1000 Ducati Multistrada 1000ds Starting Issues

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Dukenoob, Mar 3, 2019.

  1. Hi all. l have a 2004 Multistrada and I can't get it to start. I bought it from a guy who stored it for about a year. It'll turn over but won't fire, I've put fresh fuel in, changed the plugs but it still won't fire. I can't locate an earth anywhere, found the ECU earth but no idea where the main earth is. I'm thinking the coil packs aren't grounding so not producing a spark. Any ideas?
     
  2. Are you getting a spark? Are the plugs wet when you have turned it over for a while?
     
  3. Is the fuel pump priming up when you turn the ignition on too?
     
  4. The earth wire is bolted to the frame down tube if I remember correctly, on the near side. It is a cause of non-starting as it can corrode and have poor contact. Easy enough to clean up.
    Often starting problems are due to a battery that's past its best, even with a good earth. It only takes a small percentage drop in storage capacity as big V twins pull a high amperage when starting. Try/borrow/jump a new battery and see if that works. A battery left for a year without trickle charging is a prime suspect.
     
  5. Hi, thanks for the replies, will definitely try looking for the earth down the tubular frame, it's definitely not bolted to the engine, that's what was throwing me. I've earthed the plugs and they do not spark, they plugs are dry but the fuel pump is priming, I've put fresh fuel in but I think it needs the initial speak to get the fuel flowing, I'm jumping the bike off my van battery as the battery is completely dead. I'm giving it some amp/h but it doesn't turn over very quickly, enough I think to get a spark but might need to investigate the starter motor.
     
  6. Oh in addition I'm getting the 11.2 & 34 error codes but from what I've been reading on the forum these shouldn't stop it from starting?
     
  7. 11.2 is a vertical coil error
    34.0 is a barometric pressure sensor error (can usually ignore this one as it normally clears itself).

    How recent is the coil/injector/pump relay? It's a cheap part so replace it.

    Check the wires that pass between the tank and vertical head for chaffing. Can cause short circuits.
     
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  8. Ok cool, will do. I only received the bike yesterday so it's a new bike to me. It's got service history since new (2004) it's had thousands spent on it looking at the receipts, it's corroded to hell thight. The left engine casing is just corrosion, no paint, the other side is ok, the paint job is still good and the frame is good, my aim is to restore it to its former glory. I've checked every sensor connection I can find. I'll take the front off and see what wires are hanging around. I swear the previous owner that stored it up has removed the earth, i really can't remember seeing anything bolted to the frame. Will double check tomorrow.
     
  9. Hi chrisw, Where is the relay you were talking about located?
     
  10. From memory the M/S earth is tucked behind the breather pipes at the front of the alternator cover. Not easy to see without moving pipes and maybe a couple of cables out of the way.
     
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  11. Ok, so the story so far. Checked the earth and cleaned it, checked all the connections and they are fine, it's still not sparking. I'm now beginning to think it's maybe the pickup? Stator? Or ECU? It's beginning to beat me into submission and I'm not going with out a fight. It's booked in on the 13th to get plugged in and see what the issue is but I'm really trying to fix it before then. Does anyone have any suggestions. I can think of anything else now. Many thanks all.
     
  12. You’ve probably already done most of them, but you need to check all the ignition related connectors and ancillaries. As you have mentioned, the crank position/timing sensor could be the culprit and might be worth replacing, someone hopefully will come up with a link as it’s the same as used on some Fiat cars. Even the on/off killswitch can cause this. There is a largish barrel shaped loom connector on the left hand side/ Front of the frame somewhere near the fuses, I have opened these to find green corrosion on the connectors before now.
     
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  13. Have you tried pulling the clutch in as you start it to make sure it’s not the side-stand/neutral/clutch safety system giving problems.
    Is the neutral light showing?
    Take all your fuses out and slide them in and out a few times to get rid of any slight oxidation that may be impairing proper contact.
    Taking the shim out from under the crank position sensor might help if it’s on its way out.
    If it’s something like a plug or coil, you’d expect it to run on one cylinder, so that’s less likely imho.
     
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  14. Cool, thanks for your inputs. I've done the fuses to death, they are all in good condition, clean and no breaks, I've tried with the stand up and down, clutch in and out, nothing worked. The shim might be a good idea, if I bought a new ECU do I need to code the keys? Also I can't find the pickup connection from the stator, it follows the frame then breaks off to all the sensors. I can find where the 3 yellow wires are. Was going to crank it over and see what voltage I'm getting. I've also noticed it doesn't turn over very quickly, I think the starter motor needs attention, I've had it turning over pretty quickly off 2 battery's but still no spark, was thinking the starter motor might be a leech robbing power from the bike and it's effecting the stator.
     
  15. Any alarm/immob fitted?
     
  16. My fugly starter was the same, it's almost as though just before starting, the bike had smoked a joint. Have a word with exi about battery cables when you get it running.
     
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  17. Are you checking both sparks?
    Swap coils over to see if fault goes with the coil.
     
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  18. Hi, I've checked all spark plugs and nothing, I've earthed them all against the frame/engine. The plugs are new so i don't think it'll be them (unlucky if it is). No alarm or aftermarket immobiliser (immobiliser is factory fitted). I'll test the CPS tomorrow, see if I get any ohms. If I don't then that's one of the potential culprits.
     
  19. Taking the shim (if you have one) out from under the cps will reduce the air gap and is very simple to do. The shim is held in place by the bolt that holds the cps in. Just remove the bolt, slip the shim out, put the bolt back and tighten up. If the cps is on the way out but not dead, the reduced air gap is likely to get it functioning again.
    As I understand it, if you have a cps, you won’t have pick ups, as the cps gives the cpu the information it needs for both ignition and fuel timing.
     
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  20. Check the air gap first.
    Blindly removing the shim could put the sensor in contact with the timing gear and damage the pick-up face.
     
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