Thanks. I agree with both you and bradders about preventing valve seizure. I suspected that it added little if any performance enhancement in the absence of further modifications.
Sorry only seen this now. was having some work done and got him to take the butterfly valve out and some gizmo was plug in to take the error of the dash
From what I have been able to determine on my 1260, the valve is only closed under specific conditions. During gentle acceleration it closes at 2900 rpm and opens at 3100 - 3200 rpm. Under moderate or hard acceleration it doesn't actually close at all. When I'm rolling along in traffic or through a slow zone, near neutral throttle, at 2900rpm the exhaust sound completely disappears and comes back just over 3k or with some throttle. This really bugs me for some reason. I can't see that it would affect performance as it's never closed during acceleration
It shuts 4-5k for noise iirc bit can’t remember if it’s graduated under that and how far before it’s wide open.
Hi bradders, took on board your suggestion as the infamous valve started playing up on my multi. Thanks. As I only found a dodgy weak compression spring, I added a tension one at the end and hooked the other end in one of the screws holding the exhaust cover. It may not last long, but gave me the time to find a more adequate spring. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-FCdGe_wFBK6oiTwolkrva_6QicBGeXB/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-7wk7-BEs1SL0mPoNLVivE8ML0LpcF1l/view?usp=drivesdk
Shite! It did not work! The spring was doing the job, but even though it has thrown the engine warning light an error. Had to do a 200 m trip trying to ignore that yellow-look-at-me light on the dash. Just kept a look on the engine oil temp and engine behaviour, as it was all ok, just hammered as usual. But now need to find someone to read the error to confirm it is the exhaust valve and reset for me. Any suggestions? Not a dealer, please. Would rather do at any independent garage.
One way would be refit and see if it cycles and clears (providing the valve isn't jammed!!) When I did the mod on my 2013 MTS, the spring wasn't strong enough, so I added a few small cable ties to the end to build the tension. Which fixed the issue and allowed the system to cycle, feel the tension, release it and clear.
I've done it. Valve is back and cycling well, but the warning light still on. Probably need an error reader and reset.
I was looking for a independent garage to reset the warning on the dash, gave a couple of calls and searches online. Found 'Motori di Marino' just over the corner for me. As the phone didn't answer, decided to pop in there to find out what they do. On arrival, met the man himself, Pietro, who regrettably said would not deal with any electronics on modern bikes. It was just not his business. But gave me plenty of suggestions and insisted to take me inside to see his shop and workshop. Opened all doors and dispensed nice attention talking to me. "what a beautiful job you do here!" I said. We spoke for some time about bikes, family (just about food was missing to complete a nice Italian talk) while I was dreaming how fan would be to ride one of those magnificent bikes. I finally said thanks for his time and attention, with a promise to come back more regularly, maybe one day to present myself with a classic. As soon as I got out on my bike, the infamous warning light on the dash cleared itself, for not returning since. Thought: Blimey, that's a good garage! https://www.dimarino.co.uk/
IIRC I am sure someone suggested it needs 3 cycles with no fault to clear? FWIW my DVT DSS light would come on at will!! And off. And on. And off....
Now I just need to find a way to keep that thing operating and avoid to come seized. TBH I didn't notice any changes when removed the cable and fitted the spring living it constantly open. Maybe just a bit of louder, no other changes. But this is the perception of a getting older and losing senses grumpy rider.
I just removed the valve on my Monster although it was already disabled by the ECU flash. Easier access and served as a practice run for the Multistrada. What John wrote is correct. The screws were somewhat altered and could not be unscrewed without stripping. Took the dremmel to it then drilled through and the flap just fell off. I would have preferred to remove those screws than leave portions of them in the shaft. How did you manage to remove them without striping them?
Following my latest surgery on the Monster, I opted to take the easy route for the Multistrada where I purchased a DUC-EE. $53.00USD incl shipping. I plan to "safety-wire" the valve open as a precaution.
Whilst I've seen the various pictures clarifying to a large extent what is needed to be able to deal with the persistent sticking exhaust valve issue, I could do with a little bit more information before I deal with this, on my 1260MTS. What type and strength of spring have people found that works the best and how long a section is usually needed for optimum results? The resistance offered by the standard spring set-up is pretty fierce, so I would imagine something not dissimilar to the centre stand spring would be appropriate! I can appreciate the use of a cable tie to hold the resistance, and fix the spring location, but what is the need for two ties on the wire activator? I like Pete 1950's suggestion about covering the set-up in a grease filled bag of some sort, to constrain further corrosion. Has anyone found any other ideas to make this set-up reasonably foolproof and before anyone says, cut the flap valve off/out, I don't wish to do this modification. Feedback beyond what has been posted to date would be really appreciated. Apologies in advance if I appear to be a bit dim...….. Cheers for now. TonyMN
I robbed a spring from a ram mount. The cable ties are simply to add enough tension as the spring was a little short. There’s nothing on the pipe, it’s all on the cable. HTH
