I've got round to fitting the Mosfet regulator to the 1098R today. As I was a complete novice as to doing this conversion, I've decided to post this, in case it's useful to others doing the same. Time - Approx 2 hours Parts - Mosfet regulator. I got this 2nd hand from a Ducati breaker for about £40. It's a part common with a load of bikes that Ducati make and fitted as std to the LiPo equipped Panigale R. Triumph conversion lead. About £28 from eBay, but I believe it's quite a bit cheaper from a dealer. Bikesport Developments RHS regulator conversion bracket, £100 (optional if you want to move the reg away from the exhaust). The original regulator is just above the exhaust and I imagine there's a lot of heat in the area. In fact, the heat shield on my bike has bubbled up as it's close to the 70mm system. This comes with extension leads and bolts / spacers. So, here we go......... Select your favourite 848, 1098, 1198. Fairings and belly pan off. Disconnect the battery negative cables. Remove the ECU (2 bolts). I have read that people remove the battery box. I didn't need to. Remove the regulator located behind the ECU (2 bolts) My 2 regulator electrical connectors showed no signs of heat damage, so I could proceed. If yours do, rectify them. (no pun intended) Before fitting the regulator to the Bikesprt Developments bracket I had to modify it to accept the Mosfet regulator. The bracket is manufactured for the original regulator, which has fixing centres of 80mm. The Mosfet unit has 70mm centres, so I had to drill an additional hole on the bracket. Fit the bracket and regulator the the RHS horizontal cam belt cover. Remove the 3 corresponding bolts from the cover and fit with the replacement bolts and spacers from the BS kit. There was nothing in the kit which said where to route the cables to link with the loom on the LHS of the bike, but everything lent itself well to going under the horizontal cyl adjacent to the starter motor. Difficult to tell in this pic, but I had to cut into the tape on the ECU loom to pull the original regulator connector backwards slightly to allow it to join the new wiring. Then taped the loom back up. Refit the ECU. Ensure to connect the earth cable (C) to the RHS bolt of the ECU. The bike will not run without it, it's hidden behind the loom and easy to miss. Cable tie everything back up. Refit the bodywork to your favourite 848, 1098, 1198. The regulator looks to be in a nice cool place once the bodywork is refitted. Employ your original regulator as a paperweight.
Nope, the wires in the kit from Bikesport Developments are quite thin. A lot thinner than the ones on the Triumph loom.
Tbh, when you look at the wiring on the Triumph loom, you could run the power from a small nuclear reactor through them.
Do you know the wattage of the 1098 generator set? Say 400 Watts, that's 133W per cable (assuming three phase), so 11Amps.... 14 awg wire should be ok... or if you are European then 1 to 1.5mm should be fine for the copper part of the cable... thicker for stranded.
Ahem you mean 9.6 amps assuming that the generator is outing 13.8 volts. Or if higher then lower. One spark to another old bean. 1.0mm stranded tri rated is 10A 1.5 from memory was around 14A
Circa, stator will output up to 20V ac PP.... The ratings vary depending on location and insulation type....and on a Ducati..... I'd down rate all of those.
Started the bike and ran it today. I left it running for about 20 mins and the regulator never got more than slightly warm. Dash voltage was 12.4v with the engine off. Voltage rose to 13.6v at idle and 13.8v when revved.
An update on this. Used the bike for about 200 miles today with no issues. Bike’s working fine, charging and the reg stays only luke warm
The Mosfet type of regulator shown in the 1st post. They are standard on most newer Ducatis. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-M...736234?hash=item3d916b57ea:g:Q-gAAOSwYVFdVpBW There have been some reports of bikes catching fire without a charging system modification. @Exige will be along soon to explain.
In layman's terms, if the earlier type of rectified failed, the output of the alternator went straight into the battery. The later type fails to ground so is much better for the current generation of batteries. Andy
