Sprag Clutch Removal From Flywheel

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by RickyX, Nov 8, 2018.

  1. Ok, so got the flywheel off...
    Manual says “insert two of the bolts just removed...to remove the flange and the starter clutch from the flywheel”....what now? Bash the bolts from this side to push the flange out the other side?
    @PeterT and @bootsam and @Chris recently did this I believe.
    Don’t want to force anything!

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  2. Yes, you have it right, I started off with short caphead screws but obviously engaging all the thread in the flange before carefully hitting with hide mallet looking for movement on the other side as you increase the intensity of the blows! Then as soon as you see movement obviously swap over to the opposing screw on the other side and displace by the same amount blah blah teaching you how to suck eclairs.
     
    #2 Chris, Nov 8, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
  3. So...support the outside of the flywheel and then tap the bolts so that the starter clutch flange is pushed out the other side?
    Feels pretty tight...big hammer??
     
  4. Yes, I used 2 x 4 to support
     
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  5. That was easy enough...just wanted to be sure on amount of force required!

    Classic wear on mi’ flanges!

    Looks like a trip to P&H with 400 notes stuffed in my pocket :upyeah::joy:

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  6. Glad you got it off
    Is that in the 749R
     
  7. Ouch Ricky, £362 inc vat from Snells, arrived next day too. Both flange (ooer) and starter gear are knackered. Apparently the sprags like a c&s kit. You change the lot at same time.

    I have a puller tool that I used on flange as I recall. Tight fecker intit.
     
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  8. Big R! That’s both clutches that will have been replaced this year! Nigh on a grand! Yay!
     
  9. Aye, indeed, that flange is indeed tight....jus’ how I like ‘em...!

    Bought myself my own massive tool to hold the flywheel...even though you kindly offered to let me handle yours...

    Will be on the scrounge for a torque wrench that’ll go up to 330Nm once I get all the bits.
     
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  10. I may have wrench that goes to 330 (pretty sure i have) but I just used copious amounts of green high strength thread lock and the rattle gun.
     
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  11. nice trick is to mark end of shaft and corresponding nut to confirm you are close to tightening torque you had before undoing too late in this case
     
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  12. I believe I need a new nut anyway?
     
  13. You sure that’s all
     
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  14. I guess that is correct Ducati Service procedure, and would give you piece of mind - did you use a new nut on the clutch side?
     
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  15. have you checked if anyone has got a old nut available spare?:upyeah:;)
     
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  16. Watch out when refitting for the little shim washer sitting correctly
     
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  17. 1098 has a different washer/bearing/bush design to the old 916 one which was a complete bastard to fit as you never knew if it had slipped off or not.
    I will however be taking great care with this one too.
     
  18. I have a second hand one now....and a shagged sprag assembly too.
     
  19. No. They are for my “shelf of shame”.
     
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