Hi everybody. I'm putting my 889 Panigale away for winter as I only use it for spring/summer track days. I've been advised by an ex-racer and local bike garage owner to give my baby a bit of extra help and longevity with some correct winter storage. His advice I'm unsure about is: 1. Top up the sump to the brim so its full with cheap oil (obviously not turning it over in this state) Then next season do an oil change and filter to spec. 2. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel. Obviously, the internet was full of advice but nowhere else did I see this advice "Top up the sump to the brim so its full with cheap oil" "Do an oil change before storage" seemed to be the consensus on the internet. I rang my local Ducati dealer and spoke to their service department. They told me to do nothing, and not trouble myself. Don't need to do an oil change. It's kind of ready for a change in my mind as its done 4 track days, but I know this comment itself will divide opinion. What should I do: A: Fill oil to top B: Oil change C: Nothing Thanks for any input. Rick
The oil change bit is normal but never heard of brimming the oil right up before. I was told also by our works race bike team mechanic, unload the suspension with paddock / engine stands to keep the tires off the ground
The idea behind the briming the oil is to remove any moisture and keep all components fully submerged in oil to prevent corrosion New oil - not old oil as it has no acids in it from breaking down in use. My only concern with the advise is the cheap oil... not because it wont do the corrosion protection job - but that you leave some behind for next year... But if you do a full drain and filter including any oil coolers etc.. you should be OK... Me - If I was going to the trouble of doing it - I would also fill with normal oil that i use.. new filter.. then come time to use it - just drain some out to the correct level. But me personally - just on a battery tender... then once a month - start it and run it for 20 to 30 minutes to reach full temps and dry out any moisture and also recoat all surfaces with fresh oil... but others do nothing.
I put mine in a winter cocooon, starting with a thin plastic sheet/membrane, then covered with fleece blankets and a small dehumidifier underneath. The main enemy is condensation. I fill the fuel tank to minimise condensation there and the dehumidifier keeps the bike and surrounding air warmer and drier than its surroundings, so condensation in the engine etc should be much reduced if not completely eliminated.
Unless there's snow and ice on the roads I ride all year round good coating of acf50 keep the bike clean and recoat regular you don't have problems with stale fuel or flat batteries
Running it every month is a bit of a hassle for me because of the storage location, ill be removing the battery and looking after that at home. Not getting all the cheap oil out was my concern. I'm also not sure about the logic of brimming the oil to cover everything as doing this will not get to the highest parts of the engine?
I wouldn’t brim the oil as to do a full oil drain you need to get the oil nice and hot or loads will remain. You’d have to drain as much as you can, fill will proper stuff, run to temp and then do a fresh change all over again.
Of course you do. I will not be brimming it with cheap oil. Thanks for that, seem obvious now! Think I'll do a fresh oil and filter change now (to usual level) then good to go next season. I like to change oil every 4 track days anyway, might as well do it now, in case this "acid in used oil thing" has any real effect.
Most of the advice above, I think, is BS. It is only for a few months for crying out loud. Of course it's up to you to decided how much hassle you want. Putting the bike on paddock stands to keep the tyres off the ground is sensible. So is looking after the battery. I would try to get out and run it up to temp as much as poss - or, at worst, just reconnect the battery and spin it over a few times. Filing it right up with oil is going to be a pain as you can't use the normal filler (not high enough).
I'd change thr oil to avoid acidic effect of old oil,(using cheap oil iis good for flushing thru the engine i wouldnt worry about the bit thats left when you drop it out in spring) I don't think you need to flush it or change it again in spring. Brimming the tank stops condensation on steel tanks not sure what happens to plastic tanks. I personally keep the battery indoors fully charged. If you seal the exhausts and inlets with engine cooling down then condensation won't reach the bores. Some people squirt a bit of oil down the bores for extra protect on. With the engine sealed you don't need to keep starting it up, just leave it till you need it. AC 50 everything else. Keeping the tyres off cold concrete is a Good idea. Cheers TB
Change your oil. Put your bike in the lounge where it will be warm and dry. You can also polish it and meddle with it whenever you like as well as smiling each time you glance across the room.
Mine sat outside, under a dubiously waterproof cover for 6+ years, not being used or started up. None of the suggested things above were done. The battery wasn’t on a trickle charger and the fuel tank had about 3-4 litres in it. I changed the oil put in new fuel (with the old shit) removed the rocker covers and spark plugs, squirted oil in, replaced same, and pressed the start button. She fired up and has been great ever since. Don’t sweat it so much. Keep the battery charged and turn her over regularly and she’ll be grand.
A lot depends on the bike and how & where it stored As Old Rider says "The main enemy is condensation". if its warm and dry an oil change and fuel stabiliser (some drain the tank ) would be fine I cover plug the end of the can with a woollen sock to keep the moisture out ( yes and to keep it warm LOL) What I have stopped doing is running the bike once a month , this was after I fitted a clutch window cover to one of my other bikes , I could not believe how much "mayo " emulsification there was inside the engine and it takes a long long time to burn off the moisture . also I found it soot's the plugs Slightly off subject On my Carb'd bike its got no air box just stacks and K&N foam filters , I pop the filters off squirt a bit of oil down the open carbs to coat the valves and block off the inlets and exhaust with cloth You can brim the engine but use the same type of oil not something I do but I do this on my spare engine as well oiling the bores Not for me , but others do nothing just fire it up and away they go do what you feel is right but just remember to recommission your bike after the winter break
Speaking about carbs. When you are laying the bike up for more than 3 or 4 weeks, turn off the fuel to the carbs then start the engine and run it until it stops. Modern fuel left to evaporate in the float bowls will turn into a horrible gum that can block the pilot jets and require stripping the carbs to clear.
I agree with you that filling the oil has no affect on the top part of the engine. I used use my 916 every couple of weeks and it was reliable. Now after standing still for a long time its playing dead. I did have a leak in the tank with water damage but this was over a ten year period. I would agree with the advice previous about trying to keep it in a pleasant environment and this will minimize condensation in the engine and tank.
Ok, so what about if your only option was a leaky wooden shed and the winter is going to be snowy and extremely cold (-20°C)? Put socks over the can outlets, blanket and tarp over bike?
Turn any location with power into a superb bike storage area ....... with air con...... I might know a guy...
Cheaper to let the bike rot... than the cost of the AC system and the running costs to heat a leaking shed.... Better to bring the bike in the house...
