I have a 1098 with termis & ECU.... its perfect and I love it very much However the bad news is I'm a car nut as well and Im building a car with a bike engine.. so Ive decided to do something different and fit a 1098 engine. I've managed to get hold of 2 engines one complete & running and another that spun a rod bearing (the usual) and is stripped down. Now to register the car I need to fully rebuild the 1098 engine so I plan to fit forged pistons etc and make my own exhaust.... what internal mods can be done to add reliability and or power, and what can I expect without going mad? Ive seen some old posts were 106mm pistons were fitted with the 1098 heads with claims that it would see more power than the 1198 engine despite not having the longer stroke crank? All advice and recommendations would be welcome. Oh and yes the car will be red
I can't answer your question regarding the engine build but what has always intrigued me with this kind of build is the oil supply, does the engine need any special oil delivery to prevent surge in corners, a bike can't suffer surge because of the lean angle always pushing oil into the bottom of the sump. Just curious. Steve
Car will definitely put more strain on the engine although it will be geared down significantly for acceleration which also results in less strain. Its going to be capri shape, I made moulds and have carbon bodywork... I plan to build it around 400kgs wet!
Its a good point that has been carefully considered... however surge happens also in acceleration and braking, plus while accelerating a bike will wheelie causing potentially massive surge My plan is to extend the sump below existing as I have room.... mist BEC can't do this and end up with a dry sump setup.
The sump will have been designed to take the forces of ecceleration and the odd wheelie, side forces will be different, you seem to have it covered though, great project. Good luck. Steve
Most other bike engine cars that I have worked on are the Fireblade/Busa/Blackbird Caterhams and oil supply was a major issue given the 'G' forces that light/Track day cars give, all the instalations I gave advice on where all dry sumped because of this issue, most engines ate cltches because you are shifting a lot more weight and the amount of revs needed to move the weight with such tiny flywheels meant the engines hated traffic and temperature issues became evident.
which is why I want to use something different... one big issue most BEC have is height of the engine as the Bike engines are usually much to tall to fit under a bonnet... Im locating mine in the rear hence i can fit a decent sized sump with baffles etc under the engine. Im also going to be running a double gearbox arrangement instead of a Diff, so no additional losses BUT an extra 6 final drives to choose from. Also most BEC are 500kgs+... Im trying to get mine down to 400kgs and i have a few significant weight saving things Im going to do. This is just a fun project, I have road cars with higher power to weight than my 1098 so its not all about performance, or usability, more about the journey and building a road legal unique track car from scratch.
