Not started my bike for a week ,so thought i would give it a whir just to keep its toe in the water, bike was sluggish to start but did start and i let it idle till i got 50 degrees showing on dash...turned it off and tried to start it again and it wouldnt start, battery is only showing 11.6 > 11.9 volts . Its been on a trickle charger since i bought it a month ago, and i;ve only had the chance to ride it a couple of times ,both times started ok, but today its significantly colder...i guess the battery is fooked, what do you knowledgeable peeps recommend for a replacement battery and is it a straightforward fit ?...
Sensible choice is a Yuasa bought from Halfords with your forum discount card. Just over 50 quid for the one for a 999
I fitted a set of of Mr exige,s battery cables to my 999 and it transformed it starting great edition to a new battery !
Thanks Chaps, Stock battery for 1198S is Yuasa YT12B-BS, will get one tomorrow...will be in touch with @Exige when i've restocked funds depleted by xmas!
Just fitted the yuasa YTX14-BS , its a bigger battery than was in and i had to remove the rubber battery mat and two rubber gromets at rear of battery box so it would fit....battery strap is holding it firmly in place but will removing the rubber bits affect vibration etc?...i'm guessing they were there for a reason.
Your Battery box was designed for the YTX14 Battery - looks like the Accountants got hold of it pre launch and downsized, they changed back to the YTX14 later as suggested above. Same part number box for all 848 / 1098 / 1198 bikes... Make sure you have No 21 heat shield fitted - it was also a later mod due to Reg Rec overheating - which is why these bikes are the most susceptible for Lithium fires...
New battery has been on trickler since fitted, disconnected charger and went to start it today and volts before starting were 12.7v and it started nicely, volts rose to 14.7v whilst running ,ran it up to temp and switched it off. Turned ignition back on to check voltage and it showed 12.7 but dropped over about the space of a couple of minutes to only 12.1v...i'm guessing this isnt normal ,i would have thought it should have held 12.7v for at least a couple of days....advice please?
The terminal voltage isn't a very good indicator of condition or capacity, hence a Green LED is just as good. A good battery tender and a decent battery drop tester* are all the tools you need for a reliable sealed battery. *Purchased another one of these for about £15 from flea bay the other day (I've no idea where the other one got to). Hi! I found this on eBay and thought you might like it! Check it out now! 6V &12V 100Amp Car Van Auto Battery Load Drop And Charging System Tester 452107 https://ebay.us/L4JmNI When doing a drop test.... Do it once only with a stop watch, after the battery has been disconnected/off from its charging source for at least an hour (preferably over night). Make sure you read the right scale and it stays in the Green (above 11.5v) for the given capacity for the allotted time, normally 10 seconds. You cannot make a second sensible test.... As the "Test" heats up the drop tester and battery, giving an inaccurate second result. Further the battery would have reduced capacity from the first test.
It will drop quite rapidly to high elevens and still be OK. We've an accurate digital volt meter on the van, always on. 4 channel recorder, 8 Cctv cameras, car cam, alarm system with two trackers. Battery will last 2 weeks before it would fail to start the van. Running 14.4 to 14.8v, when the van is first turned off 12.85, always under 12 when I go to start later that day..... I think the 11.2v means t won't start the van. If trackers cannot see a GPS or phone signal they can draw more current... noticed this as they can see through the metal frost protector.....
Yep...left on charge overnight, just been to check it again (off charger) and it's risen to 12.3v, I'm hopefully just being paranoid.
Are those the voltages on the dash when you turn the ignition on? IIRC you won't get an accurate reading as lights and all sorts are powered up with the ignition? Better to use a decent DVM directly on the battery. A battery drop tester sounds like a good idea as well.
Yes all voltage figures quoted above are taken from my dash, i've just ordered a drop tester as highlighted by @AirCon off the bay, although at the mo i'm not sure i'll know what to do with it, lectrics aint my strongest field!...seems like a useful tool to have in the garage tho.
