’s a big green elastic band in the packet as well, once you’ve bled it, pull the lever right back to the bar and use the elastic band to hold it in position overnight, take it off in the morning and it’ll be nice n hard...fnarr, fnarr! Once that’s done, crack open a beer of your choice and congratulate yourself on saving 220 quid !! Hope this is clear and it’s helpful to someone, any questions just ask Cheers, Poucher
Your welcome mate We need to pool our knowledge to keep these bikes running at realistic prices, I’d rather spend 20 quid than 240 quid any day !!
Excellent post Poucher , superbly explained and illustrated with a bit of humor thrown in for good measure.
