The ST4s and ST4 have different wiring. The ST4 has no clutch switch only a side stand switch which cuts the safety relay removing power from the starter switch, the fuel pump relay and the ECU.
Ok changed the fuel filter and hoses, put a gallon of fuel back in! Checked for sparks at front and rear cylinders and they have nice sparks! Removed the air filter to have a look if the injectors where injecting and I did see fuel squirt however still no go!! I have changed the relays around and for new and still no go! I can’t get Jpdiag to get further than dtc so I can not clear the codes I am completely stumped????
Just got Jpdiag to stay on side stand switch works ok so does the kill switch Injectors ok battery is only showing 12.3v where my oximser was showing 12.7v Going to be completely honest I didn’t take the plug out I used a spar I had which was iridium! Which should I go for as they will be due in Septemberso might as well sort them now! Either way I had life!! She fired up! I think I may have had a blocked injector as the noise they made whilst testing seemed to change after s few goes! I popped more fuel in to make sure it wasn’t low now (when it stopped I had a full tank) So not 100% sure why it wouldnt start, there are no errors
That's great you got it started. Perhaps with a fuel line breaking down and an old fuel filter it's possible something got through to the injectors, I suppose. I would suggest now that it's running you check the voltage across the battery terminals with it running (idle, higher engine speed) with the headlights on. I personally don't like battery tenders (due to a bad experience with an old Halfords trickle charger that wasn't intelligent and so boiled a battery dry). Also, if your bike has an Odyssey or similar battery, an Optimate or Optimiser won't charge the battery at all. Strange one, and might not help, but with the ST4s immobiliser system you have 10-15 seconds between turning on the ignition and starting the bike - otherwise the immobiliser will kick in and you can crank for days and not get it to start. This happens with the immo box plugged in or not!
This is in fact a function of the ECU, designed to save power if the ignition is left on and the bike isn't running.
Also, the ECU switches off if the voltage drops below a certain level, something like 10.5V. So if the battery isn't the full shilling you might have starting problems because the voltage is dropping below the cut off threshold.
as the bike was in bits last night and the Mrs was getting a little upset I had been in the garage for around 4 hours, the bike has stayed in pieces, I will do a re start tonight to do the voltage whilst running before I put it all back together again! By the way I absolutely love the induction note with no air cleaner!!
I have done the multimeter test and at the battery there is a steady 14v from idle through to 5k revs ( didn’t want to go higher due upsetting the neighbours) lights on it goes up slightly but we are talking 0.2v so the regulator rectifier seems sound!
Ok next pain in the arse!! Fuel leak! But only on the side stand? It pisses out on the side stand but doesn’t seem to on the centre stand! Surely it can’t be the flange seal?
I can think of 3 common causes of leaks from the tank. 1. Pump flange - but being at the top of the tank would leak all the time. 2. Stress crack at hinge point. This too would probably leak all the time but may be worse if the bike is on the stand depending on how much fuel is in it, so worth checking. 3. One of the 2 rubber hoses in the tank has become detached or has a hole in it. One is for the breather and one is for the filler drain, both connect between the base of the tank and the filler assembly. If one has become detached at the filler or has a hole near the filler end then fuel could leak out when the bike is on the side stand or if the tank is full.
There was 2/3’s of a tank of fuel in it but there is practically nothing left looks like the tank is off again tonight!
