what a labour of love - without reading whole thread, have you had the generator crank casing off to check for overheating/burnt out wires and/or windings inside the casing?
here is a good start :- http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/11/charging-system-diagnosis-procedure.html
Chris Thanks I have seen his posts which are very good. I do have the mosfat rectifier though that i fitted instead of the standard one but will go through the checks...
Oh she is testing me .... had another go with a mechanic friend of mine the other day. Its been a while and i could not find my wiring diagram. We go to have a look and now the fuel pump is not being energized?? I can see in the notes it was working okay in the past. I have moved house but not sure that sitting around has made much difference? tried disconnecting all fuses, cleaned and replaced. checked the two fuses under the frame, both have 12volts either side of the fuse. Cleaned fuses. disconnected the 4 pin connector on the frame, cleaned contacts and replaced. Cleaned the ignition switch and reconnected. I can feel the relays clicking in and assume they are still good as tested okay. Tried the 4pins under the tank to the fuel pump and only one is 12volts the other three are 0volts? Anyone have ideas how to trace the voltage or if the only pin of 12volts is right at the fuel pump? Vinny
@vinnychoff , I removed my datatool veto from my 916 by removed internals and putting two loops in place. I am in Caterham and I have a spare ECU. If you need to borrow and test.
The 4 pins of the tank connector are:- 1. Brown/white - 12V while the fuel pump is on. ie at switch on for a 2 -3 seconds and while the engine is cranking or running. 2. Black - Ground for the fuel pump. 3. Light blue - 12v to the fuel sender (live all the time the ignition is on) 4. Blue/black - From sender to low fuel light (12 when fuel level is low) The brown/white wire comes straight from the fuel pump relay. As a test, if you bridge pins 30 and 87 of the relay connector the pump should run.
Bootsam thanks I would like to try either my ECU in another bike or try another ECU. If I could borrow your ECU that would help me eliminate the ECU. My email is vincenzo dot iaciofano at gmail. I have removed the datatool completely rather than place the loops though.
Knowing which loops I placed may give you a clue as to which wires do what. I can easily take a pic for you. Ive pm'd you too RE the ecu.
Boots thanks for helping me out today. In one way we know its not the ECU as it worked on your bike. Frustrating for me as the relays were okay at one time. Any how on the net now searching for some relays and will try again. Thanks Boots and all for your help. Hopefully it will start soon....
I've just had a similar problem with my 1098 I had just changed the reg for a mosfet one which clouded the issue but in the end had nothing to do with it. I put the diagnostics on it and it threw up faults on the CPS and coils. Changed completely Le and CPS and the relays no difference Measured volt drop accross battery when starter pressed and it went down to 10 new battery and it was the same, wouldn't start with a jump start. The volt drop affects the ECU Mine was simply the starting circuit, the starter motor and the sprag clutch. I changed them both but if I had to make a choice it would be the starter motor brushes first If I were you I would remove the starter and check the brushes. If the brushes are worn Ducati do a set and so do Electrex both about 30 quid
Thanks Higgy, I put a new starter motor and the engine was overhauled. Hopefully as I now have a way to eliminate parts that I have tested I can narrow it down to what is causing the issue. Its been a while and it probably does not help not running the bike. I covered over 40k in ten years and as I used it daily it never let me down. I have a blog going from the very beginning and this has to be the major issue once it has been parked up after the engine rebuild...once I get the relays I will be back to testing it again. Thanks for your suggestions it could have been the issue although both are brand new and turns the bike over quickly. Vinny
Thanks to Boots I can now eliminate items as he has kindly allowed me to try my bits on his. I bought brand new relays and have the pump noise although it is not starting. I assume at this point its the wiring loom as I removed the alarm and there was a positive supply to the alarm. I thought the alarm power was not to do with the bike wiring... Anyone successfully removed the alarm from a Ducati 916? I have the wirring diagram from the hand manual but not sure it is right for mine. Or I am thinking to put the alarm back on and copy Boots model. I would prefer to leave it off, the less wirring i have the better. Vinny
I have removed many alarms including 2 or 3 from 916's but have never had any of the issues you are having. Usually they break the starter circuit and the feed to the fuel pump relay. It is normally just a case of removing the alarm and reinstating the wiring.
Derek thanks, then there must be an issue some where else. I will have to back track and check again the other items....
Happy Christmas to all on the forum. I have started to have another look at the bike and try to back track also. The leads to the plugs were high resistant. Put some other leads on that measure about .6 ohms but no spark with the replacement leads. Interesting that when i first turned it over it went bang, probably some fuel in the head although i cant see the spark, even with spinning over no plugs in the cylinder. Single pop which gave me some confidence a spark was there. but Swapped with the new cps and no difference. Put a meter on the coil wires and when i turn the ignition on i get about 10.76 volts flash and then off?? should there be 12volts constant at the coil when i switch the ignition on? currently studying the workshop manual to see if i can find out why its not sparking. Vinny hoping father Christmas can sort out my 916....
Have you ever looked for a fault code?? I know it’s not the case with all Ducatis but for a 999, pressing the left button on the dash and holding it while you switch on the ignition will bring up any fault code. Maybe your bike has a similar system or maybe you can use an OBD reader?
The fuel pump relay may also run the coils, which may be why you see the voltage disappear. Try measuring the voltage at the coil connectors whilst cranking the engine. I had an issue with poor connections at the coils, which meant I had voltage but still no spark. Fixed by popping the terminals out of the connector plugs and tightening them so they grip the pins in the coils again.
