I've used these for testing and repair and they were v quick/reasonable price. Could be worth a call. www.ecutesting.com
Thanks for ecutesting. They were very good, had some issues with the website but they picked it up, could not repair it and sent it back. I took out the eprom and wonder if that was the issue but they did not reply on any of the emails or calls. I have found www.bluestreak.co.uk who list the ECU and say they can fix it. Anyone had any experience with them?
I had an ecu failure last Summer and had lots of invaluable help on here to get it diagnosed and sorted. Once the ecu was pinpointed as the problem, @chrisw on here was brilliant. He located a suitable ecu, advised me on how much I should pay for it and I got it sent straight to him, he flashed it for my bike and sent it to me. I fitted it and good to go Maybe he can help you too??
Old Rider thanks, I am a bit stumped at the moment. I thought it was the ecu as I followed the ducati manual and checked many items. I found that pins 14 and 16 should have both 5volts. when 16 showed 0 volts i thought that was the issue. I sent it to ecu testing. they were very good and quick in turnaround. when it got there they could not test it for some reason. they sent it back. i then left it for a while, the other day sent it bluestreak electronics, they have a 916 ecu on their site. sent my ecu and today they told me that pin 16 is 0volts. I am not sure what to do now as I have been charged for the repair but back to square one as I thought it was the ecu faulty. It could be as I have removed the alarm and as far as i can see i have enabled the coils and starter but still not spark. I await my ecu and will have to start again investigating. Vinny
Vinny, with the ECU unplugged, test for a short between pin 14 on the loom and ground. The ECU might be able to tolerate shorts and not be damaged if the 5V output sees a low resistance. If you do find a short then unplug each 5V sensor in turn (coolant temp, timing, air temp, atmos pressure, TPS) to see if it lifts. Also check the test socket near the ECU as the 5V goes there too.
Are you sure Pete? it is not colored black? I have to print off the wiring diagram again. I did try as one of the methods to unplug all the items tps, coil, injectors etc and see if it affected the ECU. Once I get the ECU back I will have another look. Thanks for your help
A long shot but on my wife's Panda, I fixed an apparent ECU fault by spraying the ECU and connector contacts with liads of contact cleaner and doing lots of "wiggling". The ECU showed up as faulty on diagnostics when fitted to the car but would not have done if tested independently. Worth a try perhaps
I removed the gubbins from my datatool veto ducati alarm on my 916. I recall looping two contacts inside the alarm. I followed instructions on youtube and it has been great since. I only had one fob and it was falling to bits and I couldnt program another, so I junked it. Essentially, the alarm is still there on bike but the entire internals have been removed and two small loop wires placed inside on the connectors. I can photo the inside if interested and if i remember.
It could be an active ground, i.e. pulled down by the ECU. There'd be a reason but can't think of one right now.
Sometimes it pays to read, read and double check... My mate baldrick suggested it was the CPS. I had tested it and had 680 ohms at the two terminals although its a three terminal type. I thought it was okay as the manual seemed to confirm this. On checking the bike i have a 3pin and the manual has a two pin. Oh dear. I carried out a check of the internet and it seems that it should be tested with a battery or 9volt battery. I am testing it and think this could be the issue as i am not able to see a voltage drop when placing the cps near a metal object. Its a bit difficult with out wires on clips etc. connecting etc. Any one tested one of these using a battery? 9volt etc?
It's just a coil around a magnet, with a grounded shield around the 2 wires to the coil (because it's a low-level analogue signal that needs protecting). When a piece of steel moves rapidly against/away from/past it, a voltage spike appears across the coil (changing magnetic field inducing current in the inductance and all that). Best way to test it is with an oscilloscope, but failing that, a measurement of the coils's resistance is a good start. You should only see a few hundred ohms across two coil pins. Other combos should be open circuit. You could try hooking it to the audio input on a pc card and capturing the signal. Never tried it myself.
Thanks all for your help. So today I had another go with lots of reading, youtube search on the cps Magneti morelli sen813. Looking on the casing of the sensor i found it has positive negative and Screen this is with the single tab on top of the plastic junction. Put the ecu back on and only 2volts at pins 1 and 3 but this is positive and screen. I guess i should have 5volts at pin one positive and 2 negative first? with the bike cranking over then i should have power at pin 3 and earth of the bike? I have tried previously with a 9 volt battery and looking online it seems as PeteW the proper way is with a oscillator that i do not have or led possibly. I had another go at the wiring and looking at what i had written previously. I noticed that i mentioned it was only 2volts at the cps. This does not seem right as the right voltage should be 5volts. I carried out disconnecting items but then tested pin 28 which in the wiring diagram is from the ECU and this is the same voltage?? It seems then that the ECU is supplying only 2 volts to the CPS. I wonder if this is the issue with the Crank Position Sensor. If it has only 2volts it will only give 2volts instead of 5 volts? I wonder if the ECU is at fault but bluestreak tested the ECU and passed it on all aspects? Anyone have any suggestions for tests or what to do next? at a road block Vinny....
The crank sensor doesn't need a supply voltage to work, it's an inductive device like a guitar pickup. Wave a piece of metal at it and it creates a voltage pulse. Measure its resistance across the +ve and -ve pins. If it is not within spec buy a new one. It is a Magneti Marelli SEN8D-3 or equivalent.
Thanks Derek, mine is a three pin version not the two pin. Its the IAW 16 ECU. I am going to speak to the head technician for the ECU repair and see if they have missed something or where the 2volts is coming from. Vinny
Yes, I know it's the 3 pin version. Here is the spec sheet that covers all of the SEN series sensors.
Thanks all for your help so far although I think i must have missed something or need to eliminate some items? My friend lent me 3 CPS sensors which were off a Moto Guzzi but are the exact same spec 3pin. I tried each one, turned it over and no spark. I checked the gap and reduced it to near 0.6mm. Tried again but no success. I am now thinking that its not the sensor and that when I removed the alarm there are additional wires? or that Some thing else in the chain is faulty? I tested the coils? Ignition switch? TPS? Pressure sensor? Temp Sensors? Vinny
I am wondering what to do now... I bought a new CPS and have no spark. I had the ECU tested and it passed as okay but still with no spark. I can only assume that removing the alarm has made a difference? It has been so long off the road, I am not sure how to go forward? Anyone suggest how I can look for a fault with no spark? Looking at the past checks I have carried out. I am going to double check again step by step... Vinny
