frustrating stuff gws ^ no further thoughts since last suggestions for me - still uncertain about the aftermarket software "Reset TPS" implications but if it were me, I would just try and reverse whatever you did and if that means a "reflash" or another ECU then that's possibly the only route forward.
Just saw a vid of another st4s injecting. This thing is injecting like its trying to impregnate someone while mine is knowhere near that speed from what i can tell. is that a sign of clogged fuel filter and or whatever other crap can be wrong.
if your bike is "a keeper" then definitely worth persevering and changing filter if you have no idea when last done. also worth checking submersed hoses for splitting and perishing. Not sure this is what's stopping you starting though, does fuel pump sound ok when it primes? Have you tried making it run for longer squirting EasyStart? obviously you need to take care and don't spray too much if it's not running. I use WD40 or similar these days as the propellant is enough to help engine run if used conservatively and not as risky.
It would make sense to me if there is enough pressure in the fuel system to start the bike but not enough to keep it running, I have to say. So well worth trying Chris’s suggestion. It may be worth sourcing a secondhand fuel pump assembly. If it doesn’t do the trick, just sell it again for the same money.
this bike is a lifer. far too good to get rid of. I did do the belts a month or two before i put her into hibernation. so ama check that it hasn't jumped a tooth from all the violent misfiring. i also have a spare filter as well, i had always intended to do it but didn't cause laziness.
I was convinced that I had an immobiliser problem and changed both the ECU and the antenna, even the CPS. It turned out to be the fuel pump. I'm not saying it is the fuel pump but it could be.
it was defo an immo problem because when i swapped between different bin files one would fire and one wouldn't. but yes the fuel pump can also be fucked
Is it worth trying another ecu? Again, you can always sell it if it doesn’t help... Are you in touch with Chris W over this? I found him incredibly helpful.
ama try and get hold of another ecu to borrow and hopefully be able to test it out. if it works hey ho, if not, defo feels like a fuelling problem. ama pop the covers as well to take a look at the valve adjustment and recheck the timing belt. if the timing had jumped a tooth, wouldnt it of destroyed the engine by now the amount of times ive cranked it?
I think you should get away with one tooth jumped but an easy check to confirm the belts are on correct
aiye ill whack the covers open and start rotating. btw its always super hard to rotate the engine no matter what. i take spark plugs out, in any gear, its super hard
tbf its been like that forever. its never had an easy time rotating the engine. this also worried me last time i did the belts but it turns out to of made no difference.
She lives. The belts we're fine. Its possibly tps? So lemme explain what i did. I opened the throttle on slightly, and tried to start, and then kept opening it only slightly more and more till she started but when she started it sounded rough as fuck and then randomly started to rev herself like crazy so turned her off before she hit the rev limiter. also the fast start lever or whatever "choke" doesnt work what made it click is and someone can confirm or refute the logic is, is if the throttle is entirely shut, and the throttle body is completely shut, how does it get any air in to start? also she could be running on one cylinder
there is always some form of air bypass circuit in the throttle bodies if the butterflies are truly shut just to maintain the idle state.
Great news With closed throttle =there will be an air passage somewhere for idle - I'm not sure where but someone else will know
ill have to read up on brads guide and start implementing. also my throttle doesn't snap back when wide open so am guessing the cable atleast needs lubing
