On looking to replace my brake pads with some EBC HH, it looks as though both radial and pre radial calipers use the same pads. The calipers are so different I find this hard to believe. Can anyone confirm please? I know the rear pads are the same on all models as they use the same calipers.
I can confirm that the little 4 pad calliper pads are the same for axial and radial fitment. I used to have 4 pad axial on my 916 and have 4 pad radial on my 749R so I know they are identical pads.
I’m afraid I disagree with that. I once needed new pads for my 749R at a track day and could only find some that were marked S1000RR which appeared identical. They were too thick and dragged on the discs heavily. I used them on the day but replaced them immediately afterwards.
Excellent, many thanks. The callipers look so completely different it’s hard to believe they take the same pads, so thanks for the confirmation.
Maybe they have changed then, I have a set of EBC pads for a BMW in my 749r now and they are fine. Be careful out there folks, go with what you know.
Just did a little digging and this might explain them dragging @RickyX The BMW pads have a 4.5mm backing plate as well as being 1.6mm thicker on the linings. I think the backing plate was made that way to counter the chances of the pads falling out the back of the calliper when they get low. Not sure of the thickness of the 749 backing plate but the BMW set went in my callipers without dragging, probably more luck than judgement. Only used them as I got a couple of sets for nowt. If you can @Old rider I'd go for the proper pads if you can get them, no chance of them causing issues with drag then. I find the EBC pads are more than adequate, I run them on the road and on my race bike. Much cheaper than a set of Z04 too https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/motorcycle/bmw/s1000-rr-sport/2012-2014/31798 https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/motorcycle/ducati/749-r-radial-caliper/2004-2006/32258
Yes, have ordered the Ducati specific HH ones but at 30 quid a side as against 40 quid on the ebc direct site. Thanks for the help guys
@scrawnsenior I know exactly what you mean as the reason that I came to need some pads during a trackday was because one of my pads went PING! While braking into Graham Hill Bend at Brands, leaving me with no brakes at all!! The pad had worn down so much (my bad) that it got ejected from the caliper. Very scary indeed. I am now super cautious with my brake pad thickness monitoring! Lesson learned the hard way.
Pads arrived today. Front pads had a warning on the packaging not to fit them to the S1000RR. Fitted the rears, which took a bit longer than I expected because I had to work out that the calliper has to come off. Pretty straightforward otherwise. The old ones are Brembo. It will be interesting to spot any differences
Front pads next. Have taken them out and checked them a while ago, so the actual replacement should be simple enough but I checked out a youtube vid to see what to do about fluid in the reservoir. There are 8 pistons fed by one reservoir. When I shove them back in to accommodate the new pads, will that not give me a problem?? The video makes no mention of fluid at all.
Before pushing the pistons back, remove most of the brake fluid from the reservoir and cover it to avoid splashing fluid over the bike. Push the pistons back one at a time after giving them a clean to stop dirt getting in the seals. Keep an eye on the fluid level and remove a bit more if needed. When the new pads are in, top the reservoir back up. If you don't remove excess fluid and leave the cap on, you'll get hydraulic lock and won't be able to push the pistons back.
i open the reservoir, rap round with a cloth and keep an eye on it, it it gets to high either dip a clean cloth to soak some out or remove with a syringe. i use a few small blocks of wood to go between the pistons so when cleaning and pushing back in the caliper the other pistons don't come out more.
Brake cleaner and the wife's tooth brush. It's well messy, wear old clothes. I work on 2 opposite pistons at a time which is why i put the blocks of wood between the others to stop them moving. squeeze the lever to move the pistons out a little then scrub with cleaner and tooth brush, push them back in and repeat till they move smoothly. You'll find one moves easier then the other to start with. I find its best to leave one caliper on and do one side then put it back on with new pads then do the other. Whatever you do don't jack your bike up like he did!!!!!
