righto, so two weekends ago I was on a 150km odd ride and leaving a cafe in the wop wops, the ign failed to come on. Having recently pulled the clocks off to clean them outside and in, I wiggled the plug on the back and next thing the ign came on and off I went. Last weekend, I went about 60km to another cafe and same again except no amount of wire wiggling would coax it into life. However it did light up by itself eventually and was good to go. When I got home it was the same and seems unlikely to be rideable until fixed. I found a thread on the american forum where someone opened up and cleaned their ign switch because they had the same symptoms so I was confidant this was it. I did open and clean the switch but it has made no diff and in fact wasn't that dirty. When you turn the key to on, there is a momentary flicker from the instrument panel lights, no needle sweep and a slight noise that sounds like a small stepper motor type noise. No headlight or fuel pump noise. So, I am at a loss at this point, I checked all the fuses and disconnected the batt for a while but no change. Is it possibly something to do with the transponder antenna? I tried my spare key plus the red key as well... Is there any type of reset procedure that is worth trying?
Are you sure it’s the clocks? As Monsters around that year suffered from the loom being tight around the headstock and then getting breaks in the wiring
I have no idea if it is the clocks or not? I am stumped at the moment. If I keep turning the key on and off it will probably eventually have ign where the lights all come on. No amount of wiggling anything has helped this so far...
It is the first I have heard of the headstock thing, I will have a checkover for that and see how we go. Interesting how it just gives a flicker each time tho...
I have the same model bike and I feel your pain! The main thing that I have learnt with Ducatis is to not assume that it is something complex and not basic. if it eventually goes after re-trying and re-trying the ignition, then I would think it unlikely to be a wiring fault because nothing has changed. Have you charged up the battery to make sure that it is giving plenty of voltage? Although you took the ignition apart to check, are you quite sure that it is not losing some voltage there? I was going to offer to come and help but then realised that you are in New Zealand! Bit far, I'm afraid.
I agree. It's probably something really simple and strongest candidates for me would be: Loose or oxidised battery or earth contacts. Oxidised contacts between fuses and fuseholders. Also, fuse blades not completely flat, causing poor contact. Sticky relay. Relays are electro-mechanical and can easily get corroded and sticky in the exposed environment of a motorcycle. Many people replace them regularly as a matter of course.
Thanks Perry, yep I am hoping it is something simple. For some reason I keep going back to the transponder antenna thing. If it does not detect a transponder key, do the lights stay on or do they just wink out like mine has been doing? Also, the batt has good charge and is quite new. Tomorrow, I am going to try unplugging the rectifier regulator as well as checking the wiring for the antenna and the main 30 a fuse on the battery terminal positive lead. When it started in the weekend it ran like a trooper, never missed a beat but when I got home it immediately glitched but still erratically fired up. Frustrating! However, find myself with two ducatis, the other one is a runner so life is still good!
That is a good suggestion Oldie re the relays. I will locate and check these as well. And thanks guys for your replies! Also, nobody has commented on the fact that my bin is in the pic of my bike, I am disappoint!
Good but if you haven't done so already, do check the battery and earth connections, especially as the battery has been teplaced recently, as well as fuse to fuseholders. An intact fuse is not necessarily transmitting current as light oxidation on the surfaces will inhibit electrical contact. Give the fuses, especially the higher amperage ones, a jolly good wiggle and preferably a spray with contact cleaner. Twisted fuse blades will make this worse as only the edges will be making contact with the fuseholders. They must be dead flat to make full contact. I would suggest you simply replace the relays and treat them as consumables, although you can get 'potted' versions which should be completely sealed.
I did notice the bin. I failed to comment on the subliminal message of a Monster next to a bin! I think that it is time to start using a meter to check voltages. With the immobiliser: I've never had an issue but it should blink orange to show that it is in action about once a second. When you turn on the ignition it goes solid orange for about 2 seconds before going off. I have never tried it with a correct key but wrong immob code but I think that the light may go red. Or you get an error code on the dash.
Never had to play with mine on the S4r but I did have a strange headlight relay problem on my S3 a while ago. That is where the headlamp would come on by itself with the ignition off and the keys not even in the same room. This would flatten the battery. Obviously, not the same issue as you have but faulty relays do strange things!
@laava I had a similar problem on my S4R a couple of years ago. In my case I had lifted the tank and then after dropping it back down I had failed to properly screw down the area around the key insert, cant think of the correct name for the part. Anyway, once properly tightened up no more starting problems.
My tuppence worth - relay with a yellow coloured top - did it on my M900 and ST4. The contacts will be dirty so sometimes it makes and sometimes it doesn't, when hot it is probably worse. You can test the relay and hear it click but it still doesn't allow the circuit to make!! Very frustrating but easy fix
OK so the transducer key is for the immobiliser? The orange light is flashing as normal I am getting no lights on dash, when I turn the key on there is a tiny momentary flash of the neutral, ecl, etc, so quick it is not at full brightness.
That fits perfectly with having a dodgy contact somewhere which can't sustain the load, so the contact breaks down. First port of call for me would be battery terminals.
If it was just a case of a faulty immobiliser not recognising the key, then I am pretty sure that you would not be getting the shit with the dash not coming on properly. Much more likely to be fuses or relays as mentioned by others above. Or contacts.
I have checked batt terminals but need to go further I guess and get my big clumsy builder hands in there! I am going to try dukesox suggestion first re tightening down the switch and antenna shroud. I hope he is right but fail to see why at this stage...been a lot of fail for me so far and my BMW snob mate is pissing himself at every turn of events!
If you’ve checked battery terminals, loosened them, cleaned them, wiggled them and retightened them, I’d go for fuses next. Just being intact does not mean they are passing current. Takes a couple of minutes too. Then earth, then relays. Have you tried with side stand up and with clutch in??
