So following on from the intermittent starting problems I’ve described in my other thread https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/its-going-or-maybe-not.41167/page-5 I decided to fit a shiny new relay to the bike. Net result? Bike won’t start. Now as I’ve described before I’ve checked the starter switch and it is all ok. I’ve checked the continuity from the switch down to the wee white plug and that’s all ok too. Voltage across the terminals in the wee plug when the starter is pressed is about 0.6V which does look a touch on the low side. Have tested both relays with a battery and both function fine. Really am stuck. HELP!!!!
The starter relay needs a 12v approx potential difference across its coil terminals to operate. So thats 12v approx from the starter button And 0v on the other side You can test both, is there 12v coming feom the switch, and is the other contact earthed Your reading of 0.6v indicates perhaps a bad earth connection? Hth Steve
So earth behind the reg/rec looked in rubbish condition, pulled all that off and cleaned everything up. Been through the loom checking and cleaning connections. Not had the chance to try firing it up again but hopefully this does the trick. Are there any other earth points aside from the earths behind the reg/rec, the one on the left of the battery tray and the one on the rear right of the engine?
When the relays go 'off' they still operate with a clunk at 12V but the terminals inside are dirty giving a big voltage drop - this is what happened to me twice (M900 main ignition and ST4 sidestand safety). If you can link the relay out completely to test it will confirm. 0.6V sounds like dirty connections either in relay or elsewhere as you've found
Well cleaned and refitted all of the earths, connected everything back up and... ...nothing, absolutely nothing. As far as I've been able to test all of the earths have pretty low resistance so should be doing their job. When hitting the starter button voltage readings across the little white plug were highly variable, ranging from 1.0V and 2.6V with the occasional flash of 10V so figured the wiring to it could be the issue so started cutting it back. F**k me the wiring is all black and brittle and falling out of the insulation as I try to strip it! I'm back as far as the point that the wires enter the main loom sleeve and I still haven't found clean copper. Plan is to strip these wires out and replace with new and hopefully all will be well! Any advice on where to get a new white plug for connecting the new wires into the relay?
These two places are the best I've found for auto-electrical connectors https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components.html Good news is that you don't have to buy large quantities , bad news is that P&P will be about £4 , even for a £1 item
depending how bad your loom is, this could be another route - could be risky/ "out of the frying pan etc" but this one looks quite young:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-6...709513?hash=item215e66b2c9:g:bnAAAOSw3A9dHHhB
Another way (if you can't find the exact connector, and don't want to change the entire loom) could be to replace the solenoid for a similar type but with a flying lead connection - such as an Aprilia RSV1000 unit:- For example:-https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2541958134...MIvvWa0brI4wIVDNOyCh3y3gozEAkYBSABEgJIXPD_BwE Then you're free to put whatever Male/Female connectors on the loom and fly lead that you like, such as the AMP superseal:- https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/superseal-waterproof-connector-pair-2-way-1-5-series.html
In terms of getting the old crimped socket pins out of the original white connector is there a nack or is it just a case of persistent prodding and wiggling?
Yes , there is Pictures would help , but it's probably this .... There is usually a tiny little metal tag sticking out from the side of the crimped terminal . This locates it in the plastic shell so that it can't shift when connecting / disconnecting . (Have a look at a regular spade terminal and you'll probably see what I mean) If you can push it back inwards with something very slim ( eg. a jeweller's screwdriver ? ) the crimped terminal should just slide out . Other than that it's just the wiggling/coaxing game ..... or plain brute force , if it's going to get replaced anyway . I've just done the ones where the alternator output meets the regulator and the plastic shell was well roasted on two of the three terminals . I had to rip them out and replace everything .
I know how to get out the Tyco Econoseals see attached. Bottom line is there is usually a plastic tab that needs to me moved as oldtech says. But ket is which way !! up or down.
yes, nearly suggested similar but respected O.P. didn't want to go changing connectors - Derek on here has done similar to original. Hitachi alternative with flying lead has a male connector I think so not "plug and play".
So an update on this for everyone as I hate threads that go quiet without a solution, sorry for the delay but with work and other hobbies this bike has been thoroughly neglected. I worked the old wiring back up the loom until I got good copper and I spliced in a couple of new wires to the white connector on the solenoid. Did manage to get a new connector block but couldn't get the right pins so have just connected into the old pins for now. Can now confirm that this was the issue as both solenoids when connected in click on the button! Finished up all the wiring and the bike spins over perfectly but can't get it to start! Big fat spark and definitely getting fuel so I'm at a bit of a loss, the bike was running great before the starter switch issue. Perhaps it's just old fuel? Pulled the air filter off and it seemed to be spitting fuel up into the airbox when on choke. Back to the drawing board! Need to make a concerted effort to get this bike back on the road so that I can either enjoy the fruit of my labours or someone else can.
Yeah that’s the next course of action, hopefully getting some fresh fuel through will be the difference maker!
My old Monster refused to start after being sat for too long, a quick drain of the carb bowls brought it back Hopefully yo will be there
