Just to continue my learning. After watching the video i posted a few weeks back. One of the things Griff mentioned is "Ride Height" - now, ive never mentioned anyone else say that...everyone has said "sag" so am i right in saying you need to get your ride height how you want, but within the parameters of sag? What im getting at is id rather the bike sit lower to the ground but level (ive got no ground clearance issues) so if the bike can run lower to the ground then it "should" be more stable mid corners..?
I can only go on what information I had for my 748R. In the RS workshop manual it gave a recommended ride height for long sweeping tracks and a second ride height for tight twisty tracks. It required adjusting the length of of the fork leg through the triple clamp measured from the underside of the lower triple clamp to the bottom of the upside down fork leg and adjusting the ride height rod on the rear shock. It also gave a setting if you used the steeper head angle. On my old ST4S, a Ducati WSBK technician told me to adjust the rear ride height so the back wheel was just off the ground when the bike was on the centre stand. Transformed the turn in for the better. Andy
Be like a chopper. Dan Kyle recommends lifting not lowering the bike, front and rear, as increased COG makes turning easier (may affect straight-line stability). Others, lifter rear and dropping front. If you drop the rear. Drop the front to the same level to keep balance imo
Yep - that was my plan...i was going to wind the rear down and then drop the forks - that was tomorrows job....gonna try the same on the zed too...the zed does have ground clearance issues but only with the stock system on....never had an issue with mine...
Be careful of radiator clearance and anything on the rear that may foul becuse the stroke is going to be closer to the ground (if that makes sense)
Yep...im 2 rings up on the forks so mine arent far down atall so ive got quite a bit of room to play with....as ive said before i almost need an afternoon with someone, some tools and for them to adjust it without telling me...i ride it, say what i think and keep changing setups then i find a setting thats good then, the suspension person tells me what i prefer based on the settings that work for me...sound weird..?
Well, thats the thing...it aint right - i know it isnt - a few years back it was good....im trying to find that setting again...
What you need is a day at a favourite road (as you don’t do trackdays) and pay someone like Paul goodhall to make the changes for you.
Rear shock is a ttx2 literally brand new, forks were serviced last year with Ohlins oil (but since that service its probably done about 150 miles) - when i say serviced, stripped to pieces, new oil seals and dust seals...not just an oil change...
@Sev free sag is going to be different for everyone - thats going to depend on how much preload is wound into the forks already? or am i wrong there....?
Only time I would have static different would be track, when I’d want it to sit higher as standard. Eg I used to run my 848 at 20mm road but would run 10-15mm track. Worth noting how many run less than 10mm then complain and puss about with stuff because the rear is skipping. Not realising they are always going to skip because it’s topping out!!
Heh... I think I'm gonna need to... 1. Be out with all my kit on and some tools and 2. A second pair of hands.... And that second set of hand will need knowledge of suspension..!
I’d start in the garage still with sag. Then you can take just a screwdriver/socket or whatever is needed to adjust the comp/reb. Ride a bit. Make one adjustment. Ride back. Adjust. Ride. Adjust. Ride back etc. A piece of advice I was given quite some time ago was make big changes in one direction, then the other, so you can feel the difference. Then set at factory standard and work 2 clicks at a time from there.
