I have read very similar items about the radiators having to be oversized to actually make it work, I don’t want massive radiators in my house tho. @AirCon had a good idea of running two units. Some people use solar and pv on the roof to offest the costs but I can’t as the house is listed so the planners won’t allow stuff on the roof
2 x 2000 litre tanks. BOiler is ancient so I could probably cut down a bit with a new one but just looking for alternatives as for many people that live near me the costs of oil are ridiculous
What utility company you with and maybe you are on some real food tariff.. I can’t believe how cheap that is
My mate I was chatting to about this yesterday lives in a 4 bed semi and pays £100 a month. His is about 20 years old though. Numbers you are talking about are crazy. I don't know how people afford it.
It’s just the norm for old listed houses that you are not allowed to change much on due to planning. Our electric is overhead and shit also as in the wind or heavy rain it sparks itself to death the drains are a cess pit. Glamorous isn’t it lol
check the cop numbers,they are usually quoted at the optimum temps for the unit,real world is usually worse,not uncommon to get less kw out than you use. forget it for an old drafty house
i would look into pellet boilers if i was you,the more the house leaks,has no insulation the bigger the kw tariff they give you,like ash for cash. the tariffs have been cut and not as generous as the early adoptors but still a good option
OK. I'm going to give advice in public and be damned / ridiculed. CTFY....The bit in Red. Eurovent is the de facto EU tester and and most machines are rated by them (EU). You should be able to ascertain the output power and effective efficiency for a given temperature from the manufacturers data. Be aware that the published EER or COP changes for a given inside (rejected) and outside (absorbed) temperature. The lower the outside temperature the less heat can be extracted for a given work done. The machine has to work harder, use more power, so the's numbers drop. Further the lower your target inside temperature the higher the efficiency (for HEATING). E.g. air to air heating. Room target temperature of 19°C would need the refrigerant to reach 43°C to allow reasonable heat transfer. Room target temperature of 23°C would need the refigerant to reach 51°C to allow reasonable heat transfer. The outdoor compressor would not need to work so hard in the first example. COP or coefficient of performance are standardised figures to allow buyers to compare on a like for like across models or brands. It is impossible to get out less heat power than you put in, physics prevents this. Note most of the electricity used generates he and that in turn is added to that collected from outside. EeR is used in the same way, for comparisons. COP & EER COP – the ratio that measures the energy efficiency of the HEATING performance. EER – the ratio that measure the energy efficiency of the COOLING performance. Both ratios are determined by the amount of heating and cooling generated by the air conditioning compared with the 1kW of electricity it consumes. So, an air conditioner that generates 3.6kW of heating when using 1kW is say to have a COP of 3.6. Therefore the air conditioning that generates most heating out of 1kW is the most efficient, hence the higher the COP the more efficient is the air conditioning. Likewise, an air conditioner that generates 3.6kW of cooling when using 1kW is say to have an EER of 3.6. How to compare products Compare the COP and EER ratios of products with the same output to determine which are more energy efficient. For example, compare 2 air conditioning unit both with 3.5kW (12000 BTU) power output, the one with the higher COP and EER is more energy efficient.
