Can anyone tell me the torque settings for the front disc bolts. I was told 25nm by a mate and promptly stripped a thread Thanks
Oops... Whenever I'm doing such stuff, I always 'test' the torque setting in a vice just to check it feels right. I go low at first and check it's working ok. I know the horse has bolted but a calibration might be a good idea or a new wrench. Also, it's an easy mistake to mix nm and ftlb settings. Ask me how I know....
Be careful on this. I recently swapped my disks over (can't remember what setting I used) and the stated setting felt far too strong (as @postmaster has unfortunately found). I did use a good Loctite.
When I refurbed my 999 I had a well knackered/bodged front disc hole left by the previous owner but helicoil fixed no dramas. I have an "old faithful" big arsed TW that is far more trustworthy than the 2 newer ones I've bought to do low settings. I've stripped threads waiting for the click. Now if it doesn't click when I think it should I move on and come back a little while later and it's amazing how often it will then click.
25N is too much even though it’s what’s in the manual. Go for about 20N with a touch of thread lock. It’s also a go idea to chase the threads out with a secondary tap before refitting bolts.
Thanks for all your input guys. A slightly longer bolt is finding some good grip ive taken it to 15nm with no issues so Im thinking put some locktite on and leave it at that. Theres 4 more bolts so should be OK????? TW is a new halfords one so Im gonna compare it with an old one.
I agree. But only if you have mechanical experience and feel. By the book torque settings are fine and dandy if you're torqueing into a steel thread but we should be mindful when tightening a bolt into aluminium, which is relatively soft.
i agree with mary, there is a mechanical feel to all bolt tightening, you shouldn't just plough on regardless just because the book says so..
An M8 thread should take 25nm with no problem (industry standard torque for 1d engagement is 25.8nm) if the thread is in good condition! And the bolt is long enough. I’d guess the thread was probably damaged and on its way out anyway. Helicoil repair with a minimum of 1.5d. Personally I’d go with a 2d if you’ve got enough material depth.
Many years go as an apprentice military vehicle fitter we were taught to calibrate our torque wrench especially if working on ally castings or ally armour. On the wall of the workshop was a torque setting device which was calibrated every 6 months. You would be amazed at the error some torque wrenches had and the cheap ones were not linear in their setting accuracy. I tested a £10 one from my own toolkit (this was in 1982) which as a mid priced Japanese make and it was over 30% out across the setting range. For those disc bolts it is important to torque in increments around the disc and to only torque with the thread lock in place and with a clean thread otherwise the threads will bind and strip. If you see a torque setting that requires a lubricant, locking agent or grease as many do on a Ducati, never tighten them without it again the thread will bind and strip. Feel is good (once you have the feel) and do not use a big socket wrench or worse a big torque wrench for tightening a small bolt or screw. In this instance a torque wrench with a low range (10-30Nm) is the safest bet. Every tool kit should have a low range and high range torque wrench, it is worth the expense and may save the cost by avoiding just one thread strip
True. But my experience and instinct will trump a Ducati manual settings. It's a sinking feeling when a bolt head snaps off or everything suddenly goes slack.... The sump plug torque setting on my new V4S is ridiculously low due to the ultra thin sump wall. Any ham fisted torqueing here and you're in the shit. Always go low first
You are bringing back terrible memories of that awful feeling to me! [QUOTE="The sump plug torque setting on my new V4S is ridiculously low due to the ultra thin sump wall. Any ham fisted torqueing here and you're in the shit. Always go low first [/QUOTE] I agree that this is a good example where I would want to use 'feel' rather than go right in. Although the book setting should be correct but the plug felt tight enough to me, then I would not go to the factory torque.
