Wow! What A Difference.

What you can’t see in the pics is the expensive laser projecting a horizontal marker on the exhaust tips. Scribe this with a marker, drop the wooden lever, scribe again and hey presto, static sag. Add rider (me), measure again, rider sag.

I have just done so, I may even get round to sending some money!

 

Yeah - its was other videos i saw but, i can see the value in this (if youre a loner like me!) - still requires understanding the concept of sag (which i still dont fully understand but, definately makes the job easier!)

 

SWMBO & one of her friends? Of your choosing? Hmm!

 

... with some fava beans??

 

Great

So how does that work when you sit on for rider sag if you’re on you’re own

 

It takes longer but you could set up the video part of your smartphone or use your go pro and aim it at the area for adjustment or , phone a friend?

 

I have done mine. Front is easy, rear less so, but if you can get a tie wrap around the shock it can be done

 

My laser is on a tripod and directed at the carbon of the exhaust cans. I make a mark with a dry marker at maximum extended height, drop the bike on to its suspension and make another mark where the laser is now aligned, sit on the bike, make a third mark, measure the difference between the three and with the standard equation calculate the sag and adjust accordingly (when finding missing C scanner)!

 

I wish mine cost 80€ or whatever you said. Mine was at least 10 times that, but try doing this without it!

 

And a nice Amarone?

 

How did it ride after these setting? If you weigh 90 kg (not sure if that is with gear or not), any standard 748/916/996/998 rear spring will be too soft (even a BP) and require a lot of pre-load to get the laden sag correct, resulting in no static sag (topping out). Too much pre-load is also undesirable as it uses a lot of the range of movement of the spring. Did they change springs for you and re-valve the shock? I'm surprised that the rear rebound is set so soft...
I'm 85kg without gear with a 998 BP and have more pre-load than I like, but the only way to get the rear under control is to have about 10 clicks on the rebound... so would be interested in your thoughts? Thanks!

 

@cl955, sorry, forgot to mention... bought a different ohlins rear shock, (DU1430) which had the right spring for my weight on for those settings.

But when I had the std ohlins shock on, after the first suspension setup, there was still a night and day difference.

Ian

 

It would appear so... the chart attached has been around for some time, but does make sense. Changing to these spring ratings will get you closer to the optimum laden / unladen settings.
It’s amazing how badly wrong Ducati seem to get their springs... I had a 1098s with the standard spring, so loads of preload and a harsh ride because the spring was too soft. Put a harder spring on and bingo! Hardly any preload, and magic carpet ride. Same with my 996 SPS and now thinking about changing the 998 BP to go harder (but this is borderline)

 

Sound like a couple of my bikes

 

Somewhere here is a suspension calculator that @bradders put up a link for. If you know the standard OEM spring specs, you could compare them to the suspension guide reccomendations.

I was recently told by a "suspension specialist" dealer that the springs fitted to my Monster forks were "way too soft". Since my weight is at the very low end of a solo rider I thought it was odd. It would mean all Italians were dwarfs! I used Bradders link and another two similar ones from google all of which said the springs were +/- the right ones. It seems the "suspension specialist" really wanted to sell me some springs or worse claim to have changed them when he really hadn't...