Maybe getting a new bike, and I'm wondering how to keep the bolt heads and various fitting free of oxidation? I'm a dry weather rider and tend to clean my bikes with dry soft cloths and polish, But, the bolts such as the front caliper to forks, rear wheel nut, sprocket nuts etc all seem to oxidise and look grubby quite quickly. Is there a better way to clean them, or something to protect them in the first place, that I'm not doing? Or, is it a case that they will all discolor no matter what I do?
But make sure they're "fit for purpose" - the wrong sort of bolt in critical places like caliper bolts, rear wheel nut etc could produce unwanted results...
Yes, fit for purpose unlike the OEM ones and don't over spec either as that can be detrimental too and cause a catastrophic failure
Yep- Ti or stainless.....watch as you ride your bike from the showroom and by the time you get home the caliper bolts will probably already be chalky by the next morning....
If you go down the route of bolt replacement check the markings on the bolt head, that show the strength, etc rating. If in doubt, don't - or get professional advice. Google 'bolt head markings' if you want to see what you need to understand. On the subject of anti-corrosion measures for new fasteners, I guess ACF50 or your chosen alternative would be a good place to start.
Boom - sounds weird but the crank seizing on mine was a bit of a god send....gave me the opportunity to get the thing coated correctly....
Yes - you used cerakote right? I saw recently that there are cerakote products which don't require any heat...
Yep - some stuff can be left to cure...my guy has a limited sized oven...swing arm is coming out of the zed very soon to get done...
I just thought that it will be less hassel if the bearings/ seals (etc) can be left in place. I'll make up my mine come January.
Engine cases flaking...get them Cerakoted professionally, fit and forget them. Bolts... choose the right tensile strength for the job and go with Ti or Stainless Steel and change out the cheap swiss cheese OEM ones. If you try and "maintain" the zinc plated garbage the factory fit, you will just end up chasing your tail.
Its one of those things....y'gotta pay but when you do a whole host of other things are cured/and improved.... Downside: 1. Crank siezes. 2. Cost (just shy of 3k) Upside: 1. Gearbox check: Condition: Perfect. 2. Known failure point: Main bearings: Replaced with ones that dont. 3. Opportunity to do a bit of light head work i otherwise wouldnt have got the chance to do: result: more power on the dyno (marginal but worth it for the few quid spent on tools) 4. Engine coated at crankcase level. 5. All seals and bearings renewed 6. Crank sent away for balancing: Result: smoother motor. Ive now alot more faith in the motor as i know exactly what went into the rebuild. Mines had i think abot 5 owners so any unknowns were removed at this point.
Dont use "MUC-OFF" when you wash the bike. I never used to suffer from the horrible furry fixings problem on any bike until i started to use the stuff. I dont use it any more and the problem has gone away. Its a very effective cleaner but with side effects.
SDOC100 still my weapon of choice....get some, neat brush it on some aly....Top yoke....wash it off...that should convice you of how good it is...
